There is a leaky fixed portlight above my galley on my 1985 H28.5. Before I begin to remove, clean, recaulk and replace, I would like to know any tricks, cautions, etc.
- Status
Trim Ring Removal and Calulking
The tricky part is the removal of the trim ring without breaking it. They really like to break where the spigots are so caution and LOTS OF PATIENCE is advised here. Be prepared to buy a new port as to my knowledge the trim rings are not sold separately. For the best leak-free setup I'd remove the port and file the coachroof port rough-in opening at a 45-degree (or slightly more) to provide a larger bead. The filings will drop down between the roof and the liner and you might want to rig something up to catch them if you're a perfectionist. This bead area is the most important part and is the only thing that keeps water out except of course for the gasket. Don't put any sealant on the inside of the boat, i.e., the overhead liner. By the time water has traveled this far it's too late; it's inside the boat, and it only makes later port removal more difficult. If the ports are black use black sealant - it holds up better under UV and it will blend in better with the port. There's nothing better than a dry boat!
The tricky part is the removal of the trim ring without breaking it. They really like to break where the spigots are so caution and LOTS OF PATIENCE is advised here. Be prepared to buy a new port as to my knowledge the trim rings are not sold separately. For the best leak-free setup I'd remove the port and file the coachroof port rough-in opening at a 45-degree (or slightly more) to provide a larger bead. The filings will drop down between the roof and the liner and you might want to rig something up to catch them if you're a perfectionist. This bead area is the most important part and is the only thing that keeps water out except of course for the gasket. Don't put any sealant on the inside of the boat, i.e., the overhead liner. By the time water has traveled this far it's too late; it's inside the boat, and it only makes later port removal more difficult. If the ports are black use black sealant - it holds up better under UV and it will blend in better with the port. There's nothing better than a dry boat!
Another thing
Lou: When you try to remove the ports, you may think about using some piano wire on a couple of sticks to help cut the caulk. Once you get the seam opened a little Island Girl Pink will help soften the caulking. You can pick up the Island Girl on the website or at Tap Plastics. It the port gets broken you can pick up new ones from Thrifty Mariner in Fl. at a very good price.
Lou: When you try to remove the ports, you may think about using some piano wire on a couple of sticks to help cut the caulk. Once you get the seam opened a little Island Girl Pink will help soften the caulking. You can pick up the Island Girl on the website or at Tap Plastics. It the port gets broken you can pick up new ones from Thrifty Mariner in Fl. at a very good price.
Use 3M adhesive remover to clean portlights
3M makes a pricey cleaner that works like a champ. At 2-3X the cost of acetone, many frugal sailors are sadly scared away. I have had several boats and wasted hours using acetone or other odd cleaners. Just use a scruffy rag (bumpy towel-like surface), chemical resistant gloves and the 3M product. And when you apply new caulk, the 3 M product on a rag aids immensely in cleanup.
3M makes a pricey cleaner that works like a champ. At 2-3X the cost of acetone, many frugal sailors are sadly scared away. I have had several boats and wasted hours using acetone or other odd cleaners. Just use a scruffy rag (bumpy towel-like surface), chemical resistant gloves and the 3M product. And when you apply new caulk, the 3 M product on a rag aids immensely in cleanup.
- Status