Leaky screws holding steering gear cover on Hunter 36 - any better solutions?

[AndyL]

On my 2004 Hunter 36 the steering gear cover just behind the helm is held down by coarse threaded screws that thread directly into fiberglass. I have a leak coming from those screws and have seen other posts with the same issue. For me, sealing them is hard because the holes have enlarged and the screws don't really bite anymore, so the whole panel moves slightly under body weight.

The easiest option is to try bigger screws along with some good sealant.

IMO, the screws don't seem like a good solution. Is there a better solution? Has anyone tried something like threaded inserts?

Any ideas or suggestions welcome.

Andy

 

[sail sfbay]

Larger screws sealed with white Life Caulk. That what I used on the same cover after I replaced my autopilot linear drive. That way the cover can be removed for inspection.

 

[AndyL]

Thanks - glad to know that approach works. I'll give it a try.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Is the bottom of those bolts accessible so they can be through bolted? If that's the case, a full length threaded bolt is not what you'd want to use. It sounds like the cover is being subjected to movement. Full length threads act like a file on the fiberglass and will enlarge the hole over time. In my opinion and experience, a through bolted fastener with minimal thread to fiberglass contact will be a more reliable solution than threaded fiberglass. You'll of course want to use an appropriate sealant such as Bed-IT (preferred), 4200 or Lifecaulk

 

[AndyL]

Accessible - yes, but not easily. In addition, although I can see some of the screws by removing a panel in the aft cabin ceiling, they are quite a way away in an area that I cannot fit my arm. Getting a nut on the end of a through bolt would be very difficult, as would getting a wrench on the nut if it could be placed.

I did wonder about bolts but we need to remove the cover to inspect and grease the steering linkage, and occasionally to remove debris that gets under the cover. Removing nuts from through bolts would make this very difficult. That's why I wondered about putting something like a rivet nut or nutsert into the holes. I'm not sure if they can safely be installed in thin fiberglass - usually they are installed in metal.

I'm going to try the larger screw and sealant approach for now. Hopefully it will hold the panel down firmly and stop the leak.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I like the idea of a nutsert or rivet nut but my gut is telling me that it might form small cracks in the fiberglass around the hole. If the bottom was inaccessible I would probably try a larger bolt as well. Filling the hole and re-tapping might be stronger than the original glass. 4200 or Life Caulk should seal and keep the fastener from coming loose

 

[AndyL]

The idea of a larger screw didn't work. The original screws were #10 and moving to #12 still didn't hold at all. I could have used #14 but then the heads would be too big to be flush with the surface unless I enlarged the countersink area and these holes are very close to the edge already.

To fix the leak I've sealed the enlarged holes and am temporarily just using the other holes to secure the cover. BTW, I used Life Seal instead of Life Caulk. It seemed a good choice - I hope it was.

Maybe try a better fix next season.

 

[artboas]

I always favor threaded inserts. You can get them in stainless, and I would epoxy them in.
Then, use clear silicone sealant when you put the bolts in to waterproof under the heads.
I never like to use wood screw threads into Fiberglas if I can avoid it.
I’m guessing that 10-24 will be the optimal thread.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I always favor threaded inserts. You can get them in stainless, and I would epoxy them in.
Then, use clear silicone sealant when you put the bolts in to waterproof under the heads.
I never like to use wood screw threads into Fiberglas if I can avoid it.
I’m guessing that 10-24 will be the optimal thread.

Most silicone sealants/adhesives are notorious for failing in the marine environment

 

[jdrutten]

Any update on this? I just found a similar problem on my 306. I'd love to use butyl sealant so that the panel could be removed and reinstalled, but that doesn't seem to be a good option because there's a 3/4" gap or whatever it is between the top of the panel where the screw head sits, and the actual deck top where the threads engage. So there'd be no compression on the butyl. The epoxied threaded insert approach seems like a good idea, but if sealant alone works well enough, then I'll probably just go with that route. Are there any sealants that are better for future removal and reinstallation?

 

[artboas]

Here is an option for you.
I wouid suggest using brass or stainless inserts. 1 wouid suggest 10-24, or 1/4-20. Then, you could do is make up small starboard blocks 1” x 1”, (or round) and install these from behind using 5200 to hold them in.
They will never shift or come out.
I’ve got these in different sizes. If you need 4 if these, I’ll mail them to you.

 

[jdrutten]

Here is an option for you.
I wouid suggest using brass or stainless inserts. 1 wouid suggest 10-24, or 1/4-20. Then, you could do is make up small starboard blocks 1” x 1”, (or round) and install these from behind using 5200 to hold them in.
They will never shift or come out.
I’ve got these in different sizes. If you need 4 if these, I’ll mail them to you.

Wow! I really appreciate your generous offer @artboas , thanks! But it got me thinking more about similar options (e.g. rivnuts or well nuts, etc.). Knowing that this panel is only held by those 4 measly little screws, it suggests that the actual fastening doesn't need to be especially strong. The offending screw hole is covered by the panel, so it doesn't need to be pretty either. So I'm thinking of bonding a nut using epoxy to the top of the deck (below the panel), using a nice little fillet around the nut which will naturally divert water away from the hole while also giving the screw something a little meatier to grab onto. I'm trying to think of why this might be a bad idea, so I'd be happy to hear any reasons against it.

 

[AndyL]

Any update on this?

If you were asking me, I haven't done anything since my last post. The two holes that gave me trouble remain sealed and are not being used. The other screws seem plenty to hold the floor in place and no leaks so far, so it will stay that way until something changes.