I have started discussion with Garhauer Marine to see what it would cost to make up replacement sheaves for my Kenyon mast and pulpit sheave box at the bottom. (I would need 8 sheaves.) The replacements would machined aluminum with plastic ball bearings. Major dimensions are 3.75 outside diameter, .700 (just under 3/4" thick), 1/2" axle diameter. In addition to the Cherubini range 33's in various configurations, I have seen them on early 34's. I m fairly certain on the 37 C, 31, and who knows where else. If you are considering new sheaves this might be a good time. If we can generate some volume, the price might get into an affordable range. Their stock offerings run about $40.00 per. If you're interested, let me know here. Sam Lust
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Not recommended for a static load.
Sam: I asked one of the mfg about using ball bearing sheaves for the mast and they recommended that I did NOT use ball bearing for this type of an application. They indicated that they tend to flatten because of the static load. I believe that Rig-rite has parts for the Kenyon spars. Considering how long these sheaves last, I wonder if it is really worth the additional cost to have something like this custom made. Some of the mfg. actually have replacment sheaves from alumnium.
Sam: I asked one of the mfg about using ball bearing sheaves for the mast and they recommended that I did NOT use ball bearing for this type of an application. They indicated that they tend to flatten because of the static load. I believe that Rig-rite has parts for the Kenyon spars. Considering how long these sheaves last, I wonder if it is really worth the additional cost to have something like this custom made. Some of the mfg. actually have replacment sheaves from alumnium.
Of course, of course
Point loading on plastic balls be damned. The original sheaves have a phenolic bushing bonded into the center. no lube doesn't work, and no lube I've found works for more than half a season. The worst resistance I can think of would have to be less than what I have been fighting with the originals.
Point loading on plastic balls be damned. The original sheaves have a phenolic bushing bonded into the center. no lube doesn't work, and no lube I've found works for more than half a season. The worst resistance I can think of would have to be less than what I have been fighting with the originals.
Sam, why again?
You are saying that most(all) of your resistance is from the sheaves? My '79 Kenyon mast(H37C) has the originals. I squirted on a little 3-and-1 once in the six years of sailing her. My main goes up and down with no problems. Are you sure it is the bearing surface? Or could it be "snagging" someplace else? Halyards too large for example? Of course I only have them at the masthead.
You are saying that most(all) of your resistance is from the sheaves? My '79 Kenyon mast(H37C) has the originals. I squirted on a little 3-and-1 once in the six years of sailing her. My main goes up and down with no problems. Are you sure it is the bearing surface? Or could it be "snagging" someplace else? Halyards too large for example? Of course I only have them at the masthead.
Resistance
For some reason the phenolic plastic they used for the center bushing seems to swell up and grab the axle. I've tried grease, synthetic and mineral, and an aerosol lube. None has gone a full season. It might even be that my choice of lube has been incompatible with the plastic. My halyards are 7/16" or smaller so that should not be a problem. Replacing these is not a "gots to do", and if the price isn't attractive it won't get done. I spent a couple of days with a fellow who is an expert clock maker. MAKER, (Horologist, I believe) as opposed to fixer. Stuff like the multi faced clock at Colby College in Waterville, Maine, and the clock he built for L. L. Bean in Freeport. He has run tests and insists synthetic motor oil, (Mobil 1) is superior for this sort of application. He says his gears run free and true in the sub, sub zero Maine winters and lasts for years and years. If I stay with the originals I'll probably go with that. Now I have to agonize over what viscosity to use. Think Hunter has a recomendation? Maybe I'll find it in the Owner's Manual!
For some reason the phenolic plastic they used for the center bushing seems to swell up and grab the axle. I've tried grease, synthetic and mineral, and an aerosol lube. None has gone a full season. It might even be that my choice of lube has been incompatible with the plastic. My halyards are 7/16" or smaller so that should not be a problem. Replacing these is not a "gots to do", and if the price isn't attractive it won't get done. I spent a couple of days with a fellow who is an expert clock maker. MAKER, (Horologist, I believe) as opposed to fixer. Stuff like the multi faced clock at Colby College in Waterville, Maine, and the clock he built for L. L. Bean in Freeport. He has run tests and insists synthetic motor oil, (Mobil 1) is superior for this sort of application. He says his gears run free and true in the sub, sub zero Maine winters and lasts for years and years. If I stay with the originals I'll probably go with that. Now I have to agonize over what viscosity to use. Think Hunter has a recomendation? Maybe I'll find it in the Owner's Manual!
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