Know When to Hold 'em, Know When to Fold 'em .............

Jan 4, 2006
7,251
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
In a previous post entitled "Runaway Diesel" back in February, the post managed to drift from, well as the title says, runaway diesels all the way to hand starting a diesel engine.

One facet of the hand starting segment which caught my attention was the difficulty if not impossibility of hand starting a Yanmar engine at a time when the electric start had failed. I promised to look into this once the weather here warmed up :

I keep my starting battery electrically "untouchable" when at anchor, but if the engine was intended to be hand cranked as a final backup, I want to make bloody sure it can be hand cranked if ever required.
Last Wednesday we managed to get up to 16° C (61° F) for one day only in the middle of a cold, wet spell here. Shorts and T-shirt weather right on the water. So it's off to the boat to see if we can hand start the Yanmar 2GM20F.

The first problem encountered was (as previously mentioned in "Runaway Diesel") is that a V-belt sits directly over a cover cap for the starting rod connection :

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Here is the cap shown in the Yanmar parts manual :

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After removing the offending V-belt, we have a much better shot at getting to the two retaining screws holding the cap in place :

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With my trusty assistant wrenching on the hex portion of the #4 Philips screwdriver with a box end wrench and your truly heaving into the screw and twisting with both hands, this machine screw didn't stand a chance. Well, not exactly.

As I'm slowly approaching max. force on the screwdriver, I can feel the screw move slightly but it's just not getting any looser. Maybe a shot of WD-40, a couple of taps, a little heat, and let it sit for an hour while I look at other small things on the engine which I need to do. This time I try it by myself and the screw isn't going anywhere short of snapping off the head. About this time I can hear Kenny Rogers way in the background whispering his wise, words of wisdom : "Ya gotta know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em."

At that point I decided if that if I broke the screw thread in the casting, I'm in for a world of hurt. I didn't even want to get in there because the V-belt is most likely going to prevent me from trying to hand start the engine if ever required. The one screw head I worked on was getting a little shop worn around the edges at that point :

1741549186663.png


.................................... in spite of forcing that driver in as hard as we could.

It was "Time to fold 'em" and forget the whole mad adventure. I replaced the belt, tightened it to 50 lbs :

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................................. and that was all she wrote.

I can't help but suspect that Yanmar may have used permanent red Loctite Threadlocker on those small machine screws to signal the end of trying to handstart your Yanmar diesel. And that, I suspect would be why the cylinder unloaders were discontinued on the later YM models of the engine after the GM model was discontinued in 2005. I'm still sitting here wondering if the 2GM20F (including the 1 and 3 cyl. model) was ever intended to be hand started from its inception in 1983.

Any further thoughts out there on hand starting Yanmar GM's and prior models would be welcomed with open arms. What I've seen so far just doesn't quite add up.
 
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,404
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
The earlier YSB model engines were designed to be hand started. Yanmar designed that engine for another industry -I think pipe lines, but I don't remember for sure - where the design requirement was to have a diesel engine capable of being hand crank started within some time frame, like 3 seconds or something like that. Then they marinized that engine and put it in boats.

I don't know the history of the GM series.

dj
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,142
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
Ralph

Those screws are Posidrive - not Phillips. The Posi bit looks like Phillips but the end of a Posi bit is flat - not pointed. The cam end (which the cover hides) needs to have a cross-pin installed. The 2GM20F (which is yours) did not come with a pin. So, you will need to make one for the hand start to engage. You will need a crank too. I have a spare or two. My back up starter is the socket off the hand crank, (handle cut off), weld the socket to a length of rebar, and power the thing with a battery driven drill - Makita, Harbor Freight, Milwaukee. As far as access is concerned just cut of the dome end of the cover. Pics below.

Charles
 

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Jan 4, 2006
7,251
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Those screws are Posidrive - not Phillips. The Posi bit looks like Phillips but the end of a Posi bit is flat - not pointed.
@Charles Erwin

Thanks for putting a name to that unusually shaped #4 screwdriver I used to attempt to remove the two screws. I've had that #4 driver sitting around for years now and thought the flat tip was a much better idea that the regular Philips but did no know it had a different name. In this case, it would have been able to supply enough torque to shear the head off of the screw's shank.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to WOW anyone in the near future by rattling off its name as I don't think anyone else knows or cares what a Posidrive driver or screw is.

As far as access is concerned just cut of the dome end of the cover.
Am I correct in presuming you were unable to remove the starter cap screws as well ?
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,926
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
It is really simple to start a diesel on a low battery. Take off the valve cover(s) and slide something between the rocker arm and push rod on the exhaust side. Generally US dimes work well, but check your piston clearance from the open valves, and find something thinner.
Spin the engine, which should be easy w/o compression, until it is spinning nicely. Then pull out one spacer and the engine should try to run on that cylinder. Take out another, and another, until your diesel is running on all cylinders! Replace the valve cover(s) and clean up any oil mess.
 
Aug 2, 2010
528
J-Boat J/88 Cobourg
@Charles Erwin

Thanks for putting a name to that unusually shaped #4 screwdriver I used to attempt to remove the two screws. I've had that #4 driver sitting around for years now and thought the flat tip was a much better idea that the regular Philips but did no know it had a different name. In this case, it would have been able to supply enough torque to shear the head off of the screw's shank.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to WOW anyone in the near future by rattling off its name as I don't think anyone else knows or cares what a Posidrive driver or screw is.



Am I correct in presuming you were unable to remove the starter cap screws as well ?
These screws are in every concealed hinge from European manufacturers like Blum and Grass. As you did, you can find a phillips driver that fits well enough to adjust the hinge but a Pozi driver works much better.
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,550
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
thought the flat tip was a much better idea that the regular Philips
The Philips screws were designed to slip. This was to keep the head from snaping of when used with a powered driver slotted screws were not suited to this use. If I remember right, it was Ford in the early 1900s who used them in large numbers and made them the common screw they are today. Robertson screws were an option as well it is an interesting story worth some time reading about.