Leaving boat in water over winter with ice.

[flopster12000]

Hello,

I am considering leaving my 1989 Morgan 41 in the water through this winter. I live about 5 minutes from my boat, and can check it every day. If I bring it to the nearest Marine Centre over 1 hr from my home, it will be put in on their yard, which they will not plow. Basically it will be April before I can work on her again. If I leave it in the water, I will be able to work on her as often as I can, which will be almost every day. I live in Clarenville Newfoundland, 48N 53W. It can get quite cold for short periods but rarely last more than a week or two with very cold weather, and very often we can have temps above freezing for a day or two. The worst average temps are Jan and Feb average -5 C. 20 F. We get some ice, some years, but I have never seen it more than 4" thick. Most years we don't have any ice. In spring we can get Arctic ice, Ice bergs, growlers, pan ice, bergy bits, but this it is very unusual as we live up an 18 mile in draught from Trinity Bay and wind and tide have to be absolutely perfect for it to make its way up to Clarenville. If we do get Arctic ice, maybe once every 10 years, it only last for a day or two, and moves on out. Other more exposed areas in Newfoundland are pummelled with this ice, but for Clarenville, this is very rare. BTW, if you are south of Cape Race, for the whole southern shore of Newfoundland, there is no worry of Arctic Ice, as the gulf stream keeps water fairly warm.

Has anyone had any experience in leaving their Morgan boat in water and it icing in...... Will I have to worry about damage if a small amount of Ice forms around waterline. I realize I can use a bubbler, but the marina shuts power off, and other members may not be in favour or leaving the power on for just me. I have already said I will pay the bill, but the response wasn't very warm. So I am presuming there will be no bubbler. Tides in our area are normally around 1 meter (3 feet). And town sewage outlet (Not as nasty as it sounds) which never freezes at least for the first 100' from discharge. I will move My boat as close as possible to this discharge will be approx 300' away so if we do get any ice, it should be thinest in this area.

Also, what precautions should I take as far as winterizing engine, I will have all systems, plumbing, toilets, etc winterized with antifreeze. And will put new antifreeze in engine. The only water that will be in boat, will be on raw water side of heat exchanger.

If I can do this, I will be able to work on boat most every evening, and be well ahead of the game for next cruising season.


Thanks

Jerry Belbin

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Jerry
There have been previous discussion on this topic you may find in the archives.
One consideration you don't mention is insurance, or lack thereof, unless you either don't care, or your underwriter won't cover an in-water layup period absent bubblers which is a common stipulation.

 

[Maine Sail]

Jerry,

It can be done but you are at a higher risk for freezing issues if left in. Some areas that can freeze are seacocks, the stern tube for your prop shaft and the bilge. I have more than once seen solid blocks of ice inside a keel when the boat was in the water. Sea water freezes at lower than 32 degrees and often we see water over here in Maine at 29-30 degrees F not frozen. Fresh water in the bilge however will freeze at closer to 32 degrees F. Try to keep the bilge dry..


In Newfoundland I would not advise leaving your raw water side of the engine without antifreeze. Winterizing the raw water side is quite easy. You may not need to "replace" the anti freeze on the sealed side of the system but I would check it with an antifreeze tester to make sure it is good and has a sufficient freeze point for burst protection.

Don's points on insurance are spot on. My policy requires that I am out of the water between Nov 1 and April 1..

 

[flopster12000]

Dock Bubbler / Aerator

Thanks for both Don's and your advise. I will have to look into a bubbler/aerator system, if I decide to leave the boat in. My policy states December 1 - April 1, so I have a few days yet, but soon approaching. I will also look thru the archives for more issues that I haven't thought of. For instance, I never thought of stern tube but I certainly see your point. It seems that this is going to be a very big hassle.

To you point about bilge, mine stays very dry, and will be checked at least every second day.
How do you put antifreeze the raw water side, I have a yanmar 44hp, or do you just close seacock, and empty.

Sorry I am a bit naive on this subject, and am anxious to stay working on the boat as long as possible.

I wish to thank both Don and yourself for the quick response.

Jerry Belbin
Chelsea Mist.

Jerry,

It can be done but you are at a higher risk for freezing issues if left in. Some areas that can freeze are seacocks, the stern tube for your prop shaft and the bilge. I have more than once seen solid blocks of ice inside a keel when the boat was in the water. Sea water freezes at lower than 32 degrees and often we see water over here in Maine at 29-30 degrees F not frozen. Fresh water in the bilge however will freeze at closer to 32 degrees F. Try to keep the bilge dry..


In Newfoundland I would not advise leaving your raw water side of the engine without antifreeze. Winterizing the raw water side is quite easy. You may not need to "replace" the anti freeze on the sealed side of the system but I would check it with an antifreeze tester to make sure it is good and has a sufficient freeze point for burst protection.

Don's points on insurance are spot on. My policy requires that I am out of the water between Nov 1 and April 1..

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

A few more thoughts Jerry -
1. Some underwriters will provide a written endorsement to allow coverage throughout the winter for free if the boat is layed up afloat - check with your's.

2. Water in the bilge will freeze regardless of whether you are afloat. If normally dry, it's a moot point as a little water will never cause any damage if it has someplace unrestricted in which to expand. Not true of the rudder or shaft tubes which might not be problematic as long as the underlying water stays liquid.

3. Antifreeze in the raw water side is normally there as a by-product of how most folks winterize - by removing the intake hose from the seacock and dunking it in antifreeze sucked into the heat exchanger. Some residual is inevitable and would be intentionally so in your case when you do this.
Simply emptying the raw water hose opens up the likelihood of residual water trapped therein so it is best to preclude the possibility with antifreeze.

Through all the years we kept our boat afloat throughout winter, I noticed one fundamental concept - Most boats incur winter damage not from ice but from chafe on the lines.