Sorry it has taken so long to respond but things have been happining very quickly around here lately. When I constucted my Lazy Jacks I used 5 eye straps, a cheek block, two blocks for 1/4" line, and a cleat to make them. I bought a 50' pack of cheap line at Walmart to figure out the lengths for the lines and then went back and bought braided nylon line. I riveted an eye strap on either side of the mast just below the spreaders and a third of the way back from the forward end of the boom. A third of the way forward from the end of the boom I put a cheek block and a cleat aft of that with an eye strap on the other end of the boom the line on the boom runs from the aft eye strap up to the block hanging from the mast, down through the eye strap on the same side through the one on the other side up to the other block down to the cheek block and to the cleat. Angle the eye straps when you rivet them on so that the line passes straight through them to prevent chaffing. Another thing I did for trailering is to put snap hooks at the end of the lines coming down from the mast snaping onto the blocks on either side. Clear as mud right? I'll try to take some pictures scan, and post them. Others will be able to elaborate on this and probably make it more understandable but this is a start.
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Greg Stebbins
Finally,
Glad to read somthing a little more interseting to us "little Hunter" owners. I was getting disinterested with all the discussion on washer/dryers, hot water heaters, shower leakes in the second head and air conditioners. I look forward to your pictures as I've been working on a lazy jack system myself but not stisfied enough to drill holes yet.
Glad to read somthing a little more interseting to us "little Hunter" owners. I was getting disinterested with all the discussion on washer/dryers, hot water heaters, shower leakes in the second head and air conditioners. I look forward to your pictures as I've been working on a lazy jack system myself but not stisfied enough to drill holes yet.
J
Jay Hill
Another Option: Lazy Jays
I'm sure someone else has done this before, but it was an original in my marina and everybody started calling them Lazy Jays. Similar to Greg's installation but I don't like Lazy Jacks because they are there all the time. I wanted to be able to use them only AFTER the sail was hoisted, you know, for dropping the sail and holding it until I got sail ties on. I also DID NOT want to rebuild a sail cover or have Lazy Jack lines in sight when the boat was secured. So, here's how it works: (Definitely requires two people) 1. Install one eyestrap on BOTTOM of boom in fore and aft manner approximately one foot forward of the sail clew. 2. Install one cheek block on EACH SIDE of the mast roughly two thirds the length of the luff up from the gooseneck. (Sorry Greg, I don't care for hanging blocks on the mast, they tend to bang without pressure on them.) 3. Install one cheek block on EACH SIDE of the mast roughly three inches below the gooseneck. 4. Install one eystrap on the bottom the boom roughly midway between the previous eyestrap installed and the gooseneck. (Probably aft of the boom vang. 5. Take a length of shock cord that is the same length as the following route: Port cheek block at gooseneck through eyestrap just aft of boom vang to cheekblock on starboard side. Run the shock cord through the eyestrap and let it hang for now. 6. Here's where the cheap nylon line from Walmart comes in handy but you will probably need a 100' length. Tie off one end to the boom (anywhere for now). Run the other end up the aft side of the mast to the port cheek block, down the port side of the mast through the goose neck cheek block and tie it off for now. Untie the first end from the boom and place a simple pulley with becket on it. (Packets of five are about $5.) Then run the line through the aft eyestrap on the boom (enter from the port side). Place another simple pulley on the starboard side. Then run the line up the to the starboard mast cheekblock, down the starboard side of the mast through the starboard gooseneck cheekblock. At this point you should have one single line run with an end exiting a cheek block on each side of the mast at the gooseneck. 7. Pull the two sections from the end of the boom to the upper mast down to the sides of the boom and match them to the ends of the shock cord. 8. Take a picture, this is getting wordy. 9. Make sure the two pulleys are on the FORWARD side of the nylon line and attach the shock cord to these same sections. (The pulley should be forward of the nylon line/shock cord connection.This is a temporary connection as you will be replacing the entire line with a nice "pretty" braided line when all the measuring is complete.) 10. While holding the two upper sections in place at the gooseneck, take the line exiting the gooseneck cheek block and tie it with as little slack as possible to the becket on the pulley. Repeat this step for the other side. 11. You're almost done! Pull the two lines running down the front side of the mast down together and your Lazy Jays will rise. (Don't pull too hard at this point as you do not want to pull out the shock cord conection completely.) Make sure the two sides are even when pulling the two lines. When even, mark the lines or temporarily sew them together. 12. If you have a spinnaker pole loop you can place the sewn part of the lines under the loop to hold the pressure on the lines. If you have a track, you can install a track cleat to hold the sewn part. (Most expensive part) You can also install a small horn cleat to hold the sewn part. 13. Admire your work and make any small adjustments you like. 14. Cut away any extra length of line and measure it. 100' minus this length is the amount of line you need. 15. Measure the length of the shock cord. 16. Buy the "nice" line and shock cord color/size of preference. 