Leak-Quest

Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
So our Hunter 306 has what I call a blind bilge and a deep bilge. The deep bilge is what it sounds like: it's deep and has an automatic and a manual bilge pump, and its walls are defined by the hull of the boat. Between the deep bilge and the companionway steps is what I call the blind bilge (sorry: no picture). It is much more shallow, and is not served by a bilge pump, nor does it drain anywhere. It contains just a couple of keel bolts and a pan that fills up with rainwater leaks... sometimes. I'm 99% sure that the walls of the blind bilge are part of one of those drop-in structural pans that are glued/tabbed to the hull. In fact, the deep bilge continues on aft, underneath the blind bilge, but that part is completely inaccessible. There are a couple of holes aft of the engine, near the stuffing box, that let leaked water exit the structural pan (which forms the floor of the engine room, as well as the blind bilge) and proceed along the hull to the deep bilge.

Anyway, for years I've had some sort of rainwater leak that finds its way eventually to the blind bilge. I've tried to find/fix it many times, including removing and resealing the entire rubrail in 2020-2022. One of my other prime suspects for the leak was the entire companionway area, which is just over the blind bilge. This year, since the mast was off over the winter, I completely tarped this area, both to keep any water out and as a test:
tarped.jpeg
I didn't go to the boat for about 4 weeks, mid-January to mid-February, and when I did, I had more water in the blind bilge than I've ever seen before: maybe 3-4 gallons, which I cleaned out. Because of the tarp, there's just no way that this came from the companionway (my prime suspect) or any of the fixtures under it, to include the mast step (which was covered as well). Given the aft-ish location of the blind bilge, I'm guessing the leak is in the aft half of the boat, which might be stanchions, bit I thought a couple of my other suspects were more likely. These include
1) engine panel in the cockpit
2) stern shower panel under the helm seat
3) old unused GPS unit bolted on the starboard side aft quarter
4) wiring bundle which comes up through the cockpit floor (under a removable panel you stand on when you're at the helm) and goes up through the steering pedestal
5) bilge blower vent on the port side aft quarter

Frankly, I think #1 is unlikely. #2 is an unknown. #3 I suspect is causing a small leak, but I can't see how 4 gallons of rain got through there. #4 seems a likely source, although it's been all gooped up with silicone for years. #5: you'll see below.

So here's the area where #4 (the wiring bundle) comes out under the removable floor in the cockpit, looking forward towards the steering pedestal:

sub_cockpit1.jpeg

Yeah: I know it's dirty. I cleaned it up, but I should have waited to take the pictures. The wiring bundle (helm instruments and engine throttle controls) can be seen exiting through the deck in the upper LHS and heading forward to run up the steering pedestal. Here's a close-up:
sub_cockpit_wires.jpeg
You can see where the dealer gooped it up with silicone years ago to try to prevent a leak into the aft cabin. It's a little hard to make out, but there is a major rain gutter just to the left of the exit point. This gutter catches all the water from the port side cockpit seats, and directs it in a firehose (if it's a big rainstorm) right at the place where the wires exit the cockpit floor. Not one of Hunter's better design ideas. This, together with the fact that I get rain water in the blind bilge in a really hit-or-miss way, makes me suspect #4 as the major source of leaks. There are many times when we get a decent rain and there's no water in the bilge. It only happens maybe 1 time out of 3, so maybe it's only when a really torrential flood hits that this gutter becomes a raging river and causes a leak? Hard to diagnose an intermittent problem. I've considered maybe cutting a short bit of PVC pipe to wrap around the wire bundle and either gooping it in place with some silicone or 4200.

Another suspect: #5, the bilge blower vent. Look what just happened this year:
vent.jpeg
This guy connects to the engine area right over the stuffing box via some 3" dryer hose. Clearly, the vent needs to be replaced. I just found and ordered a Sea-Dog vent (in stainless steel) to replace it.

Meanwhile, I've taped plastic over the vent, the shower box, the engine panel, and the GPS puck, and will await the major rain we're supposed to have on Monday to see what happens...
 
Last edited:
Sep 26, 2008
765
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
Jay,
On my 2000 340….when I was routing new VHF coaxial cables and remote Mic cables i was in that same area you are questioning. By the way, don’t be too concerned about the dirty pictures, mine are worse (but, by default, clean now).
The “goop” is just a silicone Hunter used to seal the cable entry. It turned brown through the years.
In my photos you can see it is fairly easy to pull the sealant out and reseal with better sealants today.
That could be a possible source of water entry, as water from the cockpit seat drains directly over and around it. If the bottom section of the seal has opened up a lot of water will find its way in there.

