Curious if anyone has a late 70s early 80s model 23 that has figured a good way to lead the main halyard to the cockpit without rubbing the handrails on the deck too much? I do a lot of sailing alone and any and all info will be greatly appreciated!!
Leading main halyard aft
- Thread starter Winsome23
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Buy an autopilot for your tiller and that's all you'll ever need. Get used to walking on your boat to work your mainsail, do reefing, or setting the anchor. Use one hand for yourself and one for the ship and you shouldn't have a problem when you're out sailing by yourself. I've been doing it for years and haven't fallen overboard yet.
my oday 20 is set up for halyards to be raised in the cockpit. however, i found i was constantly going forward to untangle something anyway. also, since i don't have roller reefing, i couldn't seem to get the jib wire as tight as i wanted. i ended back to raising them at the mast.
Thanks for the input. Is there a specific auto pilot that you have had good luck with that I should look into??
I have an Autohelm ST 1000+ and I favor this autopilot over other brands. I did the wiring and also constructed a pedestal for it that screws into a fitting on my Starboard fuel compartment cover. I located the outlet on the inside transom where it is out of the way of someone accidentally banging into it and breaking it off. My last Autohelm was the AH 800 and I got a lot of years service out of it. If parts were available for it, I'd still have it to this day, but this model was discontinued. The only reason why I look down my nose at halyards led aft is; when I first bought my boat new, it came with a cheap furler which I soon got rid of and started using the halyard and hanks. My old mast step was a cheap junky cast Aluminum extrusion that came with Z Spar and it had a sheave on the bottom for the Jib halyard. Every time I tried to get my Jib down, the halyard would kink or knot up and get caught on this sheave. What a pain! One day I lost my mast down in Newport but I was able to get all my spars and save my sails. My insurance paid, but I made up my mind that the new Z Spar Mast was going to have a nice Stainless Steel hinge and the Jib halyard was going to exit above the mast winch near the Main halyard exit. No more pulling up on the Jib Halyard from the bottom of the mast. I could pull down now, and get my Gennie up. Now I have a CDI Roller furler, but as much of a pain it was to have to bend down and straighten out the Jib Halyard while standing next to the mast, I can't imagine walking back and forth from the mast to the cockpit to fiddle with a Main Halyard. It's like I mentioned; The reefing, the topping lift control, and the hoisting, are done right at the mast, not to mention the covering of the sail. It doesn't get any easier than that. Some guys worry about falling overboard while doing these things and that's understandable, but at some point in time you'll have to walk to the bow to pick up your mooring pendant line, or drop and raise the hook. You may even have to unhook your sheet that got caught on your open hatch or the mast winch. Wear your PFD or tether yourself to the ship if you must, but do what you have to do safely with confidence and use one hand for the ship and one hand for yourself. I guarantee you that this will become "Ole Hat." No one is more clumsy that I am when I walk down the street. I've tripped and fallen at least four times this year, and as I approach "Geezerdom" it will get worse, but when I'm on my boat I take certain pains that enable me to get around on deck, even when my boat is under autopilot. Sorry if I appear to ramble, but these are my sincere thoughts on this subject.
Joe
Joe
Here's what I did
I ran my mains back and sailed my 1973 Oday-23 dailey and I never had a problem.
I ran my mains back and sailed my 1973 Oday-23 dailey and I never had a problem.
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Re: Here's what I did
Bill,
I think that there are a lot of guys out there who have this type of set-up on their boats who are quite satisfied with it. It probably depends on how well your halyards run through the sheaves and a number of other factors. One of my friends bought an 86 O'Day 272 last year which I agreed to sail up from the Cape with him to the mouth of the "Kicky" where his mooring is, and this boat had everything led back over each side of the cabin to the cockpit. Although it seemed to work pretty well, all those lines looked very confusing and intimidating to me. It's not really my cup of tea. I like the KISS approach to handling my running rigging, but I guess it's all a matter of preference, or what you get used to.
Joe
Bill,
I think that there are a lot of guys out there who have this type of set-up on their boats who are quite satisfied with it. It probably depends on how well your halyards run through the sheaves and a number of other factors. One of my friends bought an 86 O'Day 272 last year which I agreed to sail up from the Cape with him to the mouth of the "Kicky" where his mooring is, and this boat had everything led back over each side of the cabin to the cockpit. Although it seemed to work pretty well, all those lines looked very confusing and intimidating to me. It's not really my cup of tea. I like the KISS approach to handling my running rigging, but I guess it's all a matter of preference, or what you get used to.
Joe
Re: Here's what I did
Bill,
Thanks for posting your photos. With appropriate deference to Joe (who is always ready with good advice and who has consistently made a persuasive argument for installing an autohelm and furler rather than running control lines aft), I have a few questions about your set-up.
First, what kinds of cheek and turning blocks did you use? What considerations influenced your decisions about these?