17. Install the new line by untying/sewing one end from a pulley and sewing the old line to the new. Pull the entire new line through the system and do your fancy work on the shock cord/braided line connection and the points where you tie/sew to the pulley beckets. 18. Even up the lines and permanently sew them together on the front side of the mast at the following point: Pull the lines down to the maximum pressure required to place the Lazy Jays in the position you want for recovering the sail. Sew the lines where you would want to cleat them on the mast. OK, I think it took longer to write than to do it. The beauty of this system is that once installed, it is incredibly easy to operate. Pull down and cleat, Jays go up. Sail is tied, uncleat the line and it comes down and is covered by the sail cover. You can even rig it to operate from the cockpit by tying yet another line to the sewn part of the lines on the front side of the mast and running it to the cockpit; only one Lazy Jay line instead of two Lazy Jack lines. Entire system for 25' boat was less than $100. Pictures are forthcoming
I'm sure someone else has done this before, but it was an original in my marina and everybody started calling them Lazy Jays. Similar to Greg's installation but I don't like Lazy Jacks because they are there all the time. I wanted to be able to use them only AFTER the sail was hoisted, you know, for dropping the sail and holding it until I got sail ties on. I also DID NOT want to rebuild a sail cover or have Lazy Jack lines in sight when the boat was secured. So, here's how it works: (Definitely requires two people) 1. Install one eyestrap on BOTTOM of boom in fore and aft manner approximately one foot forward of the sail clew. 2. Install one cheek block on EACH SIDE of the mast roughly two thirds the length of the luff up from the gooseneck. (Sorry Greg, I don't care for hanging blocks on the mast, they tend to bang without pressure on them.) 3. Install one cheek block on EACH SIDE of the mast roughly three inches below the gooseneck. 4. Install one eystrap on the bottom the boom roughly midway between the previous eyestrap installed and the gooseneck. (Probably aft of the boom vang. 5. Take a length of shock cord that is the same length as the following route: Port cheek block at gooseneck through eyestrap just aft of boom vang to cheekblock on starboard side. Run the shock cord through the eyestrap and let it hang for now. 6. Here's where the cheap nylon line from Walmart comes in handy but you will probably need a 100' length. Tie off one end to the boom (anywhere for now). Run the other end up the aft side of the mast to the port cheek block, down the port side of the mast through the goose neck cheek block and tie it off for now. Untie the first end from the boom and place a simple pulley with becket on it. (Packets of five are about $5.) Then run the line through the aft eyestrap on the boom (enter from the port side). Place another simple pulley on the starboard side. Then run the line up the to the starboard mast cheekblock, down the starboard side of the mast through the starboard gooseneck cheekblock. At this point you should have one single line run with an end exiting a cheek block on each side of the mast at the gooseneck. 7. Pull the two sections from the end of the boom to the upper mast down to the sides of the boom and match them to the ends of the shock cord. 8. Take a picture, this is getting wordy. 9. Make sure the two pulleys are on the FORWARD side of the nylon line and attach the shock cord to these same sections. (The pulley should be forward of the nylon line/shock cord connection.This is a temporary connection as you will be replacing the entire line with a nice "pretty" braided line when all the measuring is complete.) 10. While holding the two upper sections in place at the gooseneck, take the line exiting the gooseneck cheek block and tie it with as little slack as possible to the becket on the pulley. Repeat this step for the other side. 11. You're almost done! Pull the two lines running down the front side of the mast down together and your Lazy Jays will rise. (Don't pull too hard at this point as you do not want to pull out the shock cord conection completely.) Make sure the two sides are even when pulling the two lines. When even, mark the lines or temporarily sew them together. 12. If you have a spinnaker pole loop you can place the sewn part of the lines under the loop to hold the pressure on the lines. If you have a track, you can install a track cleat to hold the sewn part. (Most expensive part) You can also install a small horn cleat to hold the sewn part. 13. Admire your work and make any small adjustments you like. 14. Cut away any extra length of line and measure it. 100' minus this length is the amount of line you need. 15. Measure the length of the shock cord. 16. Buy the "nice" line and shock cord color/size of preference. 17. Install the new line by untying/sewing one end from a pulley and sewing the old line to the new. Pull the entire new line through the system and do your fancy work on the shock cord/braided line connection and the points where you tie/sew to the pulley beckets. 18. Even up the lines and permanently sew them together on the front side of the mast at the following point: Pull the lines down to the maximum pressure required to place the Lazy Jays in the position you want for recovering the sail. Sew the lines where you would want to cleat them on the mast. OK, I think it took longer to write than to do it. The beauty of this system is that once installed, it is incredibly easy to operate. Pull down and cleat, Jays go up. Sail is tied, uncleat the line and it comes down and is covered by the sail cover. You can even rig it to operate from the cockpit by tying yet another line to the sewn part of the lines on the front side of the mast and running it to the cockpit; only one Lazy Jay line instead of two Lazy Jack lines. Entire system for 25' boat was less than $100. Pictures are forthcoming
T
Tom
Vertical Lazy Jacks...
