I just bought a hunter 35.5, my first boat. I have had different answers to the question 'Which switch(S) do i leave on when i leave the boat?' I have two MAIN switches on the circuit panel, DC Main and AC main in addition to the others. I also have a heart interface which I'm not sure whether to leave on charge or not. Please help, need all the advise i can get. thanks Rob and DJ 'You Be U'
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Don't touch the mains
Leave both the DC and AC mains on. If you turn off the DC main you have no automatic bilge pump. Turn off the AC main and you have no battery charger. As far as the Heart Interface, leave it on..it will keep your batteries topped off. The best thing to do is turn off all the other switches..ie: pressure water, stereo, hot water heater etc. MPJ
Leave both the DC and AC mains on. If you turn off the DC main you have no automatic bilge pump. Turn off the AC main and you have no battery charger. As far as the Heart Interface, leave it on..it will keep your batteries topped off. The best thing to do is turn off all the other switches..ie: pressure water, stereo, hot water heater etc. MPJ
auto bilge
Your auto bilge pump should be hot wired to the battery to avoid this mistake. Test it by turning off the DC main and lifting the float switch, it should come on. If it doesn't I would rewire it immediately.
Your auto bilge pump should be hot wired to the battery to avoid this mistake. Test it by turning off the DC main and lifting the float switch, it should come on. If it doesn't I would rewire it immediately.
don't turn off switchs
when you leave the boat for a extended time you can leave all the panel switches alone and just turn off the battery switches and unplug the boat. the auto bilge will still work [test to be sure] and there is no need for a battery charger or inverter to be on if not in use, this way nothing should go wrong when you are not on the boat. i.e. water leak or electrical problems when you return plug the boat in dockside and turn you batteris back on.
when you leave the boat for a extended time you can leave all the panel switches alone and just turn off the battery switches and unplug the boat. the auto bilge will still work [test to be sure] and there is no need for a battery charger or inverter to be on if not in use, this way nothing should go wrong when you are not on the boat. i.e. water leak or electrical problems when you return plug the boat in dockside and turn you batteris back on.
Leaving it plugged in.
You have to experiment to see how it is wired. My auto bilge pump is wired straight to the battery so it doesn't matter if the DC master is on. My inverter charger has also been wired (by a previous owner) so it bypasses the master -- if it is plugged in it will charge whether the AC main is on or not. This is probably not the best setup. In any case, I am a little reluctant to leave hot AC coming into my untended boat for extended periods. You don't need it just to charge the batteries -- the batteries should fully charge in one day. One hears stories of fires starting because of shorts in the wiring (like the cover strory on the P42). Also, it is not uncommon for boats to have ground leaks particularly if the bilge is wet. If so, the stray electricity will burn those zincs in no time, so if you plan on keeping it plugged in, keep a close eye on your zincs until your feel comfortable the system is stable.
You have to experiment to see how it is wired. My auto bilge pump is wired straight to the battery so it doesn't matter if the DC master is on. My inverter charger has also been wired (by a previous owner) so it bypasses the master -- if it is plugged in it will charge whether the AC main is on or not. This is probably not the best setup. In any case, I am a little reluctant to leave hot AC coming into my untended boat for extended periods. You don't need it just to charge the batteries -- the batteries should fully charge in one day. One hears stories of fires starting because of shorts in the wiring (like the cover strory on the P42). Also, it is not uncommon for boats to have ground leaks particularly if the bilge is wet. If so, the stray electricity will burn those zincs in no time, so if you plan on keeping it plugged in, keep a close eye on your zincs until your feel comfortable the system is stable.
depends
I guess it depends in how much you have invested in the house battery bank. I have three hugely expensive 4D gell cells installed, so I tend to leave a charger on to keep those babies happy. I turn off the charger for the engine-start battery though, and let the solar panel keep it perky.
I guess it depends in how much you have invested in the house battery bank. I have three hugely expensive 4D gell cells installed, so I tend to leave a charger on to keep those babies happy. I turn off the charger for the engine-start battery though, and let the solar panel keep it perky.
