I started replacing the cabin Halogen lights with LED ones thanks to the information that I received on this site from a previous post. I got the 12VDC 1156/T10 PCB LED Lamp with 36 leds on each board (see link). They are suppose to last a very long time so I decided to hard wire them in by cutting off the plug and soldering them to the existing boat wiring. I wouldn't say the the LED light gives as much light as the halogen but nearly. Also, the halogen light is soft yellow while the LED one is a brilliant white. There may be LED lights with a more yellowish light that would be better. I decided to replace the existing lights after getting a LINK 20 Battery monitor and going through the amp/hour usage exercise. I found the halogen lights in the cabin used 1.7 amps each and there are eight of them. If while cruising, I only used 4 of them for four hours a day that is 27 AMP hours a day. The only thing on board using more power is the refrigerator (which I decided I can live without when I cruise). The LED lights draw .12 AMPS which would give me less than 2 AMP hours per day. I have already ordered the Tricolor/Anchor light which should further reduce the drain on my batteries and the recharging capacity needed. Does anyone have any other ideas to cut down on AMP/hours?
- Status
I started replacing the cabin Halogen lights with LED ones thanks to the information that I received on this site from a previous post. I got the 12VDC 1156/T10 PCB LED Lamp with 36 leds on each board (see link). They are suppose to last a very long time so I decided to hard wire them in by cutting off the plug and soldering them to the existing boat wiring. I wouldn't say the the LED light gives as much light as the halogen but nearly. Also, the halogen light is soft yellow while the LED one is a brilliant white. There may be LED lights with a more yellowish light that would be better. I decided to replace the existing lights after getting a LINK 20 Battery monitor and going through the amp/hour usage exercise. I found the halogen lights in the cabin used 1.7 amps each and there are eight of them. If while cruising, I only used 4 of them for four hours a day that is 27 AMP hours a day. The only thing on board using more power is the refrigerator (which I decided I can live without when I cruise). The LED lights draw .12 AMPS which would give me less than 2 AMP hours per day. I have already ordered the Tricolor/Anchor light which should further reduce the drain on my batteries and the recharging capacity needed. Does anyone have any other ideas to cut down on AMP/hours?
? Energy Consumption
You don’t use refrigeration, have already reduced your cabin lighting load to < 2Ah/Day, and will switch your Anchor Light over to LED (about 2Ah/Nite). Where else are you actually consuming Electrical Energy?
You don’t use refrigeration, have already reduced your cabin lighting load to < 2Ah/Day, and will switch your Anchor Light over to LED (about 2Ah/Nite). Where else are you actually consuming Electrical Energy?
Whats the rest of the electrical install?
I sympathize with your desire to reduce electrical consumption to absolute minimum. The LED interior lights are a good (albeit expensive) addition. Have you changed to LED running and anchor lights? I replaced my 9" 12V TV/VCR, drawing about 8 amps with a 10" LCD flatscreen TV and separate DVD player that together draw about 4amps of 12V with better performance. I've also got a link monitor to help manage 12V, but these, I'm also at a loss how to reduce consumption at a reasonable price, and am considering more solar and towed generators to generate more. My OB powered Cat 27 has little ability to make "new power" mechanically, so I rely on things like solar power to generate more. Are you looking SOLEY to reduce consumption, or are you also thinking about how to GENERATE MORE?
I sympathize with your desire to reduce electrical consumption to absolute minimum. The LED interior lights are a good (albeit expensive) addition. Have you changed to LED running and anchor lights? I replaced my 9" 12V TV/VCR, drawing about 8 amps with a 10" LCD flatscreen TV and separate DVD player that together draw about 4amps of 12V with better performance. I've also got a link monitor to help manage 12V, but these, I'm also at a loss how to reduce consumption at a reasonable price, and am considering more solar and towed generators to generate more. My OB powered Cat 27 has little ability to make "new power" mechanically, so I rely on things like solar power to generate more. Are you looking SOLEY to reduce consumption, or are you also thinking about how to GENERATE MORE?
