Leaking 2GM20F

[Ken13559]

My engine leaks oil at the gasket behind the crankshaft pulley. Question is if the leak stops when oil level is midway between high and low mark on the dip stick, is it ok? Also can I run the engine normally if oil falls to 25% level of dip stick mark?

 

[anchorclanker]

The two marks signify "full" at the upper mark, and bottom mark for the lower limits of "safe". As long as its above the bottom mark, your "safe. Some refer to the bottom as the add line, as it is generally a quart/liter, between the two marks. But its really the safe range.

Is this a new leak, or something ongoing? If the engine is tilted back to where, with the engine full of oil it hits the spinning crankshaft, its going to spit out oil until its at a happier level. But if you have a bad gasket you should probably replace it.

 

[Ken13559]

This was an existing leak which I was trying to fix, thinking it was from the Oil Sump Pan. Bought the pan gasket and then to realise the leak actually came from higher up. If I could make do without changing the leaky gasket it would be great 'cos to change means removing the whole engine to shop floor and strip the front portion. Seems alot of work for a "minor" fix.

 

[onecoolair]

This was an existing leak which I was trying to fix, thinking it was from the Oil Sump Pan. Bought the pan gasket and then to realise the leak actually came from higher up. If I could make do without changing the leaky gasket it would be great 'cos to change means removing the whole engine to shop floor and strip the front portion. Seems alot of work for a "minor" fix.

Have similar problem on my 30gm30 .... Not enough surface area around bolt hole for gasket to get a good seal .... I see it as yanmar design flaw...... Here is what I did.... Get some red symtex from the auto store . Remove bolts do this one bolt at a time in that. Then wipe clean ... Fill bolt hole. Slowly slide bolt back in let sit a few hours. Then finger tighten . Wipe away excess. Next day torque bolts . Trim away any excess with razor. This may get you by for a while stopping the oil leak. I have had replacement gasket stored in nav station for about 10 years now till I could get around to it. The small oil leak I had recently was say two years ago was at the bolt right behind the main pulley. Removed the pulley redid the symtex at that bolt ... So far the problem as not comeback. One of these days eventually I or someone will have to get around to tearing down the entire front of engine to replace this gasket.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Never Removed the Seal ..........................

....................... on my 2GM20F but according to SELOC, replacing that seal seems like a nice easy winter job to fill some time. Engine stays in place for the work.

I like using both the Yanmar shop manual and the SELOC manual when I get into engine maintenance ............. each one has its good points. Unfortunately, someone (who will remain nameless) dropped my $80.00 Yanmar shop manual into the water this last winter so I don't have that to show you.

The attached PDF (from SELOC) shows the removal of the crankshaft seal for OM and GM/HM series engines. I know, the clarity is lousy and I almost broke the scanner trying to copy it. I put it into PDF format so it's a little clearer. I don't think the SELOC manual is much over $30.00.

Both manuals are well worth having if you like working on engines.

 

[Ken13559]

Ralph, I have the Yanmar shop manual (soft copy). I can send to you if you tell me an email addr. Then hopefully you could guide me to the page that say "it's a piece of cake ..." Your Seloc page do gives me a good idea.

 

[Ken13559]

Onecoolair, I suppose the symtex will not dry quickly and also do you clean out the oil trap inside the thread/bolt hole? Do I need to extract the oil before doing the symtex way?

?? I google symtex and it's either Software Company or Bomb material !! Shark! will I get investigated by your F B I ?

 

[carry on]

Engine Cooling Salt Water

My Atomic 4 cooling salt water ball valve above the hull through-hole is stuck in the open position. No leaks. I usually shut the valve off while running the engine until exhaust water stops, to flush out the water. Is it OK to leave the salt water in the engine, or is that not a wise idea? JB on "Carry On".

 

[onecoolair]

Used High Temp Red Gasket sealant

Onecoolair, I suppose the symtex will not dry quickly and also do you clean out the oil trap inside the thread/bolt hole? Do I need to extract the oil before doing the symtex way?

?? I google symtex and it's either Software Company or Bomb material !! Shark! will I get investigated by your F B I ?

Damn auto spell check ! :cussing: Should have read ...Permatex High-Temp Red RTV
I let engine rest and all the oil settle to the pan before removing bolts. Used twisted paper shop towel or clean rag to clean oil out of the bolt holes .
p.s.....Btw...I was very carefull not to over fill bolt holes so as not to have a problem of to much Permatex squeezing out and getting loose inside engine oil pan.

