I recently bought a 2004 Capri 22 that has been neglected. The PO had it for 20 years and used the cabin for storage and didn't use any of the storage areas. I had to peel the cushions off the V-berth and the cabin seating areas so it's been many years since they were last removed. The boat has been stored outside with no cover for the past 20 years. When I opened the storage area under the V-berth, I was a bit surprised to find over a foot of water. The water line in the compartment showed that it had been there for a long time. There are water trails down both sides of the hull in the V-berth but they don't line up with any deck fittings. There are no signs of leakage aft of the V-berth. I lifted the stanchions and the two aft bases for the bow rail. There were no signs of leakage and the bedding was solid. I rebedded all with Life Caulk. I'm at a bit of a loss. Has anyone had experience with leakage through the rubrail track? I'm looking for other suggestions before I try to work out a 21 year old rubrail. Thank you for your input..
Leak at rub rail?
- Thread starter Stonecutter
- Start date
There can be lots of sources for water getting in the boat, especially one that has sat outside, uncovered for 20 years!
Before tearing into the rub rail, which may or may not be one of the leak paths, I would get the water out, and the inside of the boat cleaned. Then inspect for any deck hardware (cleats, winches, blocks, clutches, line organizers, etc) that may need to be rebed. The other major source of leaks in my experience are the lifeline stanchions. Assuming they are thru-bolted, these deck penetrations often leak, and may look like it is coming from the hull/deck joint.
It looks like you checked some of this already, but sometimes water can travel a ways from where it first leaked in.
Probably too cold in Muncie to hose down the boat at this point in the year, but in the spring, you could wet the boat and see if you can ID the leak.
Depending on your hull/deck joint and the rub rail cover, there can be a TON of screws to remove (top and side) of the joint. I would be looking at EVERYTHING else before tackling that job.
Greg
Before tearing into the rub rail, which may or may not be one of the leak paths, I would get the water out, and the inside of the boat cleaned. Then inspect for any deck hardware (cleats, winches, blocks, clutches, line organizers, etc) that may need to be rebed. The other major source of leaks in my experience are the lifeline stanchions. Assuming they are thru-bolted, these deck penetrations often leak, and may look like it is coming from the hull/deck joint.
It looks like you checked some of this already, but sometimes water can travel a ways from where it first leaked in.
Probably too cold in Muncie to hose down the boat at this point in the year, but in the spring, you could wet the boat and see if you can ID the leak.
Depending on your hull/deck joint and the rub rail cover, there can be a TON of screws to remove (top and side) of the joint. I would be looking at EVERYTHING else before tackling that job.
Greg
First, congratulations on your new to you Capri 22. SBO is a great source of information for your future projects. I would encourage you to use Butyl Marine Bed-It tape if you'll be re-bedding deck hardware. It will remain pliable for the life of the boat and if you ever need to remove deck hardware in the future, you or a future owner will appreciate not having to deal with caulk or silicone.
George
Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-IT Tape - Marine How To
Originally published December 2003 *Moved & Edited September 2017 Bedding With Bed-It Tape 5/20/2022 IMPORTANT UPDATE BED-IT TAPE IS BACK PURCHASE BED-IT TAPE Countersunk/Beveled Hole Over the years,
marinehowto.com
George