Whats the rest of the electrical install?
I sympathize with your desire to reduce electrical consumption to absolute minimum. The LED interior lights are a good (albeit expensive) addition. Have you changed to LED running and anchor lights? I replaced my 9" 12V TV/VCR, drawing about 8 amps with a 10" LCD flatscreen TV and separate DVD player that together draw about 4amps of 12V with better performance. I've also got a link monitor to help manage 12V, but these, I'm also at a loss how to reduce consumption at a reasonable price, and am considering more solar and towed generators to generate more. My OB powered Cat 27 has little ability to make "new power" mechanically, so I rely on things like solar power to generate more. Are you looking SOLEY to reduce consumption, or are you also thinking about how to GENERATE MORE?
I sympathize with your desire to reduce electrical consumption to absolute minimum. The LED interior lights are a good (albeit expensive) addition. Have you changed to LED running and anchor lights? I replaced my 9" 12V TV/VCR, drawing about 8 amps with a 10" LCD flatscreen TV and separate DVD player that together draw about 4amps of 12V with better performance. I've also got a link monitor to help manage 12V, but these, I'm also at a loss how to reduce consumption at a reasonable price, and am considering more solar and towed generators to generate more. My OB powered Cat 27 has little ability to make "new power" mechanically, so I rely on things like solar power to generate more. Are you looking SOLEY to reduce consumption, or are you also thinking about how to GENERATE MORE?
White LED
There is no real white light LED so far as I know of(because engineer still can't find a semiconductor material for LED which would emit light wave lenghth of the white light.) That's why the white LED now avaliable always more likes light-blue(a color by simulation) rather than the soft white we are used to.
There is no real white light LED so far as I know of(because engineer still can't find a semiconductor material for LED which would emit light wave lenghth of the white light.) That's why the white LED now avaliable always more likes light-blue(a color by simulation) rather than the soft white we are used to.
White LED
There is no real white light LED so far as I know of(because engineer still can't find a semiconductor material for LED which would emit light wave lenghth of the white light.) That's why the white LED now avaliable always more likes light-blue(a color by simulation) rather than the soft white we are used to.
There is no real white light LED so far as I know of(because engineer still can't find a semiconductor material for LED which would emit light wave lenghth of the white light.) That's why the white LED now avaliable always more likes light-blue(a color by simulation) rather than the soft white we are used to.
Are cheap LED clusters flaky?
Paul, I agree with Gord that it is hard to provide more information on saving Ahs without knowing what you are spending them on now. With regard to your SuperbrightLED link: we stocked up big time on their LEDs this season, both for "Rivendel II" and for our jungle and beach clinics in Vanuatu. Their prices are hard to beat. In fact, it costs now less to buy a 19-LED cluster with bajonet fitting from them than the usual marine-type incandescent bulb with bajonet fitting from your neighborhood chandlery. However, the darn things keep failing, one or two LEDS at a time, after only a few weeks or months of regular use. This stands in shrill contrast with the often touted 20,000 or more hour lifetime! IMHO, there are several possible explanations (1) SuperbrightLEDs, and other LED discount houses, may sell LED clusters that failed inspection for a variety of potential flaws; (2) their LEDclusters come from substandard manufacturing processes, e.g. through inadequate soldering together of individual LEDs; (3) the voltages in Rivendel's cabins are fluctuating too much (e.g. because our Caframo fans are tied into the same power feed); (4) there was too much mechanical vibration and shock aboard Rivendel II (we had a rough sailing season); and (5) any further suggestions from the board (?). Thus far, the expensive Deep Creek tricolor LED cluster on top of the mast appears to have kept working well after 2 seasons. However, I have not yet climbed the mast to see if any individual LEDs in those large clusters have given up the ghost already. I am curious to hear of other sailor's experiences with regard to the lifetime of their LED clusters. Flying Dutchman Rivendel II (Legend 43)
