Leaking Shaft
- Thread starter Blackacre
- Start date
Samdalsanto,
A certain amount of water is suppose to leak through this thype of through hull packing gland. Something on the order of one drop or so, every 1-3 minutes (I don't remember off hand what the exact numbers are).
I'd also suggest that if you are experincing more than that, you consider gettting rid of this nylon gland and replacing it with one that has a brass compression nut assembly.
My Hunter is over 20 years old and I was compelled to do exactly that after discovering that it was next to impossible to dig the packing out of these nylon glands.
The New Brass gland I installed was about $100 delivered and works a whole lot better than the cheap original one.
Regards,
James
A certain amount of water is suppose to leak through this thype of through hull packing gland. Something on the order of one drop or so, every 1-3 minutes (I don't remember off hand what the exact numbers are).
I'd also suggest that if you are experincing more than that, you consider gettting rid of this nylon gland and replacing it with one that has a brass compression nut assembly.
My Hunter is over 20 years old and I was compelled to do exactly that after discovering that it was next to impossible to dig the packing out of these nylon glands.
The New Brass gland I installed was about $100 delivered and works a whole lot better than the cheap original one.
Regards,
James
James,
Thanks for the info. There is much more then a few drips, more like a steady flow of water. Somewhere around 0.2 liters per minute.
So does this appear to be a leaking packing gland or signs of a larger problem?
Is this a do-it-yourself type project?
Anything else I should know about this project?
Thanks for the info. There is much more then a few drips, more like a steady flow of water. Somewhere around 0.2 liters per minute.
So does this appear to be a leaking packing gland or signs of a larger problem?
Is this a do-it-yourself type project?
Anything else I should know about this project?
Hi,
You're not the first here with this issue, great photos.
1. Do a search on this forum, upper right, blue tab, on Hunter plastic stuffing box - there's been lots written.
2. This covers the principles, along with links to Maine Sail's website:
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing
Good thing you noticed, easy to fix.
You're not the first here with this issue, great photos.
1. Do a search on this forum, upper right, blue tab, on Hunter plastic stuffing box - there's been lots written.
2. This covers the principles, along with links to Maine Sail's website:
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing
Good thing you noticed, easy to fix.
Consider a dripless shaft seal for your next haul out and forget about the drip. There are several good choices pss shaftseal and lasdrop are two. I use the latter. Not expensive and they work well.
Your packing gland should drip 2-5 drips per minute while the shaft is turning. No drips when in neutral/stopped.
Repacking is easy 3/16" material.
Look for some instructions on Youtube. You need to cut the rings before you start removing the old material. There may also be a nylon washer in there that you need to pull back to access the old packing.
You do not need to pull the boat to do this, but you should be prepared with some towels to stem any flow as you repack.
Repacking is easy 3/16" material.
Look for some instructions on Youtube. You need to cut the rings before you start removing the old material. There may also be a nylon washer in there that you need to pull back to access the old packing.
You do not need to pull the boat to do this, but you should be prepared with some towels to stem any flow as you repack.
consider the dripless seal.....
at $300 plus install you can buy like 50 years worth of packing.
It is not that hard to tighten a nut IMHO
at $300 plus install you can buy like 50 years worth of packing.
It is not that hard to tighten a nut IMHO
Not a hard job at all. Try to borrow a set of wrenches made specifically for doing the job. The lock down to nut size. Otherwise you will need to find a couple of thinner pipe wrenches or monkey wrenches (like a pipe wrench but jaws are fixed and without teeth). What will be a little nerve wracking is adjusting the gland with the motor running. Make sure your boat is secure and you may want to run in reverse pending if you are on a mooring or the direction you are facing in the slip.
You do NOT need to do this. You shouldn't do this. It would be dangerous.
What you do is tighten it at rest.
THEN you run the engine and watch it. If it is dripping too much, you shut the engine off, tighten it, and do it again.
Do NOT adjust the box with the engine running or in gear.
Dripless are a good deal but know the pros and cons. While a packing gland will give plenty of notice before complete failure a dripless can fail quite fast without much warning. Before doing anything, go ahead and remove the cotter pin holding the nylon parts to allow the nut to be tightened. Take two wrenches and slowly tighten the nut until the flow of water is contained. With the engine running and shaft turning back off a little until you get a flow rate of 3-5 drops per minute. Now the flex inside the gland may be old and damaged and no amount of tightening may stem the flow of water and at this point the flex may need replacement. I will defer to those with experience with the Nylon glands as some indicate it is next to impossible to remove the old flex and recommend replacing the gland. Sometimes tightening the gland will not completely stop the flow of water but will significantly reduce it to a few drops which may buy some time before having to do the job.
