I have been trying to find the source for water accumulating under the aft cabin bunk on the starboard side for the past 6 years - since I've owned the boat. I'm bugged by it partly because it is the only leak on the boat and partly because it is so persistent. The amount is not great. I have tightened all of the toerail bolts. Inspected the deck hardware bedding as much as possible without removing the hardware. If any other 35.5 owners have had a similer problem please respond with any suggestions?
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Water In Aft cabin
I had a similar leak on my 31' 1985. Turned out to be the motor exhaust. It was just a little amount and only when we used the motor. Best of luck!
I had a similar leak on my 31' 1985. Turned out to be the motor exhaust. It was just a little amount and only when we used the motor. Best of luck!
Cockpit shower
Pat, Is it fresh water or salted water? If fresh, check the cockpit shower, if it leaks just a bit, water will find it's way to the battery compartment below and run along the exhaust hose to the aft bunk. It could also be from rain water running along the balcony post (not sealed properly) and follow the same path.
Pat, Is it fresh water or salted water? If fresh, check the cockpit shower, if it leaks just a bit, water will find it's way to the battery compartment below and run along the exhaust hose to the aft bunk. It could also be from rain water running along the balcony post (not sealed properly) and follow the same path.
Another entry point
Another location there water can enter the rear cabin is from the hole that feeds the throttle and shifting cables, and any other electronic cables from the steering pedestal into the rear hatch area. An indication that you have a leak is that the area just inside the cockpit starboard rear locker is wet after a rain or a cockpit washdown. I found that the water enters through the hole because the calking around the cables has broken town and then it travel down the back wall in the aft cabin and since the inter hull shell in turned upward in migrates into the aft cabin under the cushions. The problem is easy and cheap to repair. Remove the removable floor section to the rear of the steering pedestal and dig out the calking from around the cables and entrance hole,then rebeding the cables where they enter the hole. Be sure to use only silicon calking since other calking materials will not adhere to the cables and the gelcoat. Oh by the way is you have some water migration in the forward cabin check the hole inside the anchor well where the cable for the running lights exit the inter pan.
Another location there water can enter the rear cabin is from the hole that feeds the throttle and shifting cables, and any other electronic cables from the steering pedestal into the rear hatch area. An indication that you have a leak is that the area just inside the cockpit starboard rear locker is wet after a rain or a cockpit washdown. I found that the water enters through the hole because the calking around the cables has broken town and then it travel down the back wall in the aft cabin and since the inter hull shell in turned upward in migrates into the aft cabin under the cushions. The problem is easy and cheap to repair. Remove the removable floor section to the rear of the steering pedestal and dig out the calking from around the cables and entrance hole,then rebeding the cables where they enter the hole. Be sure to use only silicon calking since other calking materials will not adhere to the cables and the gelcoat. Oh by the way is you have some water migration in the forward cabin check the hole inside the anchor well where the cable for the running lights exit the inter pan.
Bob's...
...right on with the hole in the pedestal floor pan. Had the exact same thing and had a devil of a time trying to find it. Rechaulking fixed it. In the forward cabin, I found a leak coming from the drain hole in the anchor locker. The inner pan is not properly sealed against the hull allowing water to drain into the space under the anchor locker and forward of the teak board in the V berth.
...right on with the hole in the pedestal floor pan. Had the exact same thing and had a devil of a time trying to find it. Rechaulking fixed it. In the forward cabin, I found a leak coming from the drain hole in the anchor locker. The inner pan is not properly sealed against the hull allowing water to drain into the space under the anchor locker and forward of the teak board in the V berth.
Aft cabin Leak
Thanks to all for the suggestions. The only one I hadn't checked is the throttle cable hole. I will recaulk it. Bob and Alan, what is the fix for the anchor locker leak? This is one I expect I will have to address in the future. In fact, a bit of a musty smell under the V-berth indicates I may have to address it sooner. Thanks, Pat
Thanks to all for the suggestions. The only one I hadn't checked is the throttle cable hole. I will recaulk it. Bob and Alan, what is the fix for the anchor locker leak? This is one I expect I will have to address in the future. In fact, a bit of a musty smell under the V-berth indicates I may have to address it sooner. Thanks, Pat
Pat
The V berth leak that I found originates in the anchor locker. As the water leaves through the drain hole in the bow, it passes through the anchor locker insert and then through the hull. If the insert is not properly sealed to the hull at the point of the drain hole, water can pass between the two and down the inside of the hull next to the fill hose of the water tank. If you remove the teak plate at the front of the V berth you will see the fill hose. Run a water hose into the anchor locker and watch for water leaks at the top of the fore peak. Upon close inspection of the drain hole you will see the separation between the two panels. By sealing the wall of the drain hole, no more water can enter the V berth(at least there).
