I'm considering leading the outhaul on my h26 aft using a block at the foot of the mast. Currently, I need to adjust the outhaul at the mast which is a problem when single-handed. I'd appreciate it if anyone who's done this could share their thoughts on what works best. Thanks.
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Is this what you're thinking?
Tim, Here's a link to the H260 manual showing an aft-rigged outhaul configuration. My H26 manual has the same diagram. (Don't know how it works, since I just bought the boat and drop her in tomorrow, but I've been reading everything I can!
) Dave
Tim, Here's a link to the H260 manual showing an aft-rigged outhaul configuration. My H26 manual has the same diagram. (Don't know how it works, since I just bought the boat and drop her in tomorrow, but I've been reading everything I can!
) Daveseparate issue, I'd say
Tim wants the downhaul that hangs out the bottom of the boom at the gooseneck run aft by attaching a block at the base of the mast. I've been meaning to make the change that the manual shows in your link. I wonder if the friction is too great and if a small block there would be better. Has anyone done this? I can hardly budge my outhaul at all the way it is now. The 2:1 might help some. The same diagram is in my 23.5 manual, but the text is missing! I didn't realize the clew blow-up was indicating the 2:1 purchase trick.
Tim wants the downhaul that hangs out the bottom of the boom at the gooseneck run aft by attaching a block at the base of the mast. I've been meaning to make the change that the manual shows in your link. I wonder if the friction is too great and if a small block there would be better. Has anyone done this? I can hardly budge my outhaul at all the way it is now. The 2:1 might help some. The same diagram is in my 23.5 manual, but the text is missing! I didn't realize the clew blow-up was indicating the 2:1 purchase trick.
Going to bring mine aft
on our '77 h27. I have a cheek block on the mast that currently brings the cruising spinnaker back to the cockpit. But the spinnaker is best deployed at the mast, including hoisting the sock with the halyard. The outhaul is an adjustment I want to make from the cockpit as the wind picks up. The outhaul comes out of the boom below the gooseneck. It would then run a little around the mast, then back through the organizer to the clutches, winch, and cleat at the cockpit. This first implementation will involve a bowline somewhere in the run since the current line threaded in the boom is not long enough. Then I will replace it with a longer line. David Lady Lillie
on our '77 h27. I have a cheek block on the mast that currently brings the cruising spinnaker back to the cockpit. But the spinnaker is best deployed at the mast, including hoisting the sock with the halyard. The outhaul is an adjustment I want to make from the cockpit as the wind picks up. The outhaul comes out of the boom below the gooseneck. It would then run a little around the mast, then back through the organizer to the clutches, winch, and cleat at the cockpit. This first implementation will involve a bowline somewhere in the run since the current line threaded in the boom is not long enough. Then I will replace it with a longer line. David Lady Lillie
2:1
To lead the outhaul aft, do just as you said. Run the line to turning block at the base of the mast, then to a deck organizer and then thru a clutch and into the cockpit. I lashed a small pulley to the grommet in the clew of the sail to get the 2:1 outhaul purchase and avoided the friction of just running the line thru the grommet. On my 26, the topping lift is just tied to the end of the boom and is thus not adjustable. I imagine the previous owner or the dealer did this to make the boat easier to rig. Not very elegant, but it works. Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
To lead the outhaul aft, do just as you said. Run the line to turning block at the base of the mast, then to a deck organizer and then thru a clutch and into the cockpit. I lashed a small pulley to the grommet in the clew of the sail to get the 2:1 outhaul purchase and avoided the friction of just running the line thru the grommet. On my 26, the topping lift is just tied to the end of the boom and is thus not adjustable. I imagine the previous owner or the dealer did this to make the boat easier to rig. Not very elegant, but it works. Ron Mehringer Hydro-Therapy
My topping lift...
...stops about 20 inches above the boom where it's attached to a pully with a clam (jam) cleat. From there a line goes down and loops around one of the sheaves in the boom, then back up to the pully and clam cleat. It works fine. Very little friction. You can hold or lift the end of the boom with one hand while hardening or easing the line in the clam cleat.
...stops about 20 inches above the boom where it's attached to a pully with a clam (jam) cleat. From there a line goes down and loops around one of the sheaves in the boom, then back up to the pully and clam cleat. It works fine. Very little friction. You can hold or lift the end of the boom with one hand while hardening or easing the line in the clam cleat.
Question about Topping Lift
Not sure what function it serves other than keeping boom from dinging up the cockpit. I've never worked with these before. I understand they are supposed to be slack. Mine runs from top of mast and is tied to a brass clip that attaches to aft end of boom. Anyone have any pictures of a simple way of rigging it so it can be easily adjusted ? If so I'd appreciate it. You guys are the best !!! I've learned an awful lot from all of you in just one season.
Not sure what function it serves other than keeping boom from dinging up the cockpit. I've never worked with these before. I understand they are supposed to be slack. Mine runs from top of mast and is tied to a brass clip that attaches to aft end of boom. Anyone have any pictures of a simple way of rigging it so it can be easily adjusted ? If so I'd appreciate it. You guys are the best !!! I've learned an awful lot from all of you in just one season.