Paul, I agree with Gord that it is hard to provide more information on saving Ahs without knowing what you are spending them on now. With regard to your SuperbrightLED link: we stocked up big time on their LEDs this season, both for "Rivendel II" and for our jungle and beach clinics in Vanuatu. Their prices are hard to beat. In fact, it costs now less to buy a 19-LED cluster with bajonet fitting from them than the usual marine-type incandescent bulb with bajonet fitting from your neighborhood chandlery. However, the darn things keep failing, one or two LEDS at a time, after only a few weeks or months of regular use. This stands in shrill contrast with the often touted 20,000 or more hour lifetime! IMHO, there are several possible explanations (1) SuperbrightLEDs, and other LED discount houses, may sell LED clusters that failed inspection for a variety of potential flaws; (2) their LEDclusters come from substandard manufacturing processes, e.g. through inadequate soldering together of individual LEDs; (3) the voltages in Rivendel's cabins are fluctuating too much (e.g. because our Caframo fans are tied into the same power feed); (4) there was too much mechanical vibration and shock aboard Rivendel II (we had a rough sailing season); and (5) any further suggestions from the board (?). Thus far, the expensive Deep Creek tricolor LED cluster on top of the mast appears to have kept working well after 2 seasons. However, I have not yet climbed the mast to see if any individual LEDs in those large clusters have given up the ghost already. I am curious to hear of other sailor's experiences with regard to the lifetime of their LED clusters. Flying Dutchman Rivendel II (Legend 43)
Are cheap LED clusters flaky?
Paul, I agree with Gord that it is hard to provide more information on saving Ahs without knowing what you are spending them on now. With regard to your SuperbrightLED link: we stocked up big time on their LEDs this season, both for "Rivendel II" and for our jungle and beach clinics in Vanuatu. Their prices are hard to beat. In fact, it costs now less to buy a 19-LED cluster with bajonet fitting from them than the usual marine-type incandescent bulb with bajonet fitting from your neighborhood chandlery. However, the darn things keep failing, one or two LEDS at a time, after only a few weeks or months of regular use. This stands in shrill contrast with the often touted 20,000 or more hour lifetime! IMHO, there are several possible explanations (1) SuperbrightLEDs, and other LED discount houses, may sell LED clusters that failed inspection for a variety of potential flaws; (2) their LEDclusters come from substandard manufacturing processes, e.g. through inadequate soldering together of individual LEDs; (3) the voltages in Rivendel's cabins are fluctuating too much (e.g. because our Caframo fans are tied into the same power feed); (4) there was too much mechanical vibration and shock aboard Rivendel II (we had a rough sailing season); and (5) any further suggestions from the board (?). Thus far, the expensive Deep Creek tricolor LED cluster on top of the mast appears to have kept working well after 2 seasons. However, I have not yet climbed the mast to see if any individual LEDs in those large clusters have given up the ghost already. I am curious to hear of other sailor's experiences with regard to the lifetime of their LED clusters. Flying Dutchman Rivendel II (Legend 43)
Paul, I agree with Gord that it is hard to provide more information on saving Ahs without knowing what you are spending them on now. With regard to your SuperbrightLED link: we stocked up big time on their LEDs this season, both for "Rivendel II" and for our jungle and beach clinics in Vanuatu. Their prices are hard to beat. In fact, it costs now less to buy a 19-LED cluster with bajonet fitting from them than the usual marine-type incandescent bulb with bajonet fitting from your neighborhood chandlery. However, the darn things keep failing, one or two LEDS at a time, after only a few weeks or months of regular use. This stands in shrill contrast with the often touted 20,000 or more hour lifetime! IMHO, there are several possible explanations (1) SuperbrightLEDs, and other LED discount houses, may sell LED clusters that failed inspection for a variety of potential flaws; (2) their LEDclusters come from substandard manufacturing processes, e.g. through inadequate soldering together of individual LEDs; (3) the voltages in Rivendel's cabins are fluctuating too much (e.g. because our Caframo fans are tied into the same power feed); (4) there was too much mechanical vibration and shock aboard Rivendel II (we had a rough sailing season); and (5) any further suggestions from the board (?). Thus far, the expensive Deep Creek tricolor LED cluster on top of the mast appears to have kept working well after 2 seasons. However, I have not yet climbed the mast to see if any individual LEDs in those large clusters have given up the ghost already. I am curious to hear of other sailor's experiences with regard to the lifetime of their LED clusters. Flying Dutchman Rivendel II (Legend 43)
Interesting..
