Leakin portlight help

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 30, 2012

IF not mistaken, the port light is sealed in with 100% architectual grade silicon which holds fast. You will need to break the entire seal and remove the window. If you can open up a little and then insert a fishing line which to cut the rest of the seal, then do so. At that point, clean off the old sealant on the boat and window. Do not use acetone on the window or it will mess up your window. Alcohol is fine for lexan.

Then I applied the sealant and placed the window back in. Generally it will hold and you will need to lightly squeeze the window back into place. Clean off any access with alcohol and then let it set for overnight.

Joe11688 · Mar 30, 2012

IF not mistaken, the port light is sealed in with 100% architectual grade silicon which holds fast.

Crazy Dave!
Do you know of any boat manufacterers who are using 100% architectual grade silicone on port lights? Has it been sticking and holding up well on your windows? I've been using DC 795 and I'm not to fond of applying that stuff. It can be messy if it gets on the deck.
Joe

smoothsailing · Mar 30, 2012

Dantodd said:
I have a ~4' long portlight that is leaking. It is glued directly to the fiberglass with no frame etc. I have considered pulling it and trying to reattach it using Dow 795" however I am pretty worried about how to keep pressure on the light for the silicone to cure. I think some have said they have repaired the seal without removing the light. However I've heard that silicone won't set up and adhere to existing silicone so I really don't know how proceed. Any advice is welcome.

Two of my ports were leaking. I read about this product, bought and tried it.

It has not rained yet so I don't know if it is working. Its supposed to rain on Saturday. I will follow up on this.

I felt that for the price it would be worth a try.

Went on E-Bay and got it there.

CAPT TOLLEY CREEPING CRACK CURE/SEALANT-BOATS FIX LEAKS - 250ml

Bill

Bill Roosa · Mar 30, 2012

As for holding it in place while the adhesive dryes I'm thinking brace a 2x4 over the port so you have some clearance between it and the lexan and then either use shims or a small wood block and a large screw. The screw goes through the 2x4 and applies pressure to the block which holds the lexam in place

FastOlson · Mar 30, 2012

There are several adhesive sealers that will hold an external lens on (unframed).
Some of those are sourced from the commercial window industry.

On the advice of a professional ship wright we installed all new Lexan lenses in 1995, and they are still completely sealed and adhered.

We used black LifeSeal, a product from the Boat Life company.
Note that you MUST float that lens on a 1/8th inch bed of sealant so that the expansion and contraction of the lens with not break the seal with cabin side.

This had not been done with our boat when it was constructed and Beneteau was notorious for mis-installing their large acrylic ports in the 80's/90's.
If you screw or clamp down hard, all the sealant is squeezed out and the port soon starts leaking...

LB

zeehag · Mar 30, 2012

Captain Tolley Will Crack Teak.

Sorry About Caps-i Dont Know How To Kill Em(no Caplock Key)-- I Have A Unique Keyboard... Sorry=---not Yelling.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 31, 2012

I use to go to a Ace hardware and have used their product for years with success.