For the past month, there has been a steady drip (one drop every three seconds) coming from the bottom of the Oberdorfer water pump on my Universal M-25. (At the block, not the cover for the impeller.) When I replaced the impeller as standard maintenance two months ago, I pulled the shaft partially out while I was changing the impeller. I am now getting a lot of white smoke from the exhaust on startup which lasts for about one minute and then disappears. Is there any chance that I ruined the seals on the water pump shaft and that water is now getting into the oil? Is it difficult to replace the oil seals on the pumps?
- Status
leaky pump
Definitely sounds like a bad seal. There is a seal on the back of the impellor section to keep the water in the pump, then a gap which is where it's leaking from, then another seal to keep the oil in the engine. Remove the whole pump and get a kit to rebuild. You may have to replace the shaft if it's worn and won't seat against the seal. I don't know about the smoke. Even with a bad seal water shouldn't get into the engine (that's why there are 2 seals with a gap between) and water in the oil would show up as milky oil.
Definitely sounds like a bad seal. There is a seal on the back of the impellor section to keep the water in the pump, then a gap which is where it's leaking from, then another seal to keep the oil in the engine. Remove the whole pump and get a kit to rebuild. You may have to replace the shaft if it's worn and won't seat against the seal. I don't know about the smoke. Even with a bad seal water shouldn't get into the engine (that's why there are 2 seals with a gap between) and water in the oil would show up as milky oil.
Can ruin your engine
That drip is dropping salt water on the aluminum gear case. In time it will eat a hole in the gear case possibly into a pressure side oil channel. It will cost $6,000 to fix. Fix the leak.
That drip is dropping salt water on the aluminum gear case. In time it will eat a hole in the gear case possibly into a pressure side oil channel. It will cost $6,000 to fix. Fix the leak.
Similar problem, different pump.
My Jabsco raw watwer pump developed a slow drip. It was more of a nuisance than anything else but I sent it in and had all the seals replaced. Still had the drip. Sent it back and they could not get it to leak. I put it back on and still had the drip. I finally bought a new pump and had the drive gear transfered from the old pump to the new one. No more leak. If your pump is belt driven, check to make sure the belt is not too tight. If, like mine, it is gear driven, I'd suggest new seals and then have a machine shop pull and reseat the drive gear. If the gear is out of alignment, the seals won't seal. I took mine to a national chain automotive parts place and they charged me $10 to pull and reseat the gear. Good luck
My Jabsco raw watwer pump developed a slow drip. It was more of a nuisance than anything else but I sent it in and had all the seals replaced. Still had the drip. Sent it back and they could not get it to leak. I put it back on and still had the drip. I finally bought a new pump and had the drive gear transfered from the old pump to the new one. No more leak. If your pump is belt driven, check to make sure the belt is not too tight. If, like mine, it is gear driven, I'd suggest new seals and then have a machine shop pull and reseat the drive gear. If the gear is out of alignment, the seals won't seal. I took mine to a national chain automotive parts place and they charged me $10 to pull and reseat the gear. Good luck
Rebuild
Bill Just had the same problem on my M25XP. I had upgraded to a Sherwood pump about 5 years ago. Similar configuration to Oberdorfer. I got the parts to rebuild from Marine Diesel Direct, made up a little bearing press with wrench sockets and all is well. I found out the average pump seal life is about 5 years before a rebuild is required. GoodWinds Dave M s/v DAMWEGAS
Bill Just had the same problem on my M25XP. I had upgraded to a Sherwood pump about 5 years ago. Similar configuration to Oberdorfer. I got the parts to rebuild from Marine Diesel Direct, made up a little bearing press with wrench sockets and all is well. I found out the average pump seal life is about 5 years before a rebuild is required. GoodWinds Dave M s/v DAMWEGAS
Water in the oil?
Check your oil for any milky-looking "swirls" on the dip stick. If there are, or the oil level is higher than usual, you may have a problem. The white smoke could be due to air in the fuel (fuel fliters changed, too?). If it's colored smoke (bluish) it could be antifreeze from the heat exchanger. These comments may help. And I hope I am wrong.
Check your oil for any milky-looking "swirls" on the dip stick. If there are, or the oil level is higher than usual, you may have a problem. The white smoke could be due to air in the fuel (fuel fliters changed, too?). If it's colored smoke (bluish) it could be antifreeze from the heat exchanger. These comments may help. And I hope I am wrong.
You have choices
Bill Much depends on the # of engine hours. Choices are to replace the entire pump or just have the seals swapped out on the pump you have. I chose to replace mine at about 1,000 engine hours, it was doing the same thing as yours. The saltwater drip also tends to create rust down below, at the oil pan connection. Be sure to clean and paint down there to prevent further corrosion. Also check the engine mount. On my Oberdorfer you can remove the shaft and get it back in without any problem. There were two shafts, one with an indentation and the newer one with an extruded end. The latter will come and go easily. When you have the pump out, check that out, too. The marinedieseldirect and Torrenson's websites have blowup diagrams of the pump assemblies. The nuts on the studs took me two days to get off !!! (use PB Blaster, not liquid wrench). I replaced them with nylock nuts. The shaft has nothing to do with the white smoke - the smoke is normal when warming up, I'll bet you're just a little more sensitive to it now that you pulled the shaft. The issue is the two seals inside, check out the pictures noted above and you'll see. Stu
Bill Much depends on the # of engine hours. Choices are to replace the entire pump or just have the seals swapped out on the pump you have. I chose to replace mine at about 1,000 engine hours, it was doing the same thing as yours. The saltwater drip also tends to create rust down below, at the oil pan connection. Be sure to clean and paint down there to prevent further corrosion. Also check the engine mount. On my Oberdorfer you can remove the shaft and get it back in without any problem. There were two shafts, one with an indentation and the newer one with an extruded end. The latter will come and go easily. When you have the pump out, check that out, too. The marinedieseldirect and Torrenson's websites have blowup diagrams of the pump assemblies. The nuts on the studs took me two days to get off !!! (use PB Blaster, not liquid wrench). I replaced them with nylock nuts. The shaft has nothing to do with the white smoke - the smoke is normal when warming up, I'll bet you're just a little more sensitive to it now that you pulled the shaft. The issue is the two seals inside, check out the pictures noted above and you'll see. Stu
Sherwood is not necessarily
an "upgrade." Many have found that the cover of the Sherwood, with its nuts on the back of the housing face, difficult to deal with. Oberdorfer is a fine pump. Here's the direct link, see item 10. Stu
an "upgrade." Many have found that the cover of the Sherwood, with its nuts on the back of the housing face, difficult to deal with. Oberdorfer is a fine pump. Here's the direct link, see item 10. Stu
Changing the oil seals on Friday
Thanks for all of the info. I am going to change the oil seals on Friday. I have usually ordered engine parts through Torresen's, but have ordered them (cheaper) through a boatyard in Solomon's - got them faster and with no additional shipping - I always assumed it would be more expensive that way. Well, I'm always learning something.
Thanks for all of the info. I am going to change the oil seals on Friday. I have usually ordered engine parts through Torresen's, but have ordered them (cheaper) through a boatyard in Solomon's - got them faster and with no additional shipping - I always assumed it would be more expensive that way. Well, I'm always learning something.
- Status