What kind of rope clutch did you use? Why did you choose a clutch instead of a cam cleat or horn cleat?
It doesn't appear that you added winches to your cabin top. Was that a consideration?
Any advice in general?
Thanks!
Bob
Bill,
Thanks for posting your photos. With appropriate deference to Joe (who is always ready with good advice and who has consistently made a persuasive argument for installing an autohelm and furler rather than running control lines aft), I have a few questions about your set-up.
First, what kinds of cheek and turning blocks did you use? What considerations influenced your decisions about these?
What kind of rope clutch did you use? Why did you choose a clutch instead of a cam cleat or horn cleat?
It doesn't appear that you added winches to your cabin top. Was that a consideration?
Any advice in general?
Thanks!
Bob
Bill thanks for the pictures. My rails are set up very similar. I think your set up may work well. I am curious to know about the hardware that you used and any other advice you may have for me in doing this modification.
Joe thanks for the input. My reason for this modification is not for fear of going overboard but more for being able to keep the boat in the wind while i am on deck raising and lowering the sails. An autohelm may be a little more money than I was originally planning to put into this project. The units that i found were around 700 dollars. Does that sound about right for the type of unit you are using? If the control lines are not able to be lead aft in a good manner i will have to look deeper into this purchase. I have tried a device called a tiller tamer and found it to be pretty much worthless. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all the feedback!
Joe thanks for the input. My reason for this modification is not for fear of going overboard but more for being able to keep the boat in the wind while i am on deck raising and lowering the sails. An autohelm may be a little more money than I was originally planning to put into this project. The units that i found were around 700 dollars. Does that sound about right for the type of unit you are using? If the control lines are not able to be lead aft in a good manner i will have to look deeper into this purchase. I have tried a device called a tiller tamer and found it to be pretty much worthless. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all the feedback!
Bill:
I like your bow hatch cover. Did you construct it over the old hatch or did you remove it? Does it open to the sides? Might be something I would like to do as mine will open on it's own when trailering.
Also, how do you like the jib sail cover? Do you remove it when you sail? I don't have roller reefing and don't know if it's worth installing on a 35 yr old boat.
I like your bow hatch cover. Did you construct it over the old hatch or did you remove it? Does it open to the sides? Might be something I would like to do as mine will open on it's own when trailering.
Also, how do you like the jib sail cover? Do you remove it when you sail? I don't have roller reefing and don't know if it's worth installing on a 35 yr old boat.
Windsome 23,
I just checked out the Worst Marine web site, and they are selling the Autohelm 1000 St+ for about $480. That means that you could probably get it at another boat store for maybe $20 less. When I bought mine, they were selling for around $450 I think, and that was about two or three years ago. Most of the time, I sail off the dock, or off my mooring. Either way, my boat is always headed into the wind which makes it easy to raise the sail. If I'm at anchor, I'll raise the sail first, then pull the anchor up and walk back to the tiller and sail off. Sometimes when the wind is light, and I'm afloat, I'll raise the sail with the wind behind it. I know,-- it's really lazy and unsailorly of me, but occasionally I can do it and get away with it. I don't have anyone standing there saying, "Hey there, you can't do that!" Who cares, right? Anyway, I don't know what your boat does when you try to raise the sail or get it down, but mine will sometimes go in circles. It's a keel centerboard sloop, and I guess that it's just the nature of the beast. Keel boats have more gripe and are prone to point into the wind, but not these boats. So if the wind isn't too strong, let it go around. Hold on to her boom so she doesn't swing around too hard when the wind gets on the other side of the sail. I always raise my centerboard before I try to anchor under sail just in case she tries to go around in a circle. Getting your anchor line caught in your centerboard is no fun experience. You should be able to get an autopilot for way under $500 I think. You can also save a few bucks by building your own mounting pedestal like I did.
I just checked out the Worst Marine web site, and they are selling the Autohelm 1000 St+ for about $480. That means that you could probably get it at another boat store for maybe $20 less. When I bought mine, they were selling for around $450 I think, and that was about two or three years ago. Most of the time, I sail off the dock, or off my mooring. Either way, my boat is always headed into the wind which makes it easy to raise the sail. If I'm at anchor, I'll raise the sail first, then pull the anchor up and walk back to the tiller and sail off. Sometimes when the wind is light, and I'm afloat, I'll raise the sail with the wind behind it. I know,-- it's really lazy and unsailorly of me, but occasionally I can do it and get away with it. I don't have anyone standing there saying, "Hey there, you can't do that!" Who cares, right? Anyway, I don't know what your boat does when you try to raise the sail or get it down, but mine will sometimes go in circles. It's a keel centerboard sloop, and I guess that it's just the nature of the beast. Keel boats have more gripe and are prone to point into the wind, but not these boats. So if the wind isn't too strong, let it go around. Hold on to her boom so she doesn't swing around too hard when the wind gets on the other side of the sail. I always raise my centerboard before I try to anchor under sail just in case she tries to go around in a circle. Getting your anchor line caught in your centerboard is no fun experience. You should be able to get an autopilot for way under $500 I think. You can also save a few bucks by building your own mounting pedestal like I did.