Thanks for the info on the LEDS burning out. Guess I shouldn't hard wire the rest in. Gord, Peter I'm first trying to reduce the amp usage as much as I can so when I buy some alternative energy sources like solar or wind, I won't have to get too much. One thing I'm wondering about now is that I find that with all my circuit breakers off, the Link 20 says I'm still drawing .7 amps. This gets rather significant over a 24 hour period, nearly 17amp/hours. The only thing that seems to be drawing the power is all the meters and the lights on them (like the Link 20). Has anyone measured how much amperage they use with everything off? Some other devices are the laptop PC about 3.5Amps but I'm not sure how many hours I will be running it. The Furuno radar/chartplotter is a biggy, 4Amps. It uses only 2.7Amps with radar not transmitting.
Thanks for the info on the LEDS burning out. Guess I shouldn't hard wire the rest in. Gord, Peter I'm first trying to reduce the amp usage as much as I can so when I buy some alternative energy sources like solar or wind, I won't have to get too much. One thing I'm wondering about now is that I find that with all my circuit breakers off, the Link 20 says I'm still drawing .7 amps. This gets rather significant over a 24 hour period, nearly 17amp/hours. The only thing that seems to be drawing the power is all the meters and the lights on them (like the Link 20). Has anyone measured how much amperage they use with everything off? Some other devices are the laptop PC about 3.5Amps but I'm not sure how many hours I will be running it. The Furuno radar/chartplotter is a biggy, 4Amps. It uses only 2.7Amps with radar not transmitting.
Interesting..
Thanks for the info on the LEDS burning out. Guess I shouldn't hard wire the rest in. Gord, Peter I'm first trying to reduce the amp usage as much as I can so when I buy some alternative energy sources like solar or wind, I won't have to get too much. One thing I'm wondering about now is that I find that with all my circuit breakers off, the Link 20 says I'm still drawing .7 amps. This gets rather significant over a 24 hour period, nearly 17amp/hours. The only thing that seems to be drawing the power is all the meters and the lights on them (like the Link 20). Has anyone measured how much amperage they use with everything off? Some other devices are the laptop PC about 3.5Amps but I'm not sure how many hours I will be running it. The Furuno radar/chartplotter is a biggy, 4Amps. It uses only 2.7Amps with radar not transmitting.
Thanks for the info on the LEDS burning out. Guess I shouldn't hard wire the rest in. Gord, Peter I'm first trying to reduce the amp usage as much as I can so when I buy some alternative energy sources like solar or wind, I won't have to get too much. One thing I'm wondering about now is that I find that with all my circuit breakers off, the Link 20 says I'm still drawing .7 amps. This gets rather significant over a 24 hour period, nearly 17amp/hours. The only thing that seems to be drawing the power is all the meters and the lights on them (like the Link 20). Has anyone measured how much amperage they use with everything off? Some other devices are the laptop PC about 3.5Amps but I'm not sure how many hours I will be running it. The Furuno radar/chartplotter is a biggy, 4Amps. It uses only 2.7Amps with radar not transmitting.
