I have a leaking toe-rail issue, I think. Has anyone experienced a leak that comes underneath the galley cabinets onto the sole. I can't seem to find anyother entry point than where the toe-rail connects. Any ideas on how to repair or verify the location on the leak without having to take up the whole toe-rail. Thanks
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I have heard talcum powder works great
I have heard talcum powder works great to locate the source of a leak. Just spread in out in the suspected area and watch during a rain storm or while spraying with a hose. I sure miss oriental. Hope to travel your way soon.
I have heard talcum powder works great to locate the source of a leak. Just spread in out in the suspected area and watch during a rain storm or while spraying with a hose. I sure miss oriental. Hope to travel your way soon.
How Did You Eliminate the Genoa Track or a Port?
How did you eliminate the genoa track or a port? I don't know the positioning of these items on a H30 but wouldn't these be upstream from where you describe? The genoa track has a lot of penetrations and takes some fair loads which could cause a break in any sealant. The genoa track bolt holes have very little clearance for the bolts and sealant doesn't work if it can't expand and contract so sealant failure could occur.
How did you eliminate the genoa track or a port? I don't know the positioning of these items on a H30 but wouldn't these be upstream from where you describe? The genoa track has a lot of penetrations and takes some fair loads which could cause a break in any sealant. The genoa track bolt holes have very little clearance for the bolts and sealant doesn't work if it can't expand and contract so sealant failure could occur.
Leakey H30, 1982
I have had the very same problem on Last Chance, 1981. After filling the water tank right to the top and out the vent, water would run out from beneath the Galley cabinet on to the sole, then I discovered the dishes stored on edge behind the stove were soaked too. I then took everything out and had the mate fill the tank again. Water was leaking from around the vent thru-hull fitting so I examined it, and replaced it, being generous with the 5200. I also applied some teflon plumbing tape to the nipple to insure a tight fit. I do not really think I've solved the problem. Thinking the tubing is old and needing replacement, I've not found a size that seems to fit well. Since, I've taken to sticking the fill hose about 2' down the filler tube, when the sound of the running water stops, the water level has risen over the end of the hose and I jerk it out. The flooding has stopped. I had a similar problem with the holding tank vent. A grossly less pleasant cleanup vs fresh water. From this I learned to frequent the pump out station more often.
I have had the very same problem on Last Chance, 1981. After filling the water tank right to the top and out the vent, water would run out from beneath the Galley cabinet on to the sole, then I discovered the dishes stored on edge behind the stove were soaked too. I then took everything out and had the mate fill the tank again. Water was leaking from around the vent thru-hull fitting so I examined it, and replaced it, being generous with the 5200. I also applied some teflon plumbing tape to the nipple to insure a tight fit. I do not really think I've solved the problem. Thinking the tubing is old and needing replacement, I've not found a size that seems to fit well. Since, I've taken to sticking the fill hose about 2' down the filler tube, when the sound of the running water stops, the water level has risen over the end of the hose and I jerk it out. The flooding has stopped. I had a similar problem with the holding tank vent. A grossly less pleasant cleanup vs fresh water. From this I learned to frequent the pump out station more often.
Chain plates, ports, stanchions can be....
Edana: I would check you chain plates, ports and stanchions before I would mess with the toe rail removal. The hull and deck where put together with a butyl putty (or something similar). One option is to just torque down each bolt to a consistent tightness before trying to remove it. Check these other items first. These other options are notorious for leaking too. Don't try to seal a leak like this from the exterior. You need to remove the hardware and bed it properly with the correct material for the different type of materials that you may be removeing/replacing.
Edana: I would check you chain plates, ports and stanchions before I would mess with the toe rail removal. The hull and deck where put together with a butyl putty (or something similar). One option is to just torque down each bolt to a consistent tightness before trying to remove it. Check these other items first. These other options are notorious for leaking too. Don't try to seal a leak like this from the exterior. You need to remove the hardware and bed it properly with the correct material for the different type of materials that you may be removeing/replacing.
Leaks from the top
I have the similar problem. Decided to make my boat dry from the sky. I am in the process of remoming the 2 toe rails. We stripped the hardware off the boat, because I intend to do other works on it, paintig the deck, ... I have one of the toe rails already off, and the bedding of the old putty stripped off. In the process we discovered that on my 1979 30 feet hunter, the bedding between the deck and hull, was on long stretch only bonded to the hull but not to the deck, so water probably came from there. Last Year we had recaulk chain plates and some stachions, but I still had water comming in. So you may start from the other reply you had to your question, but if it does not correct the situation, you will have to do as I am doing. It is a big job. We took off the toe rail on the port side. It is easier on that side because we have access to the bolts alle the way from the back to the nose of the boat. Take note that once the toe rail is off, you can take off the old bedding prying the deck to lift it up, but you have to remove some screws that are holding the hull to the deck and that are hidden under the toe rail. I beleive that when you to this job you have to do booth sides. I will use sicaflex 291, altough many say to use 3m5200. I choose not to use that product because once it will be there if you have done something wrong while putting the caulking, it will be very difficult to come back. It is important also to make sure all the preious bedding is off, and you must clean the parts to be bonded/caulked in order to be sure you will have no more water intrusion. Hope this is some help to you. They are a few documents on the net if you look to hull deck joint topics that will give you more information. Gook Luck Georges Patrick Savaria
I have the similar problem. Decided to make my boat dry from the sky. I am in the process of remoming the 2 toe rails. We stripped the hardware off the boat, because I intend to do other works on it, paintig the deck, ... I have one of the toe rails already off, and the bedding of the old putty stripped off. In the process we discovered that on my 1979 30 feet hunter, the bedding between the deck and hull, was on long stretch only bonded to the hull but not to the deck, so water probably came from there. Last Year we had recaulk chain plates and some stachions, but I still had water comming in. So you may start from the other reply you had to your question, but if it does not correct the situation, you will have to do as I am doing. It is a big job. We took off the toe rail on the port side. It is easier on that side because we have access to the bolts alle the way from the back to the nose of the boat. Take note that once the toe rail is off, you can take off the old bedding prying the deck to lift it up, but you have to remove some screws that are holding the hull to the deck and that are hidden under the toe rail. I beleive that when you to this job you have to do booth sides. I will use sicaflex 291, altough many say to use 3m5200. I choose not to use that product because once it will be there if you have done something wrong while putting the caulking, it will be very difficult to come back. It is important also to make sure all the preious bedding is off, and you must clean the parts to be bonded/caulked in order to be sure you will have no more water intrusion. Hope this is some help to you. They are a few documents on the net if you look to hull deck joint topics that will give you more information. Gook Luck Georges Patrick Savaria
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