Here is what I did on my 222
I have a Dwyer mast so I was able to order an organizer plate since they are still in business. http://www.dwyermast.com/
To turn the lines aft I used SS lined fairleads attached to the forward ends of the hatch slide bases positioned to the outside of the ends. SS self taping screws worked well there and there is no balsa core to worry about. This made for very strong turning points and there is very little friction since the line is only under real tension for the last couple if inches of travel when the halyard is wynched. I also added a rope clutch for the main halyard and I am very happy with it. It makes hoisting and tensioning the main so easy. Pics hopefully attached.
I have a Dwyer mast so I was able to order an organizer plate since they are still in business. http://www.dwyermast.com/
To turn the lines aft I used SS lined fairleads attached to the forward ends of the hatch slide bases positioned to the outside of the ends. SS self taping screws worked well there and there is no balsa core to worry about. This made for very strong turning points and there is very little friction since the line is only under real tension for the last couple if inches of travel when the halyard is wynched. I also added a rope clutch for the main halyard and I am very happy with it. It makes hoisting and tensioning the main so easy. Pics hopefully attached.
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Completed this the second year and I am very satisfied with the setup. Am able to set both sails from the cockpit. I also installed a lazy jack system (self made) to capture the main when dropped and use a jib downhaul to assist with dropping the jib. Won't claim 100% functionality due to murphy's law but I can solo sail with confidence. Purchased the two blocks and rope clutch online. Don't recall the total cost but was in the neighborhood of $100 for the 3 pieces needed to set it up.
Steve
Steve
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Thanks to you both, Rob and Steve. The photos are very helpful.
Steve, do you recall what kind of cheek block and rope clutch you used? And I don't see a winch in your photo, so I assume you didn't install one. Has that ever been a problem for you?
Also, any advice for installing the blocks and clutch? I assume you thru-bolted them.
Thanks again. I appreciate this help.
Bob
Steve, do you recall what kind of cheek block and rope clutch you used? And I don't see a winch in your photo, so I assume you didn't install one. Has that ever been a problem for you?
Also, any advice for installing the blocks and clutch? I assume you thru-bolted them.
Thanks again. I appreciate this help.
Bob
Bob
I used some Ipe wood scraps for the small riser under the Garhaur organizer and one for the Lewmar double rope clutch. Thru bolted and backing plates for both. Didn't feel the need for a winch. Never a problem hoisting either sail by hand. The organizer, turning block and clutch I purchased through Ebay under sailing hardware. Not sure of the brand of the double stand up block but I mounted this with the mast down. Even though the clearance at the handrail and hatch glide is tight the riser allowed me to route both halyards on the port side. I think cam cleats would work just as well instead of the clutch. The rule of thumb applies, measure twice and three times before drilling for the thru bolts and seal with polysulfide caulk. I also purchased new halyards when I completed the modifications. Hope this helps.
Steve
I used some Ipe wood scraps for the small riser under the Garhaur organizer and one for the Lewmar double rope clutch. Thru bolted and backing plates for both. Didn't feel the need for a winch. Never a problem hoisting either sail by hand. The organizer, turning block and clutch I purchased through Ebay under sailing hardware. Not sure of the brand of the double stand up block but I mounted this with the mast down. Even though the clearance at the handrail and hatch glide is tight the riser allowed me to route both halyards on the port side. I think cam cleats would work just as well instead of the clutch. The rule of thumb applies, measure twice and three times before drilling for the thru bolts and seal with polysulfide caulk. I also purchased new halyards when I completed the modifications. Hope this helps.
Steve
This is extremely helpful. Thanks, Steve. I have been going back and forth about whether to use a rope clutch or a cam cleat. I have even considered using a horn cleat (which is sometimes easier to release under tension). But now that the cold weather has begun to set in here (upstate NY), I'll have to wait until spring to do this work--which gives me more time to deliberate!
Bob
Bob
cockpit control.
I resurected a '75 Oday 22 last year and rigged all the lines back to the cockpit through organisers and clutches.I bought all the gear on ebay for under $500 - including all new lines and downhauls rigged for both jib and main _ and it works great . I used ropes of different style and colour so there's no confusion . Installing sail slides in place of the luff rope made all the difference, and the slides are made of toggle buttons and kevlar line.
Robin.
I resurected a '75 Oday 22 last year and rigged all the lines back to the cockpit through organisers and clutches.I bought all the gear on ebay for under $500 - including all new lines and downhauls rigged for both jib and main _ and it works great . I used ropes of different style and colour so there's no confusion . Installing sail slides in place of the luff rope made all the difference, and the slides are made of toggle buttons and kevlar line.
Robin.
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