Leaky Windows
- Thread starter mikeracca
- Start date
If you can't find the proper seal, you can use some weather stripping from the hardware store. I used some self adhesive weatherstripping with a D profile. I applied it just after haul out, closed the window during winter layup to apply pressure to the adhesive. No known leaks last season
'79 right? So aluminum framed windows.
Are they leaking where they're sealed or between the aluminum frame and the deck?
Between the frame and the deck is easy. Remove the window. Rebed the window with your goo of choice. I'd use butyl tape (From Mainesail if it's still available). If not butyl, some sort of polysulfide like life-caulk. You want something that stays a bit flexible. Do not use 5200/4200. And under no circumstances use something labelled "silicone" that you found at home depot for anything on a boat.
The rubber seal can be replaced with a similar profile or weather stripping as mentioned above. Or you can use Dow 795 to caulk them into the frames - it'd be a challenge to do it neatly though. (There's a comparable sikaflex product to 795, I just don't remember what it is)
Speaking of leaking, you may find you need to rebed stanchion bases, chainplates, deck hardware, etc. These are really common leak spots.
Are they leaking where they're sealed or between the aluminum frame and the deck?
Between the frame and the deck is easy. Remove the window. Rebed the window with your goo of choice. I'd use butyl tape (From Mainesail if it's still available). If not butyl, some sort of polysulfide like life-caulk. You want something that stays a bit flexible. Do not use 5200/4200. And under no circumstances use something labelled "silicone" that you found at home depot for anything on a boat.
The rubber seal can be replaced with a similar profile or weather stripping as mentioned above. Or you can use Dow 795 to caulk them into the frames - it'd be a challenge to do it neatly though. (There's a comparable sikaflex product to 795, I just don't remember what it is)
Speaking of leaking, you may find you need to rebed stanchion bases, chainplates, deck hardware, etc. These are really common leak spots.
I found a few leaks in the chain plates, and I am well versed in the repair of those from my MacGregor 25. For those I used 4200 and it worked great.
Yes I have the Aluminum framed windows and I have a couple leaking from the rubber seal (glass is wet along the seal/glass joint) and a couple that are leaking at the hull interface (no water on the glass but a dribble from under the frame). Why not use the 4200 on the frame to hull interface? I know the 5200 is a no-no due to how hard it gets it is a very permanent fix, and I don’t want that. I also know about the silicone… I have dealt with that for 30 years worth of fixing cars/trucks/motorcycles and what have you where people have “fixed” this or that leak with the stuff and only ended up making a mess and a more difficult repair. And usually the correct fix was cheaper than the tube of silicone.
Yes I have the Aluminum framed windows and I have a couple leaking from the rubber seal (glass is wet along the seal/glass joint) and a couple that are leaking at the hull interface (no water on the glass but a dribble from under the frame). Why not use the 4200 on the frame to hull interface? I know the 5200 is a no-no due to how hard it gets it is a very permanent fix, and I don’t want that. I also know about the silicone… I have dealt with that for 30 years worth of fixing cars/trucks/motorcycles and what have you where people have “fixed” this or that leak with the stuff and only ended up making a mess and a more difficult repair. And usually the correct fix was cheaper than the tube of silicone.
5200 - no flex and you'll never get it apart intact later.
4200 - almost as sticky as 5200. I've pulled up gelcoat with stuff sealed with 4200.
polysulfide or butyl stay flexible and are easily removable later. The windows, the frames, and the fiberglass are all expanding/contracting at different rates. You may also find the frames are fragile if they've corroded a bit. There are kits to replace them with the "glued on" frameless look windows.
I used butyl for one of my windows. If you put too much on you'll never get all of the extra to squeeze out, at least, not during the initial installation. As a result of using too much butyl (one layer of tape wasn't thick enough, two layers turned out to be too thick) The window frame stuck out further than the others and I occasionally find butyl oozing out two years later. The stuff is great for rebedding deck fittings but not windows
I have a roll of the stuff I got when I worked at an auto part store that was returned with a couple feet missing. The boss told me to refund the guy anyway (he was a Ken) and just toss it because we couldn’t resell it. I took it home to throw it away… I just haven’t got it all tossed out yet. It’s too useful for many many things around my shop.
If you can find some Bed-It, it's a pleasure to work with. The automotive stuff I picked up to reseal a window on a car on the other hand was a gooey mess
I’m currently working on a couple of windows from my ‘82.
The PO had glazed the windows with some kind of silicon crap. And it was done sloppily.
Removing that stuff was the hardest part of the job. It took a razor blade and acetone to clean up the last of the residue.
When I got it clean, I glazed with 3M 4000, which is fairly easy to work and more easily removed than 4200.
I intended to seal the frames to the deck with butyl tape, but considering Mayhem’s comments, I may use 4000 there as well. One of the things I don’t like about butyl is that is keeps oozing. And it collects dirt where exposed.
The PO had glazed the windows with some kind of silicon crap. And it was done sloppily.
Removing that stuff was the hardest part of the job. It took a razor blade and acetone to clean up the last of the residue.
When I got it clean, I glazed with 3M 4000, which is fairly easy to work and more easily removed than 4200.
I intended to seal the frames to the deck with butyl tape, but considering Mayhem’s comments, I may use 4000 there as well. One of the things I don’t like about butyl is that is keeps oozing. And it collects dirt where exposed.
Someone used silicone to prevent the windows in my MacGregor 25 from leaking. Well it’s still holding and not leaking but she needs new windows and that’s not gonna be fun to remove. I already know the routine. I’m just glad no one has thought it was a good idea on my Catalina.
I've had good results using a scotchbrite wheel on a drill to remove old sealant. They also work well at cleaning up screw threads. I have some roloc scotchbrite roloc pads coming in this weekend. I can let you know how well they worked if you're interested
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I'm actually an Ericson owner, and have also had leaky aluminum windows. After seeing some recommendations on the Ericson forums, I bought an Aluminum Window Reseal Kit from CatalinaDirect thinking that the construction of the aluminum frame was the same. Not my best moment....Anyway, I have the C-25/C-27 reseal kit if anyone could make use of it. Just PM me! I live in Virginia and sail on the Chesapeake.
I used flex seal and my port windows no longer leak. Um, that means ventilation is reduced so make sure you have a good de-humidifier.