 

[anchorclanker]

Symtex, I think he means permatex, but a sealer in any case. Im not a big fan of bandaid fixes using excessive amounts of sealer. If gobs of it go inside the motor they can clog the oil pickup, starving the engine of oil.

I would carefully re-torque all the bolts, to see if the leakage stops or slows enough its less of an issue. You should also know that not changing oil regularly, or engines sitting dormant, will lead to leaks. Often times, a fresh oil change coupled with a thorough go around of bolt tightening and some hard extended runs can stop an engine leaking like a sieve. Failing that, replace the gasket. It doesnt look that difficult.

.

 

[anchorclanker]

My Atomic 4 cooling salt water ball valve above the hull through-hole is stuck in the open position......

You should start a new thread to ask about this specific problem. But to answer your question, anything thats run in salt water should be thoroughly flushed with fresh water after use. Saltwater sitting a bare cast iron block will destroy it quite rapidly.

 

[kloudie1]

Doesn't look like the lip seal is leaking, it looks to be coming from under the gear case cover gasket. Not a trivial job but not that bad.. pull the front pulley, pull the pin in the hand-start shaft..(remove the dome cover, not the pointy one with the seal wire through it).. the biggie is to remove the fuel injection pump, carefully preserving the shims .. Then the little cover that lets ya see the fuel rack to governor linkage.. then the gear case cover can come off. Change the gasket and the crankshaft seal.. be very careful going back up that the governor linkage correctly engages the fuel injection pump rack..
Having said all that, oil is cheap compared to having that fixed.. keep an eye on the level, keep oil absorbant and a drip pan under it and fix it when ya feel like it.
EDIT: Alternator has to come off too..

 

[Hunter82]

I think I have manual on PDF
Do u need it

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I Don't Believe..........................

Ralph, I have the Yanmar shop manual (soft copy). I can send to you if you tell me an email addr. Then hopefully you could guide me to the page that say "it's a piece of cake ..." Your Seloc page do gives me a good idea.

..................... they exactly use the words "piece" or "cake" or necessarily "it's", "a", or "of" for that matter . However, it doesn't look like that bad a job.. And seeing it's on the front of the engine, it'd probably be a piece .............. well, you get the idea.

Wow, if you've got the Yanmar shop manual on file, it would be a nice addition to the resources section here. If you send it to me through a PM, I'd be glad to do a search for "piece" and "cake" until I find something. It's gotta be in there somewhere .

 

[Ken13559]

..................... they exactly use the words "piece" or "cake" or necessarily "it's", "a", or "of" for that matter . However, it doesn't look like that bad a job.. And seeing it's on the front of the engine, it'd probably be a piece .............. well, you get the idea.

Wow, if you've got the Yanmar shop manual on file, it would be a nice addition to the resources section here. If you send it to me through a PM, I'd be glad to do a search for "piece" and "cake" until I find something. It's gotta be in there somewhere .

There could be piece or pieces but no "cake". I'll try send to you via PM but doubt it'll take attachment.

 

[Ken13559]

I think I have manual on PDF
Do u need it

I have the manual in PDF. Its >30MB. Thanks.

 

[Ken13559]

Doesn't look like the lip seal is leaking, it looks to be coming from under the gear case cover gasket. Not a trivial job but not that bad.. pull the front pulley, pull the pin in the hand-start shaft..(remove the dome cover, not the pointy one with the seal wire through it).. the biggie is to remove the fuel injection pump, carefully preserving the shims .. Then the little cover that lets ya see the fuel rack to governor linkage.. then the gear case cover can come off. Change the gasket and the crankshaft seal.. be very careful going back up that the governor linkage correctly engages the fuel injection pump rack..
Having said all that, oil is cheap compared to having that fixed.. keep an eye on the level, keep oil absorbant and a drip pan under it and fix it when ya feel like it.
EDIT: Alternator has to come off too..

Just my thought, I'll continue cleaning and topping up oil till it becomes too much trouble before I embark on replacing the gasket. I can dismantle anything no problem.:dance: THE problem is not damaging anything and putting it all back and getting it to work.
Has anyone done this before?

 

[anchorclanker]

I have not, on that "particular" engine. But have removed several 100's of timing covers. This one should be quite easy because the oil pan isn't connected to it. The cover comes straight out toward you, so all you need do is pay particular attention the the items Kloudie mentioned and any particulars noted in the manual.

And if I have learned anything over the years, its never to take things apart without a manual, if its readily available.