Leaking

[Randy Kolb]

Gilly

Gilly, to fix that gudgeon leak buy a piece of rubber gasket material. Cut it out slightly larger than the gudgeon bracket. Use an ice pick to poke the holes where the bolts go through the gasket and into the transom. Use just a bit of silicon on the bolts as you tighten them. Use no other caulk, the rubber gasket does the trick.

 

[edeshea]

stuffing box leak?

Although this was on a power boat it would apply to any through the keel installation of an inboard. Took several months to find this one after the boat tried to sink at it's mooring. Appeared to be in the area of the stuffing box, it was a bit wet around there. Hauled the boat. Checked the stuffing and nut(s), didn't seem to be that. On getting the boat ready for launch next year more or less accidently sluiced around the stuffing box fitting with a pressure hose and discovered the water shot from around the shaft underneath but ONLY when the jet was directed at the aft end of the stuffing box's keel fitting (ie: the bronze fitting which was clamped (screwed) to the wooden inner keel. Problem was? The screws had corroded and started to pull loose, not enough to see but enough to LEAK. How about that?e

 

[Daryl]

Leaks

After ten years of chasing leaks on a Hunter 34 I am convinced the factory designed that vessel to leak so owner would buy a new vessel some day

 

[Steve]

Impossible

My boat, a Hunter 240 in it's 3rd year, does not leak, yet. In my experience once a leak starts it is impossible to fix.

 

[Tony Gore]

Idiot made leak (me)

This applies to the MacGregor 26M.I hate holes through the hull. Thus I went to great lengths to siting the transducer for the depth sounder and decided to try it on the inside of the hull, above the water ballast tank.The reasoning is that when powering, rudders and board have to be up, and so draft is about 20" (to bottom of outboard engine), and when sailing, the water ballast tank is full.I ended up using some plastic waste pipe and creating my own mounting, as the one I bought was not suitable. However, I wanted to support it whilst the plastic padding to hold it in place set, and provide some support at the top end.Thus, I fixed a P clip to the longitudinal fibreglass stiffening member; drilled two holes but only used one.After the first trip, there was water in the bilge - quite unusual. Turns out that the longitudinal member is part of the water ballast. Holes plugged with stainless steel screws and silicone sealant.As far as I can tell, there is no mention of the fact that this stiffening member is full of water as part of the ballast system in the handbook, which is why I have written about it here - to save anyone else from making the same mistake.The only other time I have had water in the 26M is in a following sea - I think it goes up the bilge pump outlet. Round here, the water is shallow and so you can get quite steep short waves, especially in a force 7 from the WSW - fetch is 3000 miles all the way to the (US) East Coast. I would be interested if anyone else has experienced this, and if anyone has got a fix.

 

[Capt. Mike]

water water every where

I have been a sailor from way back in 1968. The first thing I learned is that the sea will always try to find a way in, and I MUST ALWAYS, find a way to keep it out. No "TRYING" on that point. How many screws secure you bow light, your outboard motor mount, you deck cleats and any of the many other screws that go through a deck fitting or through your hull. Above or below the water line? Remember that the water line shifts due to the number of people onboard, the angle of the wind your sailing into or away from and something as simple as sail trim can affect what is below or above the "water line". Chain plates are always a good way to seep into the innerds of a sailboat. Water may be our mistress, but she is not out friend.Every through hull, screw, mount or chainplate MUST be sealed. No excuses, no "whys"?. The sea is a cruel mistress and will claim you for her own.My aged Venture 25 can put out in a decent blow and come back with a bilge as dry as a bone.You can keep her tight and right! You must look, see what is actually seeping, weaping or leaking. I spray a light film of corn starch around the deck to hull seam on the inside on severe days to track leaks. We will never beat the sea, but we can shift the odds in our favor.The little work is a small price to pay to safely enjoy this experiance.Night All,Capt. Mike,San Diego, CA

 

[Pam]

Boats in the water all year round

I think that those who have to keep their boats on the dry for at least 6 months of the year do not have the leak problems that those of us who use them all year round do. My '76 Hunter 33 has some small leakage at the stuffing box after using the engine, especially if for long periods of time. The only other leaks I have had are where we had to replace the chain plates (Electrolysis caused one of these to break while under full sail out in the gulf strea). The only other leaks that are obvious are from failure to properly secure hatches.But a boat that spends 23 months in the water between outhauls is more likely to leak.