I have been thinking about the following Lazy Jack rig: Envision a typical Lazy Jack setup, but instead of running the lines diagonally to attach up near the spreaders, the lines run straight up and attach to the topping lift. Two (maybe three) sets should work well. If necessary, the lines can be run through an eye strap attached at the bottom edge of the boom to keep them from blowing out of place. When the sail is up, it relieves tension on the topping lift, allowing extra play in the Lazy Jack lines so they don't interfere with sail shape. When the sail is lowered, the topping lift tightens the lazy jack lines to control the sail as it is lowered. A slip knot would allow the tension on the Lazy Jack lines to be adjusted. Advantages I perceive are: 1. the jack lines will move along with the boom, so that they won't tension or slack as the boom swings on the goose neck. 2. The lines run vertical so the battens are not going to hang up on them Any thoughts? Fair winds, Tom
I have been thinking about the following Lazy Jack rig: Envision a typical Lazy Jack setup, but instead of running the lines diagonally to attach up near the spreaders, the lines run straight up and attach to the topping lift. Two (maybe three) sets should work well. If necessary, the lines can be run through an eye strap attached at the bottom edge of the boom to keep them from blowing out of place. When the sail is up, it relieves tension on the topping lift, allowing extra play in the Lazy Jack lines so they don't interfere with sail shape. When the sail is lowered, the topping lift tightens the lazy jack lines to control the sail as it is lowered. A slip knot would allow the tension on the Lazy Jack lines to be adjusted. Advantages I perceive are: 1. the jack lines will move along with the boom, so that they won't tension or slack as the boom swings on the goose neck. 2. The lines run vertical so the battens are not going to hang up on them Any thoughts? Fair winds, Tom
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Jay Hill
Vertical Tom
Sounds like a plan to me. My personal preference is to NOT have anything flying around under sail except the sail. I prefer to not have any Jacks visible, flying, flapping, chaffing, or even touching the sail underway. Were it not for my particular obsession with that, I think yours is the closest thing to the Dutchman without having to modify the sail. Great idea!! In fact, if the topping lift is sheaved at the masthead instead of the boom end (rarely) one could install your idea without any climbing at all. Gotta love that.
Sounds like a plan to me. My personal preference is to NOT have anything flying around under sail except the sail. I prefer to not have any Jacks visible, flying, flapping, chaffing, or even touching the sail underway. Were it not for my particular obsession with that, I think yours is the closest thing to the Dutchman without having to modify the sail. Great idea!! In fact, if the topping lift is sheaved at the masthead instead of the boom end (rarely) one could install your idea without any climbing at all. Gotta love that.
