i am buying a 1982 33' hunter. i noticed some stains on the interior cabin walls under the chainplates also, there was some accumulated water in the storage compartment under the settee. i think it's leaky chainplates but it could be the toerails. comments and/or suggestions help!
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Matt
similar problem on H27
I have a '83 H27 that has similar leaking points. The previous owner ran a bead of caulk along the toe rail, didn't help much. As soon as it warms up I intend to get the crew together and we will remove and seal each of the bolts that hold the toe rail on. I'll post and tell you how it worked. Matt.
I have a '83 H27 that has similar leaking points. The previous owner ran a bead of caulk along the toe rail, didn't help much. As soon as it warms up I intend to get the crew together and we will remove and seal each of the bolts that hold the toe rail on. I'll post and tell you how it worked. Matt.
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Bill O'Donovan
Water happens
Same thing happens on newer models, in my case a 29.5 from 1995. I removed the teak strips behind the cushions because they were inadvertently sealing the water into the cabin liner. Whenever I open the boat now, I run a roller over the liner to squeeze out the moisture. It's amazing how much accumulates overnight. All this, and I cover the boat with a tarp from stem to stern!
Same thing happens on newer models, in my case a 29.5 from 1995. I removed the teak strips behind the cushions because they were inadvertently sealing the water into the cabin liner. Whenever I open the boat now, I run a roller over the liner to squeeze out the moisture. It's amazing how much accumulates overnight. All this, and I cover the boat with a tarp from stem to stern!
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Ed Schenck
Chainplates seem notorious. . . .
from my readings on this site for two years. You should be able to eliminate the toerails as a source of leaks rather easily. On my 1979 H37C the bolts are all accessible, albeit not easily. We use visegrips on a large phillips screwdriver topside and someone with a 7/16" deepsocket below. Sure would have been nice if they had tapped some stainless barstock instead of individual nuts every six inches for 37 feet!
from my readings on this site for two years. You should be able to eliminate the toerails as a source of leaks rather easily. On my 1979 H37C the bolts are all accessible, albeit not easily. We use visegrips on a large phillips screwdriver topside and someone with a 7/16" deepsocket below. Sure would have been nice if they had tapped some stainless barstock instead of individual nuts every six inches for 37 feet!
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Bill of Sandpiper
Leaky chainplates
If the staining is under the chainplate knees and especially if there is water damage to the finish on the teak parts, it likely is chainplates. Remove the covering plate on the deck then completely remove chainplate from knees. It helps if the spar is out! Let the deck dry out completely. Over drill covering plate holes, dry and fill with thickened epoxy. Replace chainplates and bung the bottom side of the opening with tape or something. Then syringe in thickened epoxy from the top to completely seal the joint. Use lots of caulking when you replace the covering plate. This should hold you for several years. Good luck!
If the staining is under the chainplate knees and especially if there is water damage to the finish on the teak parts, it likely is chainplates. Remove the covering plate on the deck then completely remove chainplate from knees. It helps if the spar is out! Let the deck dry out completely. Over drill covering plate holes, dry and fill with thickened epoxy. Replace chainplates and bung the bottom side of the opening with tape or something. Then syringe in thickened epoxy from the top to completely seal the joint. Use lots of caulking when you replace the covering plate. This should hold you for several years. Good luck!
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steven f.
port holes
Sometimes the port holes leak and at seems to be coming from someplace other than the window. Check the port holes above the leak, make sure they drain properly and the gaskets are okay.
Sometimes the port holes leak and at seems to be coming from someplace other than the window. Check the port holes above the leak, make sure they drain properly and the gaskets are okay.
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Walt G.
fix for chainplate leaks
The chainplates on my 37c leaked for years. Nothing worked for more than a season or so -- not epoxy, not 5200, not tub&tile bathtub caulking -- nothing. In the course of sailing, movement of the rig would eventually break the seal between the chainplate and whatever I was using to seal things up, and water would wick down the chainplate to the inside of the boat. Eventually, I came upon a satisfactory fix based on the recommendation of a surveyor, whose name I unfortunately don't remember. The approach was to make sort of a cofferdam around the chainplate so the water doesn't get to wick down it. I found some rubber sheets about the twice the thickness and consistency of inner tubes and cut out a rectangular gasket to fit under the chainplate trim plates that screw into the deck. To get a good seal, I carefully cut a rectangular hole in these gaskets to match the chainplate cross section, using an exacto knife. I made the hole a tight fit so water can't weep down the chainplate even without sealant -- it gets shed off by the rubber gasket instead. I then gooped the bottom of this gasket up with some automotove RTV sealant, and reinstalled the trim plates with the rubber gasket underneath. For a bit of overkill, I added a second rubber gasket on top of the trim plate, gooping that down with RTV as well. But I think the second gasked really isn't necessary. I just figured I'd add it while the shroud was disconnected. If you are neat in your cutting, the installation doesn't look bad at all. I'm about 2 years into this experiment, and the chainplates sealed this way have yet to leak. Good luck.
The chainplates on my 37c leaked for years. Nothing worked for more than a season or so -- not epoxy, not 5200, not tub&tile bathtub caulking -- nothing. In the course of sailing, movement of the rig would eventually break the seal between the chainplate and whatever I was using to seal things up, and water would wick down the chainplate to the inside of the boat. Eventually, I came upon a satisfactory fix based on the recommendation of a surveyor, whose name I unfortunately don't remember. The approach was to make sort of a cofferdam around the chainplate so the water doesn't get to wick down it. I found some rubber sheets about the twice the thickness and consistency of inner tubes and cut out a rectangular gasket to fit under the chainplate trim plates that screw into the deck. To get a good seal, I carefully cut a rectangular hole in these gaskets to match the chainplate cross section, using an exacto knife. I made the hole a tight fit so water can't weep down the chainplate even without sealant -- it gets shed off by the rubber gasket instead. I then gooped the bottom of this gasket up with some automotove RTV sealant, and reinstalled the trim plates with the rubber gasket underneath. For a bit of overkill, I added a second rubber gasket on top of the trim plate, gooping that down with RTV as well. But I think the second gasked really isn't necessary. I just figured I'd add it while the shroud was disconnected. If you are neat in your cutting, the installation doesn't look bad at all. I'm about 2 years into this experiment, and the chainplates sealed this way have yet to leak. Good luck.
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Ben
Aquarium Sealant
I agree with Walt that nothing that is made for this purpose seems to work, His Idea sounds very sound and I will try it if mine doesn't follow through. I starting using Aquarium grade sealant after all the other try's and it has held up very nicely after many sails but it has been only 6 months so we will see. We do get a bit of rain here so it has been tested allot.
I agree with Walt that nothing that is made for this purpose seems to work, His Idea sounds very sound and I will try it if mine doesn't follow through. I starting using Aquarium grade sealant after all the other try's and it has held up very nicely after many sails but it has been only 6 months so we will see. We do get a bit of rain here so it has been tested allot.
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