Another area you really need to look at are the 2 screws that hold the removable deck covering the steering linkage. Again while routing wires I found a leak I didn’t know I had.
Those 2 screws would drip water into a trough that is under the aft cabin ceiling, cover by an access panel with about 10 screws that hold it.
I reached in to grab a wire and found the trough full of water. Not so much that it would over flow but full.
What I had was 2 1/4 inch screws the Hunter used to screw the deck down. When all that was needed was 1 inch. Overkill for sure. The extra length pierced through the bottom and into the aft cabin.
I filled the 2 holes with 2 part epoxy, drilled new holes to a proper depth. Hope for you its as easy as filling the 2 holes as I did. In the last photo…on the left you can see the hole for the screw to hold the deck in place. There is another directly opposite on the right. Big Holes.
Hope this helps.
 

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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,454
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Gobs of silicon is never better than a proper cable deck seal. It is cheaper but still leak prone.

Try exploring deck seals from companies like Scanstrut or Seaview, as a substitution for the silicone gob…

Multi-Cable Aluminum Deck Seal
IMG_0035.jpeg



IMG_0036.jpeg
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,668
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
The curse of the false bilge floor pan.

It almost doesn’t matter what the water source is. There are many possibilities, each can be tested with a hose. And even after you find and eliminate that source, another will often begin elsewhere.

Find a convenient location to drill drain holes into the pan to the bilge.
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
Jay,
On my 2000 340….when I was routing new VHF coaxial cables and remote Mic cables i was in that same area you are questioning. By the way, don’t be too concerned about the dirty pictures, mine are worse (but, by default, clean now).
The “goop” is just a silicone Hunter used to seal the cable entry. It turned brown through the years.
In my photos you can see it is fairly easy to pull the sealant out and reseal with better sealants today.
That could be a possible source of water entry, as water from the cockpit seat drains directly over and around it. If the bottom section of the seal has opened up a lot of water will find its way in there.
@sailcapt340: Thanks. This is actually the kind of information I was fishing for. I.e., from people with a similar configuration on their 2000-2010 era Hunters. I really should do the hose test, but.. they still don't have the water turned on in our marina! All of this, I can fix even after launching, though, which I'm hoping to do on April 6th.

I've gotten water on top of that ceiling panel in the past, just as you say. But I feel like it's been dry up there some times when I've gotten water in the bilge, so... it's an intermittent mystery. My removable floor panel is held on with 4 screws: 2 on a horizontal surface up near the pedestal, and 2 on a vertical surface at the aft end. All 4 were gooped with silicone at some point, but I've had the panel on and off many times without re-gooping. Certainly, that's worth dealing with, as you say.
 
Last edited:
Feb 10, 2004
4,228
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
@jaysweet - The configuration that you describe is very much like our 1997 h40.5. I have had a leak around the wire bundle under the helm platform. It is a difficult area to seal where the wires pass through from the pedestal to the interior wiring.
The issue is that for a complete seal you must work the sealant between the wires to eliminate a water path. It becomes worse when there is the corrugated wire loom involved.

Sudbury makes a product pictured below which is an excellent sealant for small holes, cracks, and spaces. Unlike regular sealant, this stuff has the consistency of a very light oil and it will run into small openings. It will also run OUT as well, so you have to dam an area that you want to seal to keep the sealant in place while it cures. Applying in small amounts and waiting for a cure and then repeating more sealant is a technique that I have used.

Sudbury Liquid Sealant.jpg
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
Gobs of silicon is never better than a proper cable deck seal. It is cheaper but still leak prone.

Try exploring deck seals from companies like Scanstrut or Seaview, as a substitution for the silicone gob…

Multi-Cable Aluminum Deck Seal
View attachment 236908


View attachment 236909
Good idea, John. I hadn't thought of that. It's quite a few cables, though... but clearly that would be a better solution.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,454
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Glad I could help. It is sometimes lonely when your outside the box and sitting there thinking.:biggrin:
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
The curse of the false bilge floor pan.

It almost doesn’t matter what the water source is. There are many possibilities, each can be tested with a hose. And even after you find and eliminate that source, another will often begin elsewhere.

Find a convenient location to drill drain holes into the pan to the bilge.
It might not be clear from the picture, Don, but that whole pan is flat and drains towards the stern of the boat. In fact, the removable panel that you stand on at the helm (which is the "roof" of the enclosed area) takes a 90 degree bend down at the stern end, and has a large slot below that for water to exit. So the whole cockpit is designed to drain into this pan and then drain out onto the swim platform at the stern. So no need to drill holes to drain it. I will do the hose test, though, when they turn the water on so it's possible! I think that's scheduled for April 1st.
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
@jaysweet - The configuration that you describe is very much like our 1997 h40.5. I have had a leak around the wire bundle under the helm platform. It is a difficult area to seal where the wires pass through from the pedestal to the interior wiring.
The issue is that for a complete seal you must work the sealant between the wires to eliminate a water path. It becomes worse when there is the corrugated wire loom involved.

