Ok,I know this has been addressed at some point. Have not found it in the archives. I have a 28, and all 4 opening ports are now leaking. This past summer I removed the trim ring and resealed the port and the trim ring. The ports leak into the cabin at the point where the channel is. It does not leak at the seal, as they were replaced first. It is leaking from behind the screws, immediatley behind the channel. I hope you are following me. All 4 ports leak in two places. Any ideas? They do not leak fast. Slow drips that run down the interior. HELP.
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Lleaakeaks
I live in a brand new 450 and the hatches and ports leak but sometimes it is condensation also, i assume we are talking about deck hatches
I live in a brand new 450 and the hatches and ports leak but sometimes it is condensation also, i assume we are talking about deck hatches
Port/Coachroof Joint Seal
You didn't say what year the boat is so since the ports have spigots I assume it's from sometime in the '80s and the ports are Beckson. On our '88 H-35 there were small drain holes drilled in the spigots that exited right at the trim ring - bad idea. Don't know if this was a dealer or factory idea; it wasn't Becksons. Anyway, the water would flow through the holes and instead of continuing past the trim ring and onto the deck it went along the bottom of the spigot and inside the boat. There was a very poor sealant job under the spigot. Recommendation: Buy new ports - they're about $65 ea and come with new trim rings in case one of the old ones is broken, and the boat will look really good with the new "glass". With the ports removed put a 45-degree camber, more or less, around the opening on the OUTSIDE of the coachroof opening; grind or file, what ever works. You'll notice that the inside of the trim ring has a camber too and the two cambers should face eachother. Make the camber the full thickenss of the fiberglass and it's no big deal if the opening becomes slightly larger as a result. By Dow sealant #785 (middle number?) from Hunter - it works for me and I'm into my fourth year with nary a leak(!). Insert new port from inside, screw into place, and put sealant around the port in the camber area. There should be a really large bead so that when the trim ring is put on it will totally fill the void where the cambers face eachother and some should even squeeze out between the trim ring and the port. Put a small amount of sealant around the outer edge of the trim ring, just enough to stick it to the coach roof and slip over the port. Clean any messy sealant with stove alcohol. The stuff will get onto everything - fingers, clothes, and deck. Have lots of paper towles, a garbage bag, and someone to pass you stuff (like paper towles). Do not drill drain holes in the spigots, at least not hear the trim ring. This setup will provide a maximum amount of sealant in contact with the coach roof and the port. If your ports are black that's good because black sealant can be used - it has maximum UV resistance. Don't put any sealant on the inside of the port inside the boat - it doesn't do any good and it only makes the port more difficult to take off again, should you ever need to remove it. If the screw holes (inside) are stripped put a dab of epoxy in the screw hole and it might be a good idea to do this anyway.
You didn't say what year the boat is so since the ports have spigots I assume it's from sometime in the '80s and the ports are Beckson. On our '88 H-35 there were small drain holes drilled in the spigots that exited right at the trim ring - bad idea. Don't know if this was a dealer or factory idea; it wasn't Becksons. Anyway, the water would flow through the holes and instead of continuing past the trim ring and onto the deck it went along the bottom of the spigot and inside the boat. There was a very poor sealant job under the spigot. Recommendation: Buy new ports - they're about $65 ea and come with new trim rings in case one of the old ones is broken, and the boat will look really good with the new "glass". With the ports removed put a 45-degree camber, more or less, around the opening on the OUTSIDE of the coachroof opening; grind or file, what ever works. You'll notice that the inside of the trim ring has a camber too and the two cambers should face eachother. Make the camber the full thickenss of the fiberglass and it's no big deal if the opening becomes slightly larger as a result. By Dow sealant #785 (middle number?) from Hunter - it works for me and I'm into my fourth year with nary a leak(!). Insert new port from inside, screw into place, and put sealant around the port in the camber area. There should be a really large bead so that when the trim ring is put on it will totally fill the void where the cambers face eachother and some should even squeeze out between the trim ring and the port. Put a small amount of sealant around the outer edge of the trim ring, just enough to stick it to the coach roof and slip over the port. Clean any messy sealant with stove alcohol. The stuff will get onto everything - fingers, clothes, and deck. Have lots of paper towles, a garbage bag, and someone to pass you stuff (like paper towles). Do not drill drain holes in the spigots, at least not hear the trim ring. This setup will provide a maximum amount of sealant in contact with the coach roof and the port. If your ports are black that's good because black sealant can be used - it has maximum UV resistance. Don't put any sealant on the inside of the port inside the boat - it doesn't do any good and it only makes the port more difficult to take off again, should you ever need to remove it. If the screw holes (inside) are stripped put a dab of epoxy in the screw hole and it might be a good idea to do this anyway.
Thanks
Thank You. I remember seeing that little rascal but it didn't occur to me, until you mentioned it. I'll let you know how it goes. David
Thank You. I remember seeing that little rascal but it didn't occur to me, until you mentioned it. I'll let you know how it goes. David
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