I have just purchased my first boat and it’s a 1977 Pearson 30. Everything about this boat is perfect but the windows. These sons of guns leak badly. My question is how do I re-seal the windows and with what type of sealant. I want to seal these windows up tight the first time so that I wont run into any more water problems for a while. Thanks Paul
leaking windows
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Good Luck
Hi Paul, Most of the old windows leak and they are difficult to fix. First off you need to determine if the glass itself is leaking or the entire window frame. We removed the window and reinstalled it only to discover that it really was the glass and the rubber gasket that holds the glass in that had dried out and was causing the leaking. I used creepy crack last year and it fixed the leaks. I don't know how long it will last but it is a very easy fix and has lasted two seasons so far. The creepy crack is an acrylic that seals the rubber gasket and so far as worked fine. It can be found a West Marine for about $8.00. I know there are more permanent fixes out there but I am always happy for a quick and inexpensive fix when I can find one.
Hi Paul, Most of the old windows leak and they are difficult to fix. First off you need to determine if the glass itself is leaking or the entire window frame. We removed the window and reinstalled it only to discover that it really was the glass and the rubber gasket that holds the glass in that had dried out and was causing the leaking. I used creepy crack last year and it fixed the leaks. I don't know how long it will last but it is a very easy fix and has lasted two seasons so far. The creepy crack is an acrylic that seals the rubber gasket and so far as worked fine. It can be found a West Marine for about $8.00. I know there are more permanent fixes out there but I am always happy for a quick and inexpensive fix when I can find one.
leaky windows
Pearson portlights were made by the same vendor who did them for CAL saleboats. I found a vendor for replacement seals (both frame and glass) from one of the sites--topic was extensively covered in a thread last year.
Pearson portlights were made by the same vendor who did them for CAL saleboats. I found a vendor for replacement seals (both frame and glass) from one of the sites--topic was extensively covered in a thread last year.
sometimes it isnt the windows that leak but the handrails or even the screws for the sliding hatch. To determeni this have someone get inside then flood the windown. if no leaks go to the handrails and flood them and observe what happens. then go up top to the sliding hatch screws to watch what happens. If the hatch or handrail screws are leaking sometimes the water travels down inside the inner liner and exits through the inside of the windows so we think the windows are leaking when it is from some other location. But maybe after all this your windows could be leaking. Use boat life silicone caulk if you go that route because all caulk will shrink. Boatblife shrinks the least i'm told ed grogan-pearson 300Savin Hill Yacht Club-Boston Ma.
WINDOWS
GOTTA TAKE EM OUT, CLEAN HOLE AND WINDOW LIPS, PUT SEALER ON WINDOWS IN GOOD QUANTITY, PUT EM BACK IN CALULK AROUND ON BOTH INSIDE AND OUT, AND IN SIX MONTHS THEY WILL DO IT AGAIN
GOTTA TAKE EM OUT, CLEAN HOLE AND WINDOW LIPS, PUT SEALER ON WINDOWS IN GOOD QUANTITY, PUT EM BACK IN CALULK AROUND ON BOTH INSIDE AND OUT, AND IN SIX MONTHS THEY WILL DO IT AGAIN
Ed is right, leaks are not what they seem
I have been chasing leaks for 3 plus years with some luck. And in each case, the leak was not at the port but instead it was somewhere else and running between the liner and deck then emerging around one of the ports. Check out "Rebedding Hatches" under projects on our website http://www.sailingseadragon.com and Dan's 10M site http://pearsoninfo.net/info/fixed_port_anatomy/fixed_port_anatomy.htm with information on the fixed ports. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I have been chasing leaks for 3 plus years with some luck. And in each case, the leak was not at the port but instead it was somewhere else and running between the liner and deck then emerging around one of the ports. Check out "Rebedding Hatches" under projects on our website http://www.sailingseadragon.com and Dan's 10M site http://pearsoninfo.net/info/fixed_port_anatomy/fixed_port_anatomy.htm with information on the fixed ports. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
the windows the hard way
I took my "74" P 30's windows apart 3 times before I got it right. having said that, it was a good learning experience. The hose test advice is good, but in mycase the windows leaked from the lowest application of water meaning either frame or window glazing {sealing material between glass and aluminum frame) material. It's nice to have two people to handle the glass just for security reasons. Mark around the inner aluminum clamp ring. Remove all the screws, loosening them evenly to prevent bending the ring. Using a thin putty knife or some other thin sharp tool, starting at the bottom of the EXTERIOR frame, cut any adhesive materials carefully untill the frame is free to be removed. On a soft surface (the port bunk with suitable cover protection is fine) clean all adhesive residue from the outside fram flang. Look on the outside of the frame and find the joint were the frame comes together after being bent into its elongated shape. Between te inside and outside of the frame . you should find a gob of silicone at that location. dig it out somehow. Under thhese silicone gobs are screws that hold the upper and lower frame pieces together. They are small and they are TIGHT. mAKE SURE THE TOOL REQUIRED FIT TIGHTLY AND THE SCREW SLOT OR SOCKET IS CLEAN. Mabe your situation will be different than mine but that screw wasreally tight. After the screws are removed carefully seperate the top and bottom sections of the frame from the glass. Take the neoprene glazeing channel stuff off of the glass or out of the frame. Clean everything spotless. My window leaks stemed from the deterioration of that window glazeing or SPLINE as the glass trade calls it I bought the spline material at a window repar place for abbbout thirty cents a foo foot,its the only good deal in this project. The spline material is for plate glass, or