Cheaper LED's
I am only marginally informed on LED technology - so a "grain of salt" required here. One of the more exopensive components in a Lighting LED assembly is the "Driver" - essentially a voltage reducer (cheap resistor) or (expensive) current regulator. The resistance method may result in wildly fluctuating voltages at the LED (exacerbated by outside influences), with a resulting "short-life" cycle. LED life increases (& light output decreases) exponentially as the applied voltage decreases. Conventional lamp life is rated in hours - the stated life representing the point at which half the tested lamps expired. Hence, a 2000 hour rated lamp, indicates a statistical likelihood that half off all such lamps will last that long, and the other half will have burnt out at some earlier time (even after a few hours). I'm not certain that there is an accepted standard for LED life testing/rating. See Don Klipstein's LED Page for more excellent information: http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html and Excerpted From “Otherpower.com” which is owned by “ForceField: LED ratings are specified by current, not voltage. For longest life, we recommend you run them at 20-25 milliamps (ma). HOWEVER, in our LED flashlight conversions (and many commercial LED flashlights), the LEDs are run at 50-60ma, twice the rated current. One of our test LEDs ran at 98ma for over 200 hours without damage or appreciable light loss. So go ahead and experiment with running them at over rated current if you are willing to take the risk of a shorter life. In my opinion, a flashlight bulb that lasts 100 hours is a huge improvement and cost saver over the incandescent alternative which gives only 15-20 hours before it dies. See the full article at: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html Gord
I am only marginally informed on LED technology - so a "grain of salt" required here. One of the more exopensive components in a Lighting LED assembly is the "Driver" - essentially a voltage reducer (cheap resistor) or (expensive) current regulator. The resistance method may result in wildly fluctuating voltages at the LED (exacerbated by outside influences), with a resulting "short-life" cycle. LED life increases (& light output decreases) exponentially as the applied voltage decreases. Conventional lamp life is rated in hours - the stated life representing the point at which half the tested lamps expired. Hence, a 2000 hour rated lamp, indicates a statistical likelihood that half off all such lamps will last that long, and the other half will have burnt out at some earlier time (even after a few hours). I'm not certain that there is an accepted standard for LED life testing/rating. See Don Klipstein's LED Page for more excellent information: http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html and Excerpted From “Otherpower.com” which is owned by “ForceField: LED ratings are specified by current, not voltage. For longest life, we recommend you run them at 20-25 milliamps (ma). HOWEVER, in our LED flashlight conversions (and many commercial LED flashlights), the LEDs are run at 50-60ma, twice the rated current. One of our test LEDs ran at 98ma for over 200 hours without damage or appreciable light loss. So go ahead and experiment with running them at over rated current if you are willing to take the risk of a shorter life. In my opinion, a flashlight bulb that lasts 100 hours is a huge improvement and cost saver over the incandescent alternative which gives only 15-20 hours before it dies. See the full article at: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html Gord
Cheaper LED's
I am only marginally informed on LED technology - so a "grain of salt" required here. One of the more exopensive components in a Lighting LED assembly is the "Driver" - essentially a voltage reducer (cheap resistor) or (expensive) current regulator. The resistance method may result in wildly fluctuating voltages at the LED (exacerbated by outside influences), with a resulting "short-life" cycle. LED life increases (& light output decreases) exponentially as the applied voltage decreases. Conventional lamp life is rated in hours - the stated life representing the point at which half the tested lamps expired. Hence, a 2000 hour rated lamp, indicates a statistical likelihood that half off all such lamps will last that long, and the other half will have burnt out at some earlier time (even after a few hours). I'm not certain that there is an accepted standard for LED life testing/rating. See Don Klipstein's LED Page for more excellent information: http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html and Excerpted From “Otherpower.com” which is owned by “ForceField: LED ratings are specified by current, not voltage. For longest life, we recommend you run them at 20-25 milliamps (ma). HOWEVER, in our LED flashlight conversions (and many commercial LED flashlights), the LEDs are run at 50-60ma, twice the rated current. One of our test LEDs ran at 98ma for over 200 hours without damage or appreciable light loss. So go ahead and experiment with running them at over rated current if you are willing to take the risk of a shorter life. In my opinion, a flashlight bulb that lasts 100 hours is a huge improvement and cost saver over the incandescent alternative which gives only 15-20 hours before it dies. See the full article at: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html Gord
