I know there are posts ref this in the archives, but I am having trouble with the search engine. My kick up rudder was banging last season. It appears that the detent rivet is not engaging to keep it in place. I am trying to disassemble the blade from the casting to clean up the area but am having difficulty due to stainless on aluminium corrossion. Does anyone have any ideas for removing the locking discs and bolt with out causing damage. Second, has anyone swithched over to the standard rudder v. the kick up? I don't trailer my boat and she has a wing keel, so I don't intentionally take her into the shallows, so I haven't had a reason to "kick up" the rudder over the past 3 yrs. Thanks, Jeff 14640, "My Kinja 2"
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
T
Ted
Here is what I did . . .
My rudder assembly would not come apart either. So, I got a bigger hammer and pounded it out. I would soak the bolt/nut areas with liquid wrench for a few days, and then try to get the nut(s) off. If you heat the nut with a torch it should expand enough to break the corrosion seal. Then, you have to deal with gettting the bolt through the assembly. This is where the hammer comes into play. If you have to hit it more than a few times it will probably distort the threads. No biggy, just buy a new bolt (SS) down at the marine store. Put the whole thing back together using marine grease to coat the parts, (disks, bolts, etc.). Take it apart every year just to check and re-grease. Things should stay in OK condition from now on. Regards, Ted
My rudder assembly would not come apart either. So, I got a bigger hammer and pounded it out. I would soak the bolt/nut areas with liquid wrench for a few days, and then try to get the nut(s) off. If you heat the nut with a torch it should expand enough to break the corrosion seal. Then, you have to deal with gettting the bolt through the assembly. This is where the hammer comes into play. If you have to hit it more than a few times it will probably distort the threads. No biggy, just buy a new bolt (SS) down at the marine store. Put the whole thing back together using marine grease to coat the parts, (disks, bolts, etc.). Take it apart every year just to check and re-grease. Things should stay in OK condition from now on. Regards, Ted
Rivet detent system is poor design
The rivet detent hold down is a poor design. A better way to go is to remove the rivets from the rudder, add a cheek block, cleat and piece of bungee to the rudder head. Several design gains are achieved. 1. The rudder will automatically reposition following a grounding 2. The rudder will stay fully forward reduceing helm torque 3. The line serves as a pull down line, no more bending or hanging a foot over the transom to push it down
The rivet detent hold down is a poor design. A better way to go is to remove the rivets from the rudder, add a cheek block, cleat and piece of bungee to the rudder head. Several design gains are achieved. 1. The rudder will automatically reposition following a grounding 2. The rudder will stay fully forward reduceing helm torque 3. The line serves as a pull down line, no more bending or hanging a foot over the transom to push it down
D
David Williams
Question
Aryln, What a great ideal. What kind of cleat is this? I cannot make it out from the picture. Do you think a cam cleat would work on the bungee? Thanks, David
Aryln, What a great ideal. What kind of cleat is this? I cannot make it out from the picture. Do you think a cam cleat would work on the bungee? Thanks, David
M
Mike C22
good idea Arlyn
I like your idea better than what I did. I drilled a hole in the front of the rudder about 4" below the aluminum assembly, and epoxy coated the inside diameter to prevent water damage to the rudder. I fabricated two clamps from aluminum flat stock I had. I attached those to the upper end of the rudder assembly by using a screw that was already there on each side. I then ran 3/8" bungee thru the hole and under each clamp. I pulled the bungee tight and tightened the screws, clamping the bungee in place. Your photo looks more professional.
I like your idea better than what I did. I drilled a hole in the front of the rudder about 4" below the aluminum assembly, and epoxy coated the inside diameter to prevent water damage to the rudder. I fabricated two clamps from aluminum flat stock I had. I attached those to the upper end of the rudder assembly by using a screw that was already there on each side. I then ran 3/8" bungee thru the hole and under each clamp. I pulled the bungee tight and tightened the screws, clamping the bungee in place. Your photo looks more professional.
The cleat
The cleat is called a Cal Cleat and was bought in a pair from Harbor Freight and Tool. I think its found often at specialty shops for truck bed accessories. It is well made of stainless and aluminum. It works like a cam cleat but is captive. Sure, a captive cam cleat would work ok, I just didn't want the possibilty of a loose end on the bungee inadvertently pulling the line loose from a cam cleat.
The cleat is called a Cal Cleat and was bought in a pair from Harbor Freight and Tool. I think its found often at specialty shops for truck bed accessories. It is well made of stainless and aluminum. It works like a cam cleat but is captive. Sure, a captive cam cleat would work ok, I just didn't want the possibilty of a loose end on the bungee inadvertently pulling the line loose from a cam cleat.
J
jeff 14640
thanks for the info
I banged the heck out of the bolt after lots of wd40 and was able to free the blade from the casting. I have a considerable groove in the inside of the casting from the detent rivet. I attempted to separate the side panels from the casting so that I could have the groove repaired but to no avail. I am afraid that the screws will break before unscrewing. Since I don't trailer, and have a wing keel, therefore dont beach the boat, I think I will order a new fixed rudder from Cat dir. Has anyone else switched over and what do you think? Thanks, Jeff 14640, My Kinja2
I banged the heck out of the bolt after lots of wd40 and was able to free the blade from the casting. I have a considerable groove in the inside of the casting from the detent rivet. I attempted to separate the side panels from the casting so that I could have the groove repaired but to no avail. I am afraid that the screws will break before unscrewing. Since I don't trailer, and have a wing keel, therefore dont beach the boat, I think I will order a new fixed rudder from Cat dir. Has anyone else switched over and what do you think? Thanks, Jeff 14640, My Kinja2
Reasonable game plan
Going to a fixed blade rudder is probably the reasonable thing to do... The old rudder can be salvaged... I've drilled the stainless screws out of several of them. Its tedious work and requires a drill press and patience. The steps are to carefully get a center punch mark dead center to the screw... then drill a very small pilot hole, enlarge it once, and then drill to finish. Replace with through bolts. The drill bits must be very sharp and cutting speeds on the conservative side to keep from heeting up and losing the edge on the bit. The effort will usually cost a bit or two but if a beaching rudder is important... its worth the effort and can be done.
Going to a fixed blade rudder is probably the reasonable thing to do... The old rudder can be salvaged... I've drilled the stainless screws out of several of them. Its tedious work and requires a drill press and patience. The steps are to carefully get a center punch mark dead center to the screw... then drill a very small pilot hole, enlarge it once, and then drill to finish. Replace with through bolts. The drill bits must be very sharp and cutting speeds on the conservative side to keep from heeting up and losing the edge on the bit. The effort will usually cost a bit or two but if a beaching rudder is important... its worth the effort and can be done.
M
Mike C22
Convert the existing rudder
I almost bought a used C22 that had the rudder thru bolted so it wouldn't swing up. I didn't particularly care for it since I trailer, and my home lake has some shoals. What this guy did was drill a hole completely thru the rudder assembly and put a stainless bolt and nut in to keep the rudder locked in the down position. Sure a lot cheaper than a new rudder!
I almost bought a used C22 that had the rudder thru bolted so it wouldn't swing up. I didn't particularly care for it since I trailer, and my home lake has some shoals. What this guy did was drill a hole completely thru the rudder assembly and put a stainless bolt and nut in to keep the rudder locked in the down position. Sure a lot cheaper than a new rudder!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.