It's been discussed in numerous threads about the infamous leaking hatch on the H26 and 260. I took a good look at my hatch the other weekend and wondered if you pulled the hatch all the way forward so that you could see the back stop and siliconed it like Crazy Dave said would you get any leaking in the cabin? The problem then would be how would you lock or latch it since it would overhang by about an inch or so from the hatch boards? Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
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Bill O'Donovan
You can't win
They say that the more you sail the boat, the more it gets broken in and prone to leaking. Better to work from within and simply pull the cushions to the table when you close up. Identify the wet spots and puts small towels down to sop up the water before it runs into the bilge. This procedure takes little time and isolates the problem more manageably. At least for me.
They say that the more you sail the boat, the more it gets broken in and prone to leaking. Better to work from within and simply pull the cushions to the table when you close up. Identify the wet spots and puts small towels down to sop up the water before it runs into the bilge. This procedure takes little time and isolates the problem more manageably. At least for me.
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Randy
my fix
I found out quickly if the hatch is pulled forward there is no leaking. My fix was to use 2 locks which gives me the extra inch or so to pull the hatch all the way forward. One lock goes through the hasp and the other goes through the latch. Then the locks are locked to each other. It works for me it's been in slip for 2 weeks with no leaks.
I found out quickly if the hatch is pulled forward there is no leaking. My fix was to use 2 locks which gives me the extra inch or so to pull the hatch all the way forward. One lock goes through the hasp and the other goes through the latch. Then the locks are locked to each other. It works for me it's been in slip for 2 weeks with no leaks.
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Mark
Cooooweeeeee I've fixed it.
Yep. Got a piece of Jarrah and shaped the side that meets the plexi glass slightly concave. So that the plexiglass drains to each side. The piece of Jarrah was slightly wider than the original teak strip so I was able to reduce the hight profile a little. I then used sicaflex to attach "new" section and thru bolted with stainless bolts' nuts and washers to replace the existing screws. A bead of sicaflex each side of Jarrah (just in case) and onto the yacht it went. Pressure test with a hose. Not really just a steady downfall of water "just like heavy rain". The result. "Dryazabone" inside. Golly gosh and I thought it could not be done!
Yep. Got a piece of Jarrah and shaped the side that meets the plexi glass slightly concave. So that the plexiglass drains to each side. The piece of Jarrah was slightly wider than the original teak strip so I was able to reduce the hight profile a little. I then used sicaflex to attach "new" section and thru bolted with stainless bolts' nuts and washers to replace the existing screws. A bead of sicaflex each side of Jarrah (just in case) and onto the yacht it went. Pressure test with a hose. Not really just a steady downfall of water "just like heavy rain". The result. "Dryazabone" inside. Golly gosh and I thought it could not be done!
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Paul H
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Tom Wootton
Randy
You said you pulled the lexan hatch forward--did you mean aft? If you pull it forward won't there be a gap between the aft edge of the lexan and the hatchboards?
You said you pulled the lexan hatch forward--did you mean aft? If you pull it forward won't there be a gap between the aft edge of the lexan and the hatchboards?
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Mark
Jarrah
Oh come on you guys havn't you heard of Jarrah. It is one of Western Australia's finest hardwoods. It is almost like Mahogony in colour, is very very hard and is used to make the most beutifull furniture bu tis also used for framming houses etc etc. Jump on the net and look it up!!
Oh come on you guys havn't you heard of Jarrah. It is one of Western Australia's finest hardwoods. It is almost like Mahogony in colour, is very very hard and is used to make the most beutifull furniture bu tis also used for framming houses etc etc. Jump on the net and look it up!!
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Rob
weatherstripping
I used a fat length of weather stripping to effectively widen the teak strip and close that gap. I took out the teak strip and cut the insulation to match the curvature, then screwed the wood back in, and ran a bead of caulk where the foam stripping meets the lexan. Its been 4 seasons, and still fine. Bye the way, there will always be a little space in there, so if you shoot a hose forward, some water will get in. The tradeoff is that this space offers a bit of ventilation to keep moisture from building up underneath. $.02
I used a fat length of weather stripping to effectively widen the teak strip and close that gap. I took out the teak strip and cut the insulation to match the curvature, then screwed the wood back in, and ran a bead of caulk where the foam stripping meets the lexan. Its been 4 seasons, and still fine. Bye the way, there will always be a little space in there, so if you shoot a hose forward, some water will get in. The tradeoff is that this space offers a bit of ventilation to keep moisture from building up underneath. $.02
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