Another word or two
Three years ago, I found the AC entry plug and socket hot, after my wife said she smelled smoke down below. I unplugged the cord and the socket parts were melted. Bottom line, I do not leave the AC cord active (switched on) when I leave the boat for the week. Hunter used aluminum wire for the entry service to the main fuse panel, and in time it will loosen I urge you to remove the AC socket and tighten the screws, then re seal it to the hull. Also chech the back of the fuse panel,and with the power off, check all the screws on all the breakers and buss bars for tightness. Nothing wrong with aluminum wire, just keep an eye on it every few years. Best of luck, J K Kudera sv 50-50
Three years ago, I found the AC entry plug and socket hot, after my wife said she smelled smoke down below. I unplugged the cord and the socket parts were melted. Bottom line, I do not leave the AC cord active (switched on) when I leave the boat for the week. Hunter used aluminum wire for the entry service to the main fuse panel, and in time it will loosen I urge you to remove the AC socket and tighten the screws, then re seal it to the hull. Also chech the back of the fuse panel,and with the power off, check all the screws on all the breakers and buss bars for tightness. Nothing wrong with aluminum wire, just keep an eye on it every few years. Best of luck, J K Kudera sv 50-50
Fridge running
I usually leave the DC off and the AC on because I leave my fridge running during the week. But judging by past postings on this site I will be checking the AC cord for warmth.
I usually leave the DC off and the AC on because I leave my fridge running during the week. But judging by past postings on this site I will be checking the AC cord for warmth.
Zincs and Hot wires
My concern is with my boat becoming a ground for the marina; therefore, my preference is to have the AC cord disconnected. I replace zincs after about 6 months to stay on the safe side. With regard to the inverter, we've got a Hart 1000 which has the potential of putting out something like 3000 watts for a short period, I like to make shure it is off when tinkering with the 110 side. Also, a few times I've had the hot water heater on and disconnected the shore power only to find my battery banks were being drained to heat water! When you hear the fan running on the inverter and the shore power is disconnected it's a good time to become suspicious. For a weekend or longer trip I connect the shore power and turn on the inverter, battery banks (house only), and refrigeration a day ahead of time to get the box down to temperature. I never leave the shore power and inverter on for extended periods and except for running the refrigeration the battery banks are always left 'off'. My house banks are flooded and vented whereas the start battery is flooded and 'no maintenance'. Because the charger puts out 50 amps DC, to avoid excessive gassing of the start battery I don't do any high-amperage charging of it. Eventually, when it is replaced I'll replace it with a vented battery. Congratulations on your 'new' 35.5 - that's a really good boat, and welcome aboard!
My concern is with my boat becoming a ground for the marina; therefore, my preference is to have the AC cord disconnected. I replace zincs after about 6 months to stay on the safe side. With regard to the inverter, we've got a Hart 1000 which has the potential of putting out something like 3000 watts for a short period, I like to make shure it is off when tinkering with the 110 side. Also, a few times I've had the hot water heater on and disconnected the shore power only to find my battery banks were being drained to heat water! When you hear the fan running on the inverter and the shore power is disconnected it's a good time to become suspicious. For a weekend or longer trip I connect the shore power and turn on the inverter, battery banks (house only), and refrigeration a day ahead of time to get the box down to temperature. I never leave the shore power and inverter on for extended periods and except for running the refrigeration the battery banks are always left 'off'. My house banks are flooded and vented whereas the start battery is flooded and 'no maintenance'. Because the charger puts out 50 amps DC, to avoid excessive gassing of the start battery I don't do any high-amperage charging of it. Eventually, when it is replaced I'll replace it with a vented battery. Congratulations on your 'new' 35.5 - that's a really good boat, and welcome aboard!
Interface
If your interface is wired like mine (you didn't say how old it was)here's how it should work. It has a three step process for charging the batteries and the operation is completely automatic. It shouldn't cook the batteries much leaving it on all the time assuming the step down is working correctly. If you leave the shore power connected it will charge your batteries as long as the A/C main is on. My boat has two A/C main breakers(be sure you have the correct one on). Do not turn on the battery charger breaker. Someone mentioned leaving the DC main on for the bilge pump. If your bilge pump requires the DC main to be on I would rewire it immediately.
If your interface is wired like mine (you didn't say how old it was)here's how it should work. It has a three step process for charging the batteries and the operation is completely automatic. It shouldn't cook the batteries much leaving it on all the time assuming the step down is working correctly. If you leave the shore power connected it will charge your batteries as long as the A/C main is on. My boat has two A/C main breakers(be sure you have the correct one on). Do not turn on the battery charger breaker. Someone mentioned leaving the DC main on for the bilge pump. If your bilge pump requires the DC main to be on I would rewire it immediately.
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