 

[capri 22 809]

It can happen to anyone

My boat is pretty dry, but every time you go out sailing the boat bends. Or something gets pulled on. So you run the risk of a new leak.

 

[jim lubinsky]

Leaking Stancions ODay 27

OK - have resealed the stanchions 3x's now and still leaking. The original had thin rubber membrane between stanchion plate and deck. Created new ones cause the old were rotted. Used 4200 caulk. Still it leaks. What next???

 

[Ross]

Jim, you probably have two

problems;1st the stanchions are not adequately supported with backing plates, or the deck is cored and gives under the load on the stanchions.2nd the bedding compound is being squeezed out when the bolts are tightened. For the first problem, bore over size holes, epoxy solid locust or teak plugs into the holes and redrill the fastener holes, countersink them and install backing plates that are larger than the stanchion bases.Countersinking the fastener holes before applying the bedding compound will solve the second problem.

 

[Charles]

Capri 25

Windows were leaking sealed one year, still had leaks. Found water below deck in cabin, drilled hole between cabin deck and hull at companionway (horizontally). Finally stopped leaks coming from rudder housing and scuppers. Both had cracks in them, water leaked into space below deck lockers and into cabin. Once I sealed all leaks with epoxy and caulking, boat was bone dry from the topside. Still under wraps, so don't yet know if there are new leaks. Happy sailing all.

 

[cptzeon]

Some do some don't

I had a Cal 21 that sailed great but took on a bit of water. Nothing that couldn't be bilge pumped out every few days, but I could never really locate the source. I have a Mac 26x now that stays dry and a Prindle catamaran that keeps one hull dry and one hull wet inside. Go figure!

 

[Roger N]

The cabin windows on my Evasion 37 leak. I think I will have to remove and refix. Any thoughts on the best sealing compound?

 

[Rick]

Leaking windows

Replacing windows was our project last summer. We intalled new Beckson portlights and used the recommended caulk Dow 795. No leaks. Due to the cost of individual replacement parts, it was more cost effective to install new portlights.

 

[NautiDuck]

Jim, another way

Another way to help the caulk be effective is to not fully tighten the bolts. Leave a gap under the stanchion plate equal to about the thickness of a quarter. Let the caulk seal overnight. Then tighten a bit more. This makes the caulk create a better "gasket" and doesn't force all the caulk out. Randy

 

[Walter]

Mast Leaks

On my '99 OC 321 when on the hard apparently water comes down the mast & ends up behind the elec panel on a small shelf there.When in the water we experience a lesser amount.With all those openings on the mast I don't think its possible to avoid the problem.Which boat do you have?Walter Morse.

 

[Mystic51]

pressurize your boat

I have chased leaks all over my old boat. I resealed just about everything. After still finding some leaks where the water was traveling far from its source (in the cabin liner) I tried the leaf blower idea. I closed all the hatches, taped plastic over the companion way, and pumped the boat full of air. I then brushed diluted dish soap over all fittings, ports, etc. I very quickly found the leaks that I had missed and now have a dry boat. It works. Jeff

 

[Woody]

Hunter 240 companionway leak

I have a 2000 Hunter 240 and the water gathers on the glass top of the companionway and once the water builds up it over flows the wooden framing and pours down into the cabin. I need a creative to stop that leak because chalk is not an option, no place to put it.Suggestions.....?

 

[Paul J. Rusyniak]

WOODY

The companionway cover available at this chandlery will solve your problems!Pauls/v Pretty Lady

 

[Peter]

Only in the rain, only to the bilge

My Cat27 is very dry, except in the rain. Every time there is a storm, my normally dusty bilge ends up with up to a half gallon of water in it. Not enough to turn the bilge pump on. No water or evidence of any drips on any cushions, the carpet, or in any lockers (except one small spot under one window, with a few drops-not enough to cause the problem). I put newspapers under the hull liner, up against the hull, and still no visible drips or wet spots showed up.I has me baffled. I just know I need open the bilge after every rainstorm, and use a big sponge.