glass aboit 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick. I put the new spline in place around the glass and left it 1/2 inch long where it meets. swab some week soapy water solution in the lower frame channel and on the lower half of the the outside of the spline. Heres where two people com in handy.On a firm and flat surface, push the window and spline firmly down into its channel. Making sure the glass is in to full depth at all points is the big concern and patience and care will pay off. I FORGOT AN IMPORTANT POINT, THE BUTT JOINT SHOULD BE IN THE UPPER FRAME IN TE SPLINE MATERIAL. When you are satisfied with the lower frames position, proceed to install the upper the same way, by pushig the glass down onthe upper frame. Keep the spline balanced on the glass so it dosent get tucked down on one side or the other. Slow steady pressure and soapy lube works better than brute force which could damage the spline. Put those small screws back in. if the holes dont line up the frame channels are not on deep enough. When the frame and window assembly is finished ,clean everything, put a gob of silicone over the screws, put a bead 1/4 inch in diameter all around the outside flang 1/2 inch from outsid of flange. Carfully put assembly into opening with minimum shifting and reinstall insid clampring using a few evenly spaced screws to start and then all the screws to be tightened in rotation to slowlyand evenlytight. The outside sealant can be either 3M 5200 or Boatlife caulk. I have owned this bboat for 28 years and I feel thaat most of the problems that we have delt with were caused by the manufactuers inatention to details . Considering the intense use. the aage of my boat, I have no complaints about the pearson's demands on my time.
I took my "74" P 30's windows apart 3 times before I got it right. having said that, it was a good learning experience. The hose test advice is good, but in mycase the windows leaked from the lowest application of water meaning either frame or window glazing {sealing material between glass and aluminum frame) material. It's nice to have two people to handle the glass just for security reasons. Mark around the inner aluminum clamp ring. Remove all the screws, loosening them evenly to prevent bending the ring. Using a thin putty knife or some other thin sharp tool, starting at the bottom of the EXTERIOR frame, cut any adhesive materials carefully untill the frame is free to be removed. On a soft surface (the port bunk with suitable cover protection is fine) clean all adhesive residue from the outside fram flang. Look on the outside of the frame and find the joint were the frame comes together after being bent into its elongated shape. Between te inside and outside of the frame . you should find a gob of silicone at that location. dig it out somehow. Under thhese silicone gobs are screws that hold the upper and lower frame pieces together. They are small and they are TIGHT. mAKE SURE THE TOOL REQUIRED FIT TIGHTLY AND THE SCREW SLOT OR SOCKET IS CLEAN. Mabe your situation will be different than mine but that screw wasreally tight. After the screws are removed carefully seperate the top and bottom sections of the frame from the glass. Take the neoprene glazeing channel stuff off of the glass or out of the frame. Clean everything spotless. My window leaks stemed from the deterioration of that window glazeing or SPLINE as the glass trade calls it I bought the spline material at a window repar place for abbbout thirty cents a foo foot,its the only good deal in this project. The spline material is for plate glass, or glass aboit 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick. I put the new spline in place around the glass and left it 1/2 inch long where it meets. swab some week soapy water solution in the lower frame channel and on the lower half of the the outside of the spline. Heres where two people com in handy.On a firm and flat surface, push the window and spline firmly down into its channel. Making sure the glass is in to full depth at all points is the big concern and patience and care will pay off. I FORGOT AN IMPORTANT POINT, THE BUTT JOINT SHOULD BE IN THE UPPER FRAME IN TE SPLINE MATERIAL. When you are satisfied with the lower frames position, proceed to install the upper the same way, by pushig the glass down onthe upper frame. Keep the spline balanced on the glass so it dosent get tucked down on one side or the other. Slow steady pressure and soapy lube works better than brute force which could damage the spline. Put those small screws back in. if the holes dont line up the frame channels are not on deep enough. When the frame and window assembly is finished ,clean everything, put a gob of silicone over the screws, put a bead 1/4 inch in diameter all around the outside flang 1/2 inch from outsid of flange. Carfully put assembly into opening with minimum shifting and reinstall insid clampring using a few evenly spaced screws to start and then all the screws to be tightened in rotation to slowlyand evenlytight. The outside sealant can be either 3M 5200 or Boatlife caulk. I have owned this bboat for 28 years and I feel thaat most of the problems that we have delt with were caused by the manufactuers inatention to details . Considering the intense use. the aage of my boat, I have no complaints about the pearson's demands on my time.
Also look at
your leaks closely. I chased a leak near my port window for a couple of years. A year ago, for another reason, I took off the companionway slider and as part of putting it back together, rebedded the aluminum strips that it slides on. NO MORE LEAK! It must have been that the screws that held the aluminum strip in place were letting water pass through, and it was running through the overhead and just happened to come out near the window. Good luck with yours.
your leaks closely. I chased a leak near my port window for a couple of years. A year ago, for another reason, I took off the companionway slider and as part of putting it back together, rebedded the aluminum strips that it slides on. NO MORE LEAK! It must have been that the screws that held the aluminum strip in place were letting water pass through, and it was running through the overhead and just happened to come out near the window. Good luck with yours.
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