Leaking Hatch

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Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
I posted a request on this subject, but under "Poirt Holes"; I should have singled it out, so here I am:
My forward hatch leaks; not much, but leaks
Do I shave off the old gasket, to make it smooth and level with the metal case where it fits into, and then attach a new one over it?
Can one get a new one?
Is there a groove for it to fit, much like the port holes, that have a groove where the gasket snuggles into?
Quite annoying, could not sleep
But at least I now know where all the leaks are, and you good people pointed out to me what to do ( toe rail, chain plates, etc)... just waiting to see if Ed has found the link to repair the dogs setup
 
Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Hi Jorge
I used to find water on the floor and on the left bunk every time it rained. I had to leave a piece of plastic over the area to catch the rain. Not much, just enought to p.... you off. I realised that the forward hatch was not closing as tightly as it should. I could push it out some from the inside slightly. I removed the two swinging leavers by loosening the phillips screws and ground1/8" off the plastic pivot point. That allowed the latches to press tightly against the frame and no more leaks.
However, the best leak stopper I found was 4 yards of sumbrella and a sewing machine. During last month's cold spell, I learned how to sew and made covers for anything I could get my hand to. Winches, hatches, pedestal, etc, all got covers. Even the portholes received sun screen covers to cut down on heat and fading. Results. Now the boat is finally dry. I took some pictures from my office wet window this morning. It has rained all night and the inside is totally dry.
Stay Dry!

Jose Guidera
 

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Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Jorge;

If you are suspecting the gaskets, a quick and inexpensive fix is to get yourself some automotive grade self-stick-on gasket strip. Your favorite marine supply store will also have similar stuff. On my forward hatch, the original gasket had been permanently pressed pretty flat by the hatch cover surface. So I didn't need to shave the surface. I simply cleaned the old gasket, then wiped it with lacquer thinner to get any oils/wax off and sort of reactivate the dried out surface. Then I just put on the new automotive gasket material. One thing is to be very sure of is don't stretch out the new gasket material at all as you are applying. Otherwise, it will try to pull back to its original length and it won't stay in place around the corners. This solution of course isn't as good as digging out all the old gasket and then replacing with new gasket. But it has worked fine for me. But also here in normally cool San Francisco, the hatches really aren't opened very often.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
I like the sowing Jose: did you attach with studs on the edges?

And Rardi: thanks for the good advice also: I assume the gasket is self adhesive on one side, correct?
 
Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
I like the sowing Jose: did you attach with studs on the edges?


I used snaps because studs are hard to walk on while barefoot:). I did use studs on the companionway cover. Also snaps are a whole lot cheaper that the "common sense" studs.

Jose
 
May 31, 2007
776
Hunter 37 cutter Blind River
Sewing projects are great and covers or umbrellas over hatches are super - except when sailing in conditions where water is sweeping the decks. Then the covers aren't there and the water will pour in. More serious if in salt water as then nothing seems to dry out.

I got my gasket material from Holland Marine Products in Toronto. Let them know you have Bomar Offshore hatches, with the amalgam crossbars. Peter will set you up with the right gasket material. For glue he suggests contact cement from an automotive supplier. I am not aware of any plastic parts in the Bomar deck hatches on the Cherubinis, but perhaps that is a later change by Hunter. My 37c is a 1981 model.

If the leak is between the hatch's metal flange and the deck, then the whole thing will need to be removed for rebedding. On removing my hatches and the 37 as well as my former 33, I found many voids and cracks where the liner and the top skin join. Much rot and voids in the raised lip. Also, most of the screws had stripped and provided little pressure on the caulking. Lots of digging, drying,filling and prepping before rebedding. The other place both boats leaked loads was under the runners for the companionway hatch and the 37's spray hood. Not tough rebuilds, but essential to prevent continued water infiltration.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Ed
Rardi
Sandpiper
Cannot thank you enough: all of you come firing on all cylinders everytime I post a request
Thank you
No, the leak is not at the base: it appears to be whwere the lid joins the hatch, so I think a gasket will do just fine; I do not fancy removing the whole hatch... besides, it is not a big leak, but needs to be fixed: I always ask for the name of the product, so if you have a name, please let me know, that way I can just go buy it outright
Regards to all,
Jorge
 
Jun 3, 2004
298
'79 Hunter 33' HUN33190M79L Olympia
Also, be sure the "leak" is not condensation. Neither of my hatches leak but this winter both of them "leaked" condensation because of the moist air, heat in the cabin and so forth. If there is any condensation on the glass, you probably have no leak.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Stephen
Good point, but I checked: it's not condensation; that happens too, but the water comes in when it rains heavily... light rain does not seem to be a problem.
I think cleaning up the old gasket ( as Rardi suggests) and apply a new one will solve the problm
In South Africa I worked for 20 years with adhesive tapes, so I think a 18mm. single sided adhesive black closed cell fom will do
The thickness should be around 0,8-1mm. thick ( sorry, this is metric now)
I will have to look for someplace that sells that kind of stuff
I must make sure it is SINGLE sided adhesive, or else will close the hatch for good... now that right there will solve the problem for good!
 
May 27, 2004
2,056
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
The original gasket material is closed cell foam, but it's round. It's available here at the SBO store. Just measure, add an inch or so for each hatch, cut at an angle and you're back to original spec.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
ggrizzard
Thank you: do you have the link or the name so I can order right away?
This is something I want to do right away!
 

coxjam

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Sep 7, 2009
68
Hunter Vision-32 Texas Gulf Coast
How do you know what kind of hatch you have? I just bought a 1989 Hunter Vision 32 and there are 2 cabin top hatches on either side of the companionway next to the winches. The hatch closes down onto this gasket that sits into a raised grove. The gasket material is completely gone. Can some body advise? Thx
 
May 27, 2004
2,056
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Well, if it has a groove in the base, measure the width of the groove and it's circumference and call Dave at SBO store. It's likely the same material.
 
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