I am only marginally informed on LED technology - so a "grain of salt" required here. One of the more exopensive components in a Lighting LED assembly is the "Driver" - essentially a voltage reducer (cheap resistor) or (expensive) current regulator. The resistance method may result in wildly fluctuating voltages at the LED (exacerbated by outside influences), with a resulting "short-life" cycle. LED life increases (& light output decreases) exponentially as the applied voltage decreases. Conventional lamp life is rated in hours - the stated life representing the point at which half the tested lamps expired. Hence, a 2000 hour rated lamp, indicates a statistical likelihood that half off all such lamps will last that long, and the other half will have burnt out at some earlier time (even after a few hours). I'm not certain that there is an accepted standard for LED life testing/rating. See Don Klipstein's LED Page for more excellent information: http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html and Excerpted From “Otherpower.com” which is owned by “ForceField: LED ratings are specified by current, not voltage. For longest life, we recommend you run them at 20-25 milliamps (ma). HOWEVER, in our LED flashlight conversions (and many commercial LED flashlights), the LEDs are run at 50-60ma, twice the rated current. One of our test LEDs ran at 98ma for over 200 hours without damage or appreciable light loss. So go ahead and experiment with running them at over rated current if you are willing to take the risk of a shorter life. In my opinion, a flashlight bulb that lasts 100 hours is a huge improvement and cost saver over the incandescent alternative which gives only 15-20 hours before it dies. See the full article at: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_leds.html Gord
Link
Paul, I keep my boat on a mid stream mooring without shore power. I also have a Link and note the following:- 1) Link is ON all the time, the numbers go off after 10 min but the LEDs and monitoring function remains on. Current draw of Link is 45 mA. 2) I have an alternator high charge setup (Adverc) which is also on all the time - current draw 45 mA. 3) I run a burglar alarm which I modified to reduce its current to 1 mA. 4) I run a NASA Navtex Pro Plus constantly even when I am not aboard. This is so there is a forecast when I go aboard. Current draw again 45 mA. Total current drain with the master switches off is 135 mA = 3.24 AH/day = 97 Ah/month A WHOLE BATTERY FULL I also have a solar panel.
Paul, I keep my boat on a mid stream mooring without shore power. I also have a Link and note the following:- 1) Link is ON all the time, the numbers go off after 10 min but the LEDs and monitoring function remains on. Current draw of Link is 45 mA. 2) I have an alternator high charge setup (Adverc) which is also on all the time - current draw 45 mA. 3) I run a burglar alarm which I modified to reduce its current to 1 mA. 4) I run a NASA Navtex Pro Plus constantly even when I am not aboard. This is so there is a forecast when I go aboard. Current draw again 45 mA. Total current drain with the master switches off is 135 mA = 3.24 AH/day = 97 Ah/month A WHOLE BATTERY FULL I also have a solar panel.
Link
Paul, I keep my boat on a mid stream mooring without shore power. I also have a Link and note the following:- 1) Link is ON all the time, the numbers go off after 10 min but the LEDs and monitoring function remains on. Current draw of Link is 45 mA. 2) I have an alternator high charge setup (Adverc) which is also on all the time - current draw 45 mA. 3) I run a burglar alarm which I modified to reduce its current to 1 mA. 4) I run a NASA Navtex Pro Plus constantly even when I am not aboard. This is so there is a forecast when I go aboard. Current draw again 45 mA. Total current drain with the master switches off is 135 mA = 3.24 AH/day = 97 Ah/month A WHOLE BATTERY FULL I also have a solar panel.
Paul, I keep my boat on a mid stream mooring without shore power. I also have a Link and note the following:- 1) Link is ON all the time, the numbers go off after 10 min but the LEDs and monitoring function remains on. Current draw of Link is 45 mA. 2) I have an alternator high charge setup (Adverc) which is also on all the time - current draw 45 mA. 3) I run a burglar alarm which I modified to reduce its current to 1 mA. 4) I run a NASA Navtex Pro Plus constantly even when I am not aboard. This is so there is a forecast when I go aboard. Current draw again 45 mA. Total current drain with the master switches off is 135 mA = 3.24 AH/day = 97 Ah/month A WHOLE BATTERY FULL I also have a solar panel.