I recommend not replacing the packing in the water. Try what Stu Jackson suggests....adjusting packing nut in water with engine off then iteratively adjust. I've had success with this. Replace packing at next haul.
Blackacre,
One parting comment.
If you do decide to replace this part, take the time to mark the relationship/alignment of the two (2) round drive plates that connect the propellor shaft to the transmission (i.e. the one with four bolts through it, in your pictures above).
You'll have to remove this plate to in order to get the new packing gland on the propellor shaft.
If you have also been experiencing any abnormal amount of engine induced vibration (at certain RPM levels), this would be a good time to check your engine mount and shaft alignment.
Good luck in any case.
James
One parting comment.
If you do decide to replace this part, take the time to mark the relationship/alignment of the two (2) round drive plates that connect the propellor shaft to the transmission (i.e. the one with four bolts through it, in your pictures above).
You'll have to remove this plate to in order to get the new packing gland on the propellor shaft.
If you have also been experiencing any abnormal amount of engine induced vibration (at certain RPM levels), this would be a good time to check your engine mount and shaft alignment.
Good luck in any case.
James
I replaced mine with a volvo dripless seal. They are simple and do not fail suddenly. Last for years but you do have to be out of the water to fit.
http://www.murrayyachtsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Rubber_Stuffing_Box_Eng1.pdf
I think I used the 25mm dia one as the tube size fitted exactly
http://www.murrayyachtsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Rubber_Stuffing_Box_Eng1.pdf
I think I used the 25mm dia one as the tube size fitted exactly
Shaft Seal
I have the same arrangement on my 1991 Hunter 30T. This is not a normal stuffing box. This OEM device has served me well with no problems. I have recently discovered that this is a GW Morse Type Stuffing Box and can be seen on page 36 of the Glenwood Marine catalog. I found a dismantled photo somewhere on-line when I had the same questions you have about 10 years ago. Every 2 or 3 years I may have to tighten the nut turning very easily by hand to stop leakage with the shaft stopped. Simply remove the locking cotter pin and turn the nut one flat and replace the cotter. That should address any leakage issues you may have. Possibly replacement seals may be available from Glenwood.
I have the same arrangement on my 1991 Hunter 30T. This is not a normal stuffing box. This OEM device has served me well with no problems. I have recently discovered that this is a GW Morse Type Stuffing Box and can be seen on page 36 of the Glenwood Marine catalog. I found a dismantled photo somewhere on-line when I had the same questions you have about 10 years ago. Every 2 or 3 years I may have to tighten the nut turning very easily by hand to stop leakage with the shaft stopped. Simply remove the locking cotter pin and turn the nut one flat and replace the cotter. That should address any leakage issues you may have. Possibly replacement seals may be available from Glenwood.
Attachments
Last edited:
Go with dripless
I had one on my 40.5, and I have one on the 49x
They just work great. I'd never have a packed stuffing box again.
On my cs33, it was always a chore to check, tighten, etc.
Dripless seals work beautifully when installed properly.
I had one on my 40.5, and I have one on the 49x
They just work great. I'd never have a packed stuffing box again.
On my cs33, it was always a chore to check, tighten, etc.
Thanks everyone. Based on the advice here I tightened the unit one point (1/6 turn) and it stopped leaking. It was actually very easy to do. I monitored the drip with a small pan underneath both in the fixed position as well as when under power. Currently it drips around 2-4 times per minute @ 1000 RPM and not at all @ stop.
I'll probably change this out with a dripless system during the next hall out.
I'll probably change this out with a dripless system during the next hall out.
Shaft seal hands down
I agree with artboas. I will never, ever have a packing gland again. PSS shaft seal on my Catalina 34 now my H466. I installed both myself and will do it again if I ever buy a boat without one.
I agree with artboas. I will never, ever have a packing gland again. PSS shaft seal on my Catalina 34 now my H466. I installed both myself and will do it again if I ever buy a boat without one.
You need to "burp " the coupling after launch. It gets the air out.
You just need to compress slightly until water trickles through , then release
The mechanic at my yard said many folks need a new shaft when retrofitting to the dripless seals. Is this true with the PSS? I am hoping I can retrofit to one of these if my shaft isn't scored.