The V berth leak that I found originates in the anchor locker. As the water leaves through the drain hole in the bow, it passes through the anchor locker insert and then through the hull. If the insert is not properly sealed to the hull at the point of the drain hole, water can pass between the two and down the inside of the hull next to the fill hose of the water tank. If you remove the teak plate at the front of the V berth you will see the fill hose. Run a water hose into the anchor locker and watch for water leaks at the top of the fore peak. Upon close inspection of the drain hole you will see the separation between the two panels. By sealing the wall of the drain hole, no more water can enter the V berth(at least there).
Foward Hole
To locate the cable hole that allows water to enter the forward V berth you can locate it in the rear of the anchor locker on the starboard side. It is used to pass the forward running lights cables through inter shell. It is right under the two furling lines pass-through. For some reason there was no calking installed and that allowed water entered the furling line pass-through, ran down the side of the anchor locker and into the wire pass-through. As Alan has mentioned the drain hole in the anchor, I also had to calk that one a few years ago both from the inside and outside so that should also be checked. This winter I am considering filling the two furling line holes since I have replaced that #$%^# furler with something that works all the time, and does not take a 400 pound gorilla to operate.
To locate the cable hole that allows water to enter the forward V berth you can locate it in the rear of the anchor locker on the starboard side. It is used to pass the forward running lights cables through inter shell. It is right under the two furling lines pass-through. For some reason there was no calking installed and that allowed water entered the furling line pass-through, ran down the side of the anchor locker and into the wire pass-through. As Alan has mentioned the drain hole in the anchor, I also had to calk that one a few years ago both from the inside and outside so that should also be checked. This winter I am considering filling the two furling line holes since I have replaced that #$%^# furler with something that works all the time, and does not take a 400 pound gorilla to operate.
Bob
You must have one of those continuous line furlers. Mine is a single line with only one deck hole. It appears that the electrical cable for the bow lights on my boat is on the port side just above the fill hole for the water tank. There is a small SS tube that runs down from the port side of the bow rail which carries the conduit. Which furler do you use that gives so much trouble? I'm using a ProFurl unit. Had it installed when I bought the boat. It works flawlessly with very little effort.
You must have one of those continuous line furlers. Mine is a single line with only one deck hole. It appears that the electrical cable for the bow lights on my boat is on the port side just above the fill hole for the water tank. There is a small SS tube that runs down from the port side of the bow rail which carries the conduit. Which furler do you use that gives so much trouble? I'm using a ProFurl unit. Had it installed when I bought the boat. It works flawlessly with very little effort.
Furler
Alen I guess that Hunter like all manufactures change methods and locations of cabling routes as the model years tick off which would account for yours being on the port side. I had a Hood 810LD which I disliked from the time I purchased the vessel. It was the continous line version that disliked to be furled in winds higher then 8 knots. It also was just a furler and you could not reef the sail and expect it hold that reef for any length of time. Since it was a continous line system finding someone to join the line was a problem until I learned how to do it. Last year I replaced it with a Shaffer 2100 and had it located above the deck. In order to mount it just above the deck and not 12" above the deck I had to modify the anchor hatch lid by cutting the foward section off and adding a hinge to that section of the lid. Now I do not have a problem furling or reefing the headsail and even my wife can do it without the use of a winch. I also now have a chance to see under the sail since it resides about 18" above the deck.
Alen I guess that Hunter like all manufactures change methods and locations of cabling routes as the model years tick off which would account for yours being on the port side. I had a Hood 810LD which I disliked from the time I purchased the vessel. It was the continous line version that disliked to be furled in winds higher then 8 knots. It also was just a furler and you could not reef the sail and expect it hold that reef for any length of time. Since it was a continous line system finding someone to join the line was a problem until I learned how to do it. Last year I replaced it with a Shaffer 2100 and had it located above the deck. In order to mount it just above the deck and not 12" above the deck I had to modify the anchor hatch lid by cutting the foward section off and adding a hinge to that section of the lid. Now I do not have a problem furling or reefing the headsail and even my wife can do it without the use of a winch. I also now have a chance to see under the sail since it resides about 18" above the deck.
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