Reefing Line
My outhaul is also difficult to tension and ease (both location and pressure on the line). I thinks its a poor design. I just keep it tensioned and suck it up in light winds. I have similar problems with reefing line; again I think it's a poor design. Wouldn't it be nice to fairlead both lines aft in such a manner that both were easy to work. Still have to go forward to hook the cringle onto the Ram's horn, but you could do so quickly. Any ideas or pictures would be great !!! Thanks again
My outhaul is also difficult to tension and ease (both location and pressure on the line). I thinks its a poor design. I just keep it tensioned and suck it up in light winds. I have similar problems with reefing line; again I think it's a poor design. Wouldn't it be nice to fairlead both lines aft in such a manner that both were easy to work. Still have to go forward to hook the cringle onto the Ram's horn, but you could do so quickly. Any ideas or pictures would be great !!! Thanks again
Reefing Line
My outhaul is also difficult to tension and ease (both location and pressure on the line). I thinks its a poor design. I just keep it tensioned and suck it up in light winds. I have similar problems with reefing line; again I think it's a poor design. Wouldn't it be nice to fairlead both lines aft in such a manner that both were easy to work. Still have to go forward to hook the cringle onto the Ram's horn, but you could do so quickly. Any ideas or pictures would be great !!! Thanks again
My outhaul is also difficult to tension and ease (both location and pressure on the line). I thinks its a poor design. I just keep it tensioned and suck it up in light winds. I have similar problems with reefing line; again I think it's a poor design. Wouldn't it be nice to fairlead both lines aft in such a manner that both were easy to work. Still have to go forward to hook the cringle onto the Ram's horn, but you could do so quickly. Any ideas or pictures would be great !!! Thanks again
Double up on the outhaul and topping lift.
If you take the outhaul line thru the cringle and back to the end of the boom , you have a 2:1, but less friction if you can find a block or slide and block instead of the friction thru the cringle. You can get a 2:1 purchase and excelent adjustment if you run the topping lift from the top of the mast tied to a Harken 404 block about a foot above the boom, then run a second line from the end of the boom up thru the 404 block and back down to a cheek block 6 inches forward of the end of the boom, then forward 2-3' thru a clam cleat to a 3" open base cleat on the boom over the cabin top. You can set up the topping lift loose on the open base cleat, but reach up and tighten it at the clam cleat from the cockpit to put more curve in the mainsail leach.
If you take the outhaul line thru the cringle and back to the end of the boom , you have a 2:1, but less friction if you can find a block or slide and block instead of the friction thru the cringle. You can get a 2:1 purchase and excelent adjustment if you run the topping lift from the top of the mast tied to a Harken 404 block about a foot above the boom, then run a second line from the end of the boom up thru the 404 block and back down to a cheek block 6 inches forward of the end of the boom, then forward 2-3' thru a clam cleat to a 3" open base cleat on the boom over the cabin top. You can set up the topping lift loose on the open base cleat, but reach up and tighten it at the clam cleat from the cockpit to put more curve in the mainsail leach.
Reply to Kevin about reefing lines
You're right, it is a poor design for the reefing lines. I changed mine 2 years ago and it works great now, I look for excuses just to reef. First of all I had a second reef added to my sail, now I can go out in a lot wind. Next I added a block on each side of the boom, 1 for each reefing line. These I located straight down from where the reefing line touches the boom. Next I replaced the lines with much longer ones, I don't remember how long but you can measure when every thing is done. These ran through the boom the same as the original one,also got rid or the jiffy reefing lines inside the boom. I ran the lines out of the boom down to 2 blocks added near the base of the mast, then through a deck organizer on the port side, on the flat surface like the one that comes with the boat on the starboard side. There is an aluminum plate under the glass there so it is easy to drill and tap for the mounting bolts. The lines are then ran through a rope clutch mounted on the flat spot ,just like on the starboard side. Again there is an aluminum plate under there ot mount it.
You're right, it is a poor design for the reefing lines. I changed mine 2 years ago and it works great now, I look for excuses just to reef. First of all I had a second reef added to my sail, now I can go out in a lot wind. Next I added a block on each side of the boom, 1 for each reefing line. These I located straight down from where the reefing line touches the boom. Next I replaced the lines with much longer ones, I don't remember how long but you can measure when every thing is done. These ran through the boom the same as the original one,also got rid or the jiffy reefing lines inside the boom. I ran the lines out of the boom down to 2 blocks added near the base of the mast, then through a deck organizer on the port side, on the flat surface like the one that comes with the boat on the starboard side. There is an aluminum plate under the glass there so it is easy to drill and tap for the mounting bolts. The lines are then ran through a rope clutch mounted on the flat spot ,just like on the starboard side. Again there is an aluminum plate under there ot mount it.
2nd part of reply to Kevin
Now to use this all you have to do is 1.Tighten up the topping lift 2.Lower the main and hook on the rams horn 3.release the boom vang and let the main sheet have a little slack in it 4. Pull the reef line tight , use the winch to pull the sail down to the boom, close the rope clutch 5. Loosen the topping lift, reset the boom vang, pull up the main, and loosely tie the sail to the boom. I single and double reef single handed all the time.works great.
Now to use this all you have to do is 1.Tighten up the topping lift 2.Lower the main and hook on the rams horn 3.release the boom vang and let the main sheet have a little slack in it 4. Pull the reef line tight , use the winch to pull the sail down to the boom, close the rope clutch 5. Loosen the topping lift, reset the boom vang, pull up the main, and loosely tie the sail to the boom. I single and double reef single handed all the time.works great.
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