On the other hand
We think LEDs are a great source of energy conservation. In lieu of changing out our lights, we re-installled our large trawler lamp in the saloon and cleaned and refurbished our lamp oil anchor light (as well as using a low draw Davis Mega Light for a masthead anchor light). We end up going to sleep with our two halogen reading lights near dusk, and only use the halogen overhead lights I installed over the galley for a short period of time when cleaning dishes. Our "light" consumption dropped from 15 to 16 aH to only 3 to 4 per day. The oil anchor light is off the stern on the dingy motor lift or the split backstay bridle in anchorages. Otherwise we use the masthead light. (Never both together: either / or). The "regular" Perko or other brand OEM masthead light (bulb)is and always has been a sure culprit for high energy use if it has not been switched out to a low draw high visibility lamp. Stu PS Candles also work, and are very romantic
We think LEDs are a great source of energy conservation. In lieu of changing out our lights, we re-installled our large trawler lamp in the saloon and cleaned and refurbished our lamp oil anchor light (as well as using a low draw Davis Mega Light for a masthead anchor light). We end up going to sleep with our two halogen reading lights near dusk, and only use the halogen overhead lights I installed over the galley for a short period of time when cleaning dishes. Our "light" consumption dropped from 15 to 16 aH to only 3 to 4 per day. The oil anchor light is off the stern on the dingy motor lift or the split backstay bridle in anchorages. Otherwise we use the masthead light. (Never both together: either / or). The "regular" Perko or other brand OEM masthead light (bulb)is and always has been a sure culprit for high energy use if it has not been switched out to a low draw high visibility lamp. Stu PS Candles also work, and are very romantic
On the other hand
We think LEDs are a great source of energy conservation. In lieu of changing out our lights, we re-installled our large trawler lamp in the saloon and cleaned and refurbished our lamp oil anchor light (as well as using a low draw Davis Mega Light for a masthead anchor light). We end up going to sleep with our two halogen reading lights near dusk, and only use the halogen overhead lights I installed over the galley for a short period of time when cleaning dishes. Our "light" consumption dropped from 15 to 16 aH to only 3 to 4 per day. The oil anchor light is off the stern on the dingy motor lift or the split backstay bridle in anchorages. Otherwise we use the masthead light. (Never both together: either / or). The "regular" Perko or other brand OEM masthead light (bulb)is and always has been a sure culprit for high energy use if it has not been switched out to a low draw high visibility lamp. Stu PS Candles also work, and are very romantic
We think LEDs are a great source of energy conservation. In lieu of changing out our lights, we re-installled our large trawler lamp in the saloon and cleaned and refurbished our lamp oil anchor light (as well as using a low draw Davis Mega Light for a masthead anchor light). We end up going to sleep with our two halogen reading lights near dusk, and only use the halogen overhead lights I installed over the galley for a short period of time when cleaning dishes. Our "light" consumption dropped from 15 to 16 aH to only 3 to 4 per day. The oil anchor light is off the stern on the dingy motor lift or the split backstay bridle in anchorages. Otherwise we use the masthead light. (Never both together: either / or). The "regular" Perko or other brand OEM masthead light (bulb)is and always has been a sure culprit for high energy use if it has not been switched out to a low draw high visibility lamp. Stu PS Candles also work, and are very romantic
Playing Russian Rou-LED
Thanks for that input Gord. It sounds as if it might be best to run all LED lighting directly from their own stabilized and filtered DC power supply. In fact, I did buy such a supply (12 V DC, 5 Amp, if I remember well) from SuperBright LEDs for a very reasonable price but ended up giving it to a friend with refrigerator DC power problems..... Your point about the statistics is well taken too. Especially, if one ends up with several hundred individual LEDS on board (just add up the numbers for a mast-top tricolor and several 20-40 LED cluster bulbs) the chance of one failing every ten hours or so may not be insignificant. Besides the MTBF value for individual LEDs one would need to know the shape and width of the distribution curve to make a more accurate estimate, of course. For our cabin lights I am not too worried about the surprisingly short lifetime as replacement clusters are getting cheaper and cheaper. Also, the newer super-LEDs being sold by GuideGear (Sportsman's Guide) and others, each of which replaces about 10 conventional LEDs, may help push the actual failure rate down if their MTBF is comparable with that of the standard individual LEDs. However, for the expensive masttop navigation light LED system it might be worth the trouble to use a stabilized and filtered power supply. Amazing that the guys at Deep Creek never said anything about that....... Flying Dutchman