G
Greg Stebbins
Gravy boat full of Spaghetti
With 14 lines and sheets in place already, I’m starting to imagine my little Hunter as a "Gravy boat full of Spaghetti". I've gotten to the point where I think long and hard before adding any permanent fixtures. My current thinking is a removable "lazy jack". I've considered the toping lift even to the point of a small block on the topping lift to work as a car to carry the rig aloft with a tail to retrieve. Too much. My current "not to great" plan would use 4 bronze snap shackles and 4 eye straps and the required line. 2 eye straps would go on the boom approximately 2/3 back from the gooseneck and 1/2 the distance between. The remaining 2 go on each side of the mast app 3 feet up from the gooseneck. The lines would consist of 2 parts: 1. Single length with shackles spliced on each end and in the center. The length would be such that the 2 end shackles attach to the mast eye straps with the center shackle going under the boom to the farthest boom eye strap. The boom being then cradled. 2. The second line ties to the first with each of its ends at points about 2/3 the distance from the middle shackle and the ends with the fourth shackle spiced in it’s center. When the rig is in place, the first line would run from the farthest boom eye strap to the mast eye straps with the mid lines running down from the first line and under the boom to the second boom eye strap. This "thing" should be fairly easy to install and remove. And, when not needed, I could hide it some where.
With 14 lines and sheets in place already, I’m starting to imagine my little Hunter as a "Gravy boat full of Spaghetti". I've gotten to the point where I think long and hard before adding any permanent fixtures. My current thinking is a removable "lazy jack". I've considered the toping lift even to the point of a small block on the topping lift to work as a car to carry the rig aloft with a tail to retrieve. Too much. My current "not to great" plan would use 4 bronze snap shackles and 4 eye straps and the required line. 2 eye straps would go on the boom approximately 2/3 back from the gooseneck and 1/2 the distance between. The remaining 2 go on each side of the mast app 3 feet up from the gooseneck. The lines would consist of 2 parts: 1. Single length with shackles spliced on each end and in the center. The length would be such that the 2 end shackles attach to the mast eye straps with the center shackle going under the boom to the farthest boom eye strap. The boom being then cradled. 2. The second line ties to the first with each of its ends at points about 2/3 the distance from the middle shackle and the ends with the fourth shackle spiced in it’s center. When the rig is in place, the first line would run from the farthest boom eye strap to the mast eye straps with the mid lines running down from the first line and under the boom to the second boom eye strap. This "thing" should be fairly easy to install and remove. And, when not needed, I could hide it some where.
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Rick webb
A Picuture is Worth...
On the system I described the line on the boom starts at the eye strap at the end of the boom goes up to the suspended block down to the eye strap on the same side of the boom UNDER the boom through the forward eye strap on the other side of the boom up to the other suspended block down to the cheek block and to the cleat at the end of the boom (one line all the way through). I apologize for not making that more clear in the beginning. I also neglected to mention two things. First install all of the hardware on the boom as close to the bottom as possible mine are at like four and eight o'clock when looking through the boom, that way they do not interfere with the sail cover. Second if you give yourself enough of a tail at the cleat when you cut your line you can take all that slack an hook them into the rams horn at the forward end of the boom and have them completely out of the way when you are underway The first time you use them they are worth all the work. All the expense takes acouple more times. It was cheap as my prjects on the boat go I told my wife it was about $40 so it may have really been about $50 or $60. Still well worth it. It also can replace th topping lift mine is still on but I never use it.
On the system I described the line on the boom starts at the eye strap at the end of the boom goes up to the suspended block down to the eye strap on the same side of the boom UNDER the boom through the forward eye strap on the other side of the boom up to the other suspended block down to the cheek block and to the cleat at the end of the boom (one line all the way through). I apologize for not making that more clear in the beginning. I also neglected to mention two things. First install all of the hardware on the boom as close to the bottom as possible mine are at like four and eight o'clock when looking through the boom, that way they do not interfere with the sail cover. Second if you give yourself enough of a tail at the cleat when you cut your line you can take all that slack an hook them into the rams horn at the forward end of the boom and have them completely out of the way when you are underway The first time you use them they are worth all the work. All the expense takes acouple more times. It was cheap as my prjects on the boat go I told my wife it was about $40 so it may have really been about $50 or $60. Still well worth it. It also can replace th topping lift mine is still on but I never use it.
R
R. Wheeler
Picture requested
Jay: I sure would like a picture of your system. It sounds like something I have been trying to figure out. Randy
Jay: I sure would like a picture of your system. It sounds like something I have been trying to figure out. Randy
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Jay Hill
Pictures on the way
Randy, I'll get the pictures taken this weekend and should have them available by next week sometime. Jay
Randy, I'll get the pictures taken this weekend and should have them available by next week sometime. Jay
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