Leaky window on Hunter 40.5 built 1993

[Irek]

Hi guys
Anyone tried to deal with leaking big side windows? I wonder if there is a drawing showing how these big panels are installed. To stop the leak, do I need to remove the whole window panel and reset it with new sealants or one can only replace the sealant in the area of the leak?
Any ideas will be appreciated./ik

 

[Rich Stidger]

Just to clarify- I think you mean the large long side windows and not the large overhead window.
I have not needed to deal with leaks, but I think that the proper way would be to remove the window panel and then re-set it with the correct adhesive/sealant. Other postings on this site do disclose what the proper sealant is; you would have to search the archives for that answer.

If, however, you want to try applying a sealant in just the leaking locations, I would recommend Sudbury Liquid Sealant shown below. It has the consistency of water and it will seep into very small cracks. Sudbury also makes a thick elastomeric sealant which is excellent - I use it to coat the ends of cotter pins to protect against rips in my skin. It will remove easily and clean by grabbing an edge of the sealant with pliers and pulling.

Note that these are sealants, and not adhesives.

Good luck finding the entry point of the water. Leaks can easily enter in one spot and exit in a different spot much further away from the entrance.

 

[kloudie1]

Here is an article from Sail Magazine that talks about options.. I redid mine a couple of years back using 3M VHB double sided closed cell tape.. Then caulked around with Dow 795.. I used new acrylic (PlexiGlas) and used the 3M primer on thhe plexi and the fiberglass.. a thorough cleaning, ensuring that ALL traces of previous sealant is necessary..
DIY: Replacing Fixed Portlights
And another:
Installing New Fixed Portlights | Boatworks Today

 

[jssailem]

I have not replaced one of the big windows. Search here on SBO. There have been several repairs to these windows accomplished.

As far as technique the work done by Andy at Boatworks Today is helpful DIY information. Here he is resealing a hatch made from the same material as your window. The materials he uses are best practices for the plastic port materials on our boats.

 

[Irek]

Hi Everyone
Many thx for the info and support. Seems that the window panel on the side of the coach roof will have to be lifted. As it is already damaged by some chemicals in the past (looks crazed with microcracks) I may as well renew it. I guess the hardest part will be removal of the old window. It is set in flash with wall so putting any tool to praise it off will not be easy. But lets see how it works! Need to find time for this kind of work./ik

 

[jssailem]

Those ports (windows) were sometimes installed with screws used to hold the plastic in place while the adhesive cured. Check along the edges of the plastic. Removing the window starts with extracting the caulk/adhesive. There are products like "Remove-It" that can help soften the silicone. Also, a heat gun on a low setting can help. Mostly I found a sharp knife edge or a small chisel helpful to scrap the silicone off the fiberglass and plastic. It is a go-slow project.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

contact Al at SBO as he has the experience resealing these windows. He used to work at Hunter.

 

[Irek]

Thx to everyone for pointers and directions. Will start with removing the whole window. That seems to be the way to go. I was hoping that partial removing of the caulking. But.... will have to sharpen my knives for serious work./ik