Thanks for that input Gord. It sounds as if it might be best to run all LED lighting directly from their own stabilized and filtered DC power supply. In fact, I did buy such a supply (12 V DC, 5 Amp, if I remember well) from SuperBright LEDs for a very reasonable price but ended up giving it to a friend with refrigerator DC power problems..... Your point about the statistics is well taken too. Especially, if one ends up with several hundred individual LEDS on board (just add up the numbers for a mast-top tricolor and several 20-40 LED cluster bulbs) the chance of one failing every ten hours or so may not be insignificant. Besides the MTBF value for individual LEDs one would need to know the shape and width of the distribution curve to make a more accurate estimate, of course. For our cabin lights I am not too worried about the surprisingly short lifetime as replacement clusters are getting cheaper and cheaper. Also, the newer super-LEDs being sold by GuideGear (Sportsman's Guide) and others, each of which replaces about 10 conventional LEDs, may help push the actual failure rate down if their MTBF is comparable with that of the standard individual LEDs. However, for the expensive masttop navigation light LED system it might be worth the trouble to use a stabilized and filtered power supply. Amazing that the guys at Deep Creek never said anything about that....... Flying Dutchman
Playing Russian Rou-LED
Thanks for that input Gord. It sounds as if it might be best to run all LED lighting directly from their own stabilized and filtered DC power supply. In fact, I did buy such a supply (12 V DC, 5 Amp, if I remember well) from SuperBright LEDs for a very reasonable price but ended up giving it to a friend with refrigerator DC power problems..... Your point about the statistics is well taken too. Especially, if one ends up with several hundred individual LEDS on board (just add up the numbers for a mast-top tricolor and several 20-40 LED cluster bulbs) the chance of one failing every ten hours or so may not be insignificant. Besides the MTBF value for individual LEDs one would need to know the shape and width of the distribution curve to make a more accurate estimate, of course. For our cabin lights I am not too worried about the surprisingly short lifetime as replacement clusters are getting cheaper and cheaper. Also, the newer super-LEDs being sold by GuideGear (Sportsman's Guide) and others, each of which replaces about 10 conventional LEDs, may help push the actual failure rate down if their MTBF is comparable with that of the standard individual LEDs. However, for the expensive masttop navigation light LED system it might be worth the trouble to use a stabilized and filtered power supply. Amazing that the guys at Deep Creek never said anything about that....... Flying Dutchman
Thanks for that input Gord. It sounds as if it might be best to run all LED lighting directly from their own stabilized and filtered DC power supply. In fact, I did buy such a supply (12 V DC, 5 Amp, if I remember well) from SuperBright LEDs for a very reasonable price but ended up giving it to a friend with refrigerator DC power problems..... Your point about the statistics is well taken too. Especially, if one ends up with several hundred individual LEDS on board (just add up the numbers for a mast-top tricolor and several 20-40 LED cluster bulbs) the chance of one failing every ten hours or so may not be insignificant. Besides the MTBF value for individual LEDs one would need to know the shape and width of the distribution curve to make a more accurate estimate, of course. For our cabin lights I am not too worried about the surprisingly short lifetime as replacement clusters are getting cheaper and cheaper. Also, the newer super-LEDs being sold by GuideGear (Sportsman's Guide) and others, each of which replaces about 10 conventional LEDs, may help push the actual failure rate down if their MTBF is comparable with that of the standard individual LEDs. However, for the expensive masttop navigation light LED system it might be worth the trouble to use a stabilized and filtered power supply. Amazing that the guys at Deep Creek never said anything about that....... Flying Dutchman
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