Leaking deck blocks!

[mister_j]

I have very minor leaks through the deck blocks that lead lines to the cabin from the mast on my Oday 35. The leakage is small but I fear for the integrity of my deck core, so I’d like to reseat them and the hardwood they’re mounted on. Does anyone have experience with this project?

I removed the barrel nuts from the interior and the 4 screws from the block...but not budging. I am assuming the 4 bolts are the only attachments through the deck. Looks like butyl between the block and the hardwood, and either life caulk or 4200 under the hardwood. I don’t want to crack the block housing or the hardwood mount.

I’m going to try to redo each block on a June good weather day...reasonable?

as usual, thanks all!

 

[justsomeguy]

reasonable?

As to the hardwood, a chisel going with the grain should separate it from the deck.
Unless it's actually 5200.

 

[mister_j]

God help me if it’s 5200!

 

[mister_j]

This is the block. I’ve replaced a couple of the corroded barrel nuts (ceiling image) and waiting for rain to see if the leak is sealed, but I’d still like to reseat the block and mount (Block image). Any Oday owners done this?
thanks again

 

[kappykaplan]

I had a similar problem with an organizer block on my boat. There's no reason why you can't reseat/reseal the block. Use butyl tape as sealant and appropriate backing washers inside the cabin.

 

[justsomeguy]

waiting for rain to see if the leak is sealed

No garden hose?

 

[dmax]

I mounted new deck organizers last year - they didn't need to be raised so they're mounted right on the deck. Drilled through the deck and epoxy potted the holes. Your organizer looks like it was added by a PO. I would try to remove the organizer and mount - you may have to whack the bolts from the bottom to break their grip - once they are loose, try and pry the organizer off the block. Chisels, guitar strings etc. can be used to break the seal. The wood mount can be easily replaced if you damage it, which may help in the removal. I would replace it with starboard. Removing and resealing the block and mount is the only way to make sure it doesn't leak anymore. When you have it off, get a moisture reading of the area to see how far the water migration has gone. The good thing about the end grain balsa in the deck is that moisture migration is slow so it may not be too bad. I have resealed and epoxy potted most of the fittings on my deck (a lot of work!) if you have any more questions.

 

[Tally Ho]

I have been going through and rebedding deck hardware on my O’Day 322, little by little…usually when I find a leak. Deck fills, cleats, stanchions, handrails.

I use butyl tape for most rebedding projects…but for your block I might use some caulk/adhesive, and some butyl tape around the screws/barrel bolts.

I think the turning blocks on my 322 are regular bolts thru the deck, with washers and nuts in the cabin.

Hope you get some rain! (you are not in Texas or Louisiana).

Greg

 

[Ward H]

I’ve replaced a couple of the corroded barrel nuts (ceiling image) and waiting for rain to see if the leak is sealed,

Best practice is not to seal thru bolts from inside the cabin.
If you seal the leak from the inside and the leak continues, the water will stay inside the deck allowing it to saturate any wood in the deck or to run to other areas.
Your better off seeing a drip from a thru bolt, which lets you know the leak has not been fixed on the deck side.

We can't tell from the photos if the spacing block is needed but I agree with @dmax , remove the block, reattach the deck organizer and see if the lines run fair. If you do need a block to raise the deck organizer, then install a new one.

Ditto on the butyl tape!

 

[shemandr]

I think the 4 fasteners on the organizer just go into the hardwood. I don't think they go into or thru the deck. The 3 screws in the cabin go into the hardwood thru the deck. If it's leaking in the cabin it has to be from the hardwood to deck seal. The hardwood has to come off in my view. Remove the 3 fasteners in the cabin and have at it. At worst you can sacrifice the hardwood. You don't want to pull a section of deck up.

 

[mister_j]

I mounted new deck organizers last year - they didn't need to be raised so they're mounted right on the deck. Drilled through the deck and epoxy potted the holes. Your organizer looks like it was added by a PO. I would try to remove the organizer and mount - you may have to whack the bolts from the bottom to break their grip - once they are loose, try and pry the organizer off the block. Chisels, guitar strings etc. can be used to break the seal. The wood mount can be easily replaced if you damage it, which may help in the removal. I would replace it with starboard. Removing and resealing the block and mount is the only way to make sure it doesn't leak anymore. When you have it off, get a moisture reading of the area to see how far the water migration has gone. The good thing about the end grain balsa in the deck is that moisture migration is slow so it may not be too bad. I have resealed and epoxy potted most of the fittings on my deck (a lot of work!) if you have any more questions.

Ok, good advice, dmax...and I think replacing with starboard is a great idea

 

[mister_j]

I think the 4 fasteners on the organizer just go into the hardwood. I don't think they go into or thru the deck. The 3 screws in the cabin go into the hardwood thru the deck. If it's leaking in the cabin it has to be from the hardwood to deck seal. The hardwood has to come off in my view. Remove the 3 fasteners in the cabin and have at it. At worst you can sacrifice the hardwood. You don't want to pull a section of deck up.

Thanks, I think that’s exactly what I’ll do with both blocks...not looking forward to the mess, but to keep the core sound I’ll epoxy fill and remount on starboard, as dmax suggests.

 

[mister_j]

Best practice is not to seal thru bolts from inside the cabin.
If you seal the leak from the inside and the leak continues, the water will stay inside the deck allowing it to saturate any wood in the deck or to run to other areas.
Your better off seeing a drip from a thru bolt, which lets you know the leak has not been fixed on the deck side.

We can't tell from the photos if the spacing block is needed but I agree with @dmax , remove the block, reattach the deck organizer and see if the lines run fair. If you do need a block to raise the deck organizer, then install a new one.

Ditto on the butyl tape!

Thanks Ward, no inside sealing is needed, you’re right. And

I have been going through and rebedding deck hardware on my O’Day 322, little by little…usually when I find a leak. Deck fills, cleats, stanchions, handrails.

I use butyl tape for most rebedding projects…but for your block I might use some caulk/adhesive, and some butyl tape around the screws/barrel bolts.

I think the turning blocks on my 322 are regular bolts thru the deck, with washers and nuts in the cabin.

Hope you get some rain! (you are not in Texas or Louisiana).

Greg

I have been going through and rebedding deck hardware on my O’Day 322, little by little…usually when I find a leak. Deck fills, cleats, stanchions, handrails.

I use butyl tape for most rebedding projects…but for your block I might use some caulk/adhesive, and some butyl tape around the screws/barrel bolts.

I think the turning blocks on my 322 are regular bolts thru the deck, with washers and nuts in the cabin.

Hope you get some rain! (you are not in Texas or Louisiana).

Greg

Thanks Tally ho...I use butyl for nearly everything, but I think LifeCaulk for the mount and butyl for the screws is indeed the best idea. I will probably go to through bolts as well...I think the PO used the same short bolts to raise the block onto wood and used barrel screws to tighten them down as they didn’t penetrate into the cabin. At the next dry spell, I’ll do it after work. Rain here today...it would be nice to be able to wish it to Texas, but that might be as difficult as removing these blocks!