Known problem areas for 1st Gen Bristols?

[TomatoDave]

I'm looking for some guidance on older Bristols. I've owned racing sailboats in the past but after a few years without one, am looking for an affordable cruising boat. My first choice (to be honest) would be a Cape Dory 25D, since it possible -- though not easy -- to trailer it yourself, but those are rare and pricey. A 1972 B30 is available near me with a Vetus diesel engine with 300 hours, asking $5000. It's been on the hard as CO is cropduster who travels midwest. He bought it a year or two ago from a couple who had cruised in Carribean on it. I know this could be a money pit but getting a survey is unlikely because there are none within 300 miles. I'm looking for some advice on what, in particular, are problem areas for older Bristols. There is not a lot of specific guidance I have found on Bristols, other than generalized stuff for all older boats that Don Casey advises. I'd appreciate any advice from those who have taken the plunge on an older B.

Because it's on the hard, I can't do a sea (lake?) trial, though I can inspect the hull. Iif I buy, it will be used solely in lakes unless I decide to move to Gulf. Given the displacement, I'm concerned if I can sail it in light air that we often have. Any feedback there appreciated as well.

David

 

[okawbow]

The old bristol had a little better than average construction. All had decks cored with balsa, and unless the owners stayed on top of leaks, the old one have soft spots. Bounce around on the foredeck, side decks, and cabin top to check for soft areas. Check the bulkheads, top, bottom, and where the chainplates attach, for weakness and rot. Look for evidence of leaks around the hull joint on the inside. Check the rudder for play. Especially the pintle bearing at the bottom. Look for delamination on the hull and rudder. Check all the chainplates and rigging for corrosion and wear.

All these things apply to any older boat. A couple small soft spots shouldn't be a killer. but might get the price lowered.

Good luck

 

[Sundude]

On the B24, I'd say the chainplate area (by the bulkhead on the inside - both port & starboard) is a key area to inspect. Make sure there is no deterioration of any major consequence. Next, check the centre of the bulkhead (over the door) to ensure there are no cracks, since this area is critical to mast support. While on the subject of masts, check the exterior cabin top at the tabernacle. Ensure that it too has no cracks of significance.

As has been said in the previous post, check the rudder joint/shaft as it enters the hull below the waterline. It is a common location for leaks, allowing water to enter the bilge. The flange may have to be replaced... a somewhat awkward task in my view... I've done it on my boat.

Any deck & hull deck concerns are as have been stated in the previous post.

Sometimes the portlights leak. Ensure that if they do, no significant damage (delamination or osmosis) has occurred as a result.

That's about it. I think the B24 is a stellar boat. I've sailed it in all kinds of sea conditions... heavy seas, calm seas, heavy air, light air. I think it performs adequately in all. Its 3 ft. draft, full keel affords stability, while not limiting your gunkholing potential.

Trailerable, well I guess so. I know the quoted boat weight on the Net suggests trailering ease. I've used a Land Rover V8 to trailer the boat from the Big Bend area in Florida, to Pensacola near the Alabama border. Doable... but be careful!!! She's heavy... typical woman... lies about her weight.

 

[Ray34]

Vetus

I don't know where you are on the Bristol. I will comment on the Vetus. I have a marinized Mitsubishi S4L by Vetus. The engine has been a complete pita since day one. The underlying Mitsubishi is solid but the Vetus pieces are poorly thought out and near impossible to obtain parts for. For the most part, you can go to an industrial engine house for the Mitsubishi parts. However, if you need a Vetus specific part, forget about it. Nine months, absurd pricing and $75 plus delivery as parts tend to come from Europe at your cost.

The biggest issue is the extensive use of aluminum bolted to dissimilar metals and cooled by salt water. As with the recent issues with Yanmar diesels, this is an electrolytic playground. However, unlike Yanmar, you can't get parts.

My engine, less than 200 hours, has been torn down more times than I care to remember. I would describe the conversion as basically garbage.

 

[Chesapeakegem]

Great old boat!

I currently own and sail a 1967 B27 and can tell you its a very solid great sailing boat. I don't know when if ever they went away from hand laid hull but if she's handlaid (look inside the forepeak line locker) then take some time to check her out. Most everyone in these forums will try and persuade you to get a survey, (you will need one if you want to insure the boat) however getting assistance from some who knows boats would be the next best thing. Do check for soft spots on the deck, especially around the mast and other deck fittings. Inspect the hull thoroughly looking for any indication of any previous damage or repairs. Any evidence of a severe blisterring? Basically your looking for a level of soundness and an overall idea of what her condition is. Do check for evidence of water leaks inside around the railings and definately check for good wood where those chainplates are bolted. If she's sound, has decent sails and the engine runs reliably you can't go very wrong. Bristols are a bit on the heavy side, Mr. Alberg was more about safety and comfort than speed. There are plenty of websites regarding Bristols and Pearsons which were very similar in thier day and the sites are a great help as are most of the folks in these forums. Best to you.