Heat transfer
One common misperception is what temperature the ice is to start with. Ice freezes (fresh water) at 32 degrees but that doesn't mean it can't be colder. Ice will be as cold as you want it, and the colder it is the better to start with. The ice you buy in stores is too warm and will melt too fast. Make your own ice as others suggest and make big blocks of it. Your freezer should be around zero degrees F, but as cold as your freezer will go will help. Do what others already suggested, freeze your foods where appropriate, cook them as they defrost. Precool the cooler you use. Never use your food cooler for drinks. Keep drinks in a separate cooler because it will be opened frequently. Next comes the "R" factor on your cooler. The more insulation the better. Remember, you are not trying to keep cold in, you are trying to keep heat out. Heat transfers from high potential energy (hot) in the direction of low potential (cold). so even if you are using a portable cooler, adding insulation to the outside will further help. We have been talking about this on the O'day forum and bubble wrap is a great way to add dead air space insulation to the outside of a cooler, a little duct tape and you're in business. If you buy ice cubes, buy them in advance and put them in your freezer, this will get them a lot colder than they are when you buy them. Make sure they have a few days to reach equilibrium. But large blocks that are very cold are way better. Dry ice is minus 105 degrees F (I think) very dangerous to handle as your cells in contact will freeze instantly. If your blocks are in containers you can use the melted ice for fresh cold water to drink as it melts. Using blocks I've been able to go up to 7 days on original ice.