Sudbury makes a product pictured below which is an excellent sealant for small holes, cracks, and spaces. Unlike regular sealant, this stuff has the consistency of a very light oil and it will run into small openings. It will also run OUT as well, so you have to dam an area that you want to seal to keep the sealant in place while it cures. Applying in small amounts and waiting for a cure and then repeating more sealant is a technique that I have used.
Good to know: thanks, Rich!
 
May 12, 2025
94
Macgregor 22 Silverton OR
Butal tape: capillary action can carry water up 8 feet a cable bundle and or even inside an insulated conductor. That or a gremlin with a bucket.
 
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PaulK

.
Dec 1, 2009
1,522
Sabre 402 Southport, CT
Of course you know your water tanks can't leak. Are they empty for the winter?
 
Sep 26, 2008
765
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
Rich is 100% right. I cleaned my area out completely, rerouted my cable for the remote VHF through, dammed up one side and filled the whole with Sudbury. Actually forgot what I used until Rich mentioned it.
I did try to incorporate the multi cable deck seal as John suggested, but they stand to proud of the flush edge of the wall. And, at least on my boat there are 10 or so wires and cables going through there. Great if your opening a new area and I would use it all day long. But this spot needs a good sealant that can be worked in stages.
The reason I never saw any water inside the boat from the over zealous screws was, I believe, evaporation. It gets hot in that spot. Or just lucky.
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
Of course you know your water tanks can't leak. Are they empty for the winter?
The water tank is empty and bone dry for the winter (I have an access hatch and dry it out). And the water lines all have pink antifreeze in them. If this had been mid-season, potable water leaks would be something to consider, but not at the moment.
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
Rich is 100% right. I cleaned my area out completely, rerouted my cable for the remote VHF through, dammed up one side and filled the whole with Sudbury. Actually forgot what I used until Rich mentioned it.
I did try to incorporate the multi cable deck seal as John suggested, but they stand to proud of the flush edge of the wall. And, at least on my boat there are 10 or so wires and cables going through there. Great if your opening a new area and I would use it all day long. But this spot needs a good sealant that can be worked in stages.
The reason I never saw any water inside the boat from the over zealous screws was, I believe, evaporation. It gets hot in that spot. Or just lucky.
Yeah: I looked over the cable glands and thought about it a bit. It's possible that one of the rectangular ones might work, but as you say: there are _lots_ of wires going up there. The other issue is that even though the rubber plugs in the cable gland are usually split, the outer housing is not. So I'd have to unhook every single wire coming from the pedestal in order to feed them all through the outer plastic housing of the new cable gland. If and when I get to the point of doing a major new cable run, or (God forbid) replacing the throttle cable, I think I'll consider this. But for now, I think it's going to be an improvised glop of silicone goo, and maybe a PVC pipe section around the outside to act as a raging river deflector.
 
Sep 26, 2008
765
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
I’ve reached maximum capacity in that spot. My last run through with a remote Mic Cable did it. As for disconnecting “every” wire and cable, that‘s not happening. I did run a new throttle cable through there a few years back and it was actually easier than the remote Mic cable. They are more pointed and stiffer, where wire cables just bunch up and flop around on you.
Good luck in finding the source of your leak. Keep us updated.
 
Apr 25, 2024
828
. . .
The greatest diagnostic tool for leaks that I have found is colored chalk. Simply draw a line across any surface that you think water might be crossing and wait - but not too long. You want to see when the line first starts to run but not when it is washed away (though that tells you something too). If you think condensation over a large area might be a contributor, you can draw circles (or whatever) at various places on the suspected surface.
 
Jun 25, 2004
588
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
The greatest diagnostic tool for leaks that I have found is colored chalk. Simply draw a line across any surface that you think water might be crossing and wait - but not too long. You want to see when the line first starts to run but not when it is washed away (though that tells you something too). If you think condensation over a large area might be a contributor, you can draw circles (or whatever) at various places on the suspected surface.
Interesting idea. I was thinking about taping colored tissue paper in a few places. Similar idea: it'll be obvious if it gets wet.
 
Jan 5, 2021
179
Hunter 41 DS Saint Petersburg
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,454
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Something else that may be a solution. No idea how it works or how long it might stop water. I have see it used on small holes and it was amazing. The videos were validated.
Stay Afloat Emergency Form-A-Plug Leak Sealant
IMG_0038.jpeg
 
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