I've got a 1985 S2 11 meter aft cockpit sloop. I've had occasional leaks at the chain plates. The deck was not originally sealed, and I removed the chainplates a few years ago, removed wet balsa, dried the area as best I could for a few days with a hair drier, and sealed the deck around the chain plates with West epoxy. Removing those 12" bolts from the upper shroud chainplates was quite a job, but I enlarged the holes slightly in the laminated plywood stringers a bit and greased the bolts with bees wax when I put them back. I used Sikaflex to seal the chain plates to the now sealed deck, but the hull must work enough when beating that the sikaflex doesn't remain attached to the now sealed deck. Water then runs down the shrouds past the deck and into the cabin below. I've recently sealed the area around the chain plates with automotive goop, and that works for a year or two, but it eventually pulls away too. Is there a better solution?
leaking chain plates
- Thread starter Tom Fisher
- Start date
Tom,
sikaflex makes a primer that will stick to stainless steel. lightly sand the base of the chainplates, clean it, prime it, and then put 3M 5200 or 4200. It will hold much better and longer if you prime it.
i have removed the little SS plate that used to be around the chainplates and sealed the screw holes with epoxy.
http://forums.s2.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=157960
sikaflex makes a primer that will stick to stainless steel. lightly sand the base of the chainplates, clean it, prime it, and then put 3M 5200 or 4200. It will hold much better and longer if you prime it.
i have removed the little SS plate that used to be around the chainplates and sealed the screw holes with epoxy.
http://forums.s2.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=157960
Tom, I had the same issue at purchase. I went through the same process but sealed with butyl tape. Mainesail runs this site which is very helpful:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
Butyl is appropriate above the water line as long as the sealed item has fasteners. It's worth considering. It's easy to work with and inexpensive.
SC
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
Butyl is appropriate above the water line as long as the sealed item has fasteners. It's worth considering. It's easy to work with and inexpensive.
SC
Do not think twice about using 5200. You will invent new words down the road when you try to remove it. I've always used Lifecaulk with some success but migrating to butyl tape. Whatever is used, the problem is getting compression as their is no bottom side. So it's a maintenance function to keep track of..
Make certain that ALL previous silicone products are removed from the fiberglass and stainless before you try the butyl tape. The only sure way to remove all the past life caulk or silicone is to use a good solvent adhesive remover, like 3M adhesive remover, then carefully sand with 400 wet sandpaper, just the area you plan to put the butyl tape over. We removed all the chainplates years ago and pulled out the wet balsa, replaced with thickened epoxy, then resealed with butyl tape under the little stainless plates. We have never had a drop inside even with very heavy rain. Going on 4 years with the butyl tape. Using Life caulk, we were replacing every other year.