Keep the window cracked open?

Steve Dion · Jan 12, 2015

Have you considered a dehumidifier? We leave ours on the galley counter with with a continous flow hose in the galley sink.

Eddie7045 · Jan 12, 2015

If you have access to electricity, HEAT. It's the

same as houses in the PNW. You need to keep the temperature above 50 degrees. Use a gentle heat source such as a small oil filled heater or dehumidifier.

kito · Jan 12, 2015

How about solar vents? I have 2 and seem to work well. You can't cover them up though

Eddie7045 · Jan 12, 2015

You'd be probably be slightly better off keeping

them shut. Again it's the temperature. If you are in the area you could open it up on warmer mid days to air out and let in warmer air and then shut it up before evening. Anyway the answer to your original question is, "No".

Chris Patterson · Jan 12, 2015

It's funny I was thinking these same questions this morning. It seems it rains here 300 days a year lately, and when I tried to ventilate my boat it was a swamp. I mean, if the humidity is 90 percent or even higher, this makes no sense to draw in moist air. With me, those dry desiccant bags, DryDeck or something like that, they were just fighting a loosing battle.

I have a tendency to overbuild everything, so a small plate dehumidifier wasn't going to cut it either. So I got one of the compressor models, a Soleus I think, and now when I get to the boat it's so dry in there your eyes won't blink. I have no idea if there is any such thing as TOO dry, but for my taste, it works for me. A dry boat, is a happy boat.

Rick · Jan 12, 2015

I like this stuff. I buy the three pack bags. Read the reviews. I think it makes a huge difference. Coupled with a fan... nice.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-...oisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308?N=5yc1vZc5bq

Skipper · Jan 12, 2015

Rick said:
I like this stuff. I buy the three pack bags. Read the reviews. I think it makes a huge difference. Coupled with a fan... nice. http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-High-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308?N=5yc1vZc5bq

I use those too. 3 tubs spaced in the cabin. I also use a common wm warmer. It's a low wattage unit designed for unattended use as specified by wm. It's not a dehumidifier, but more of a condensation inhibitor. The combo with the tubs, warmer, and the cabin sealed works fabulous, and the tubs last a month or so even during the wet season if the cabin is closed up.

I'm not an expert on the subject and will accept snickers from one who is, but from experience I think that if you cannot control the moisture level and condensation inside then ventilation is the next best. However if you CAN control them IE the absorbent tubs and the warmer, then ventilation is NOT good, as it allows additional moisture intrusion.

Skipper · Jan 12, 2015

By the way the tubs are $8 at WM and $3 at HD

Hello Below · Jan 12, 2015

jamarohn said:
Hi folks ~ Maaaaaany years ago, when we started sailing the Salish Seas here in the Pacific Northwest, we got advice on how to winterize our boat. One of which was to keep a window or two cracked open for ventilation, to "keep the air moving through the cabin." Here in the PNW, the temps rarely stay below freezing, and there's a lot of moisture in the air. I get the "keep the air circulating" bit, but am wondering if leaving the windows open is drawing in excess moisture into our cabin. Do folks keep the windows cracked, or do you close it up?

We are North of you, but experience similar cool/cold wet weather. We do not leave any openings to the outside open. A Caframo marine heater set at setting 1 (600W) and temp 3 is in the salon and one WM pan air dryer (100W) in each cabin. We are also using an Eva Dry dehumidifier plumbed into the galley sink this year for the 1st time. The temp inside so far this winter has not dropped below 45 and is normally around 60 whenever I stop by in the early afternoon. Humidity has never topped 60%.

mitiempo · Jan 13, 2015

Dehumidifiers and heaters help but should be combined with ventilation. Of the 3 ventilation is the most important. With good ventilation the heat and dehumidifier are not really necessary.

Living aboard in Victoria for 17 years.

Anonymous 121765 · Jan 13, 2015

Jam,

The dehumidifiers are very low draw. I like most boaters, have shorepower hookups running 24/7. I also use a dehumidifier for those fall & early spring times that are full of moisture, temp fluctuations & fog.

To make you feel better about using a dehumidifier, you can use a house timer & set the "on" times from say 3:00 AM till 9:00 AM. It will circulate warm air for drying moisture but not run constantly.

I assume you have vent openings in your companionway slats or deck venting. If not having some venting, air will not move making it very hard to vent & lessen moisture buildup. This is why some boats with A/C systems, run in the dehumidifier mode.

CR

wamwam1 · Jan 13, 2015

Keep ventilation going. Keep the windows open if you can avoid rain coming in. Moisture in the air in the boat will condense on any cold enough spot in the hull or deck. Heating in the boat will increase the moisture carrying capability of the heated air and this moisture will condense in the afore mentioned cold spot. Unless the heating effect is large enough and the hot moist air is removed. Ventilation brings in ambient air and because the boat is generally at ambient temperature no condensation will occur. Keeping the windows open and forced ventilation tends to keep the boat full of fresh ambient air so that condensation will not occur as ambient conditions change. Dessicant will work if its effect is large enough that no moist air reaches cold spots.

Hello Below · Jan 13, 2015

jamarohn said:
As for trapping moisture and dispensing it, I'm kinda done with those crystals... I just ordered the evadry dehumidifier. I'll need to figure out how to modify it a bit so that it drains into the galley sink.

That's my plan! Thanks everyone!!

I find that I use to get about a cup of sticky water in a month of using the desiccant crystals. With the Eva Dry 1100, I get about 4 - 6 oz/day of clean water. I modified my Eva Dry by drilling a small hole dead centre in the front of the tank at the very bottom. I then used a bit of sealant to secure a 1/4" barbed fitting Rainbird XBF1CONN (or similar) into the hole. I then ran a 1/4" clear hose (aquarium) to the sink Total cost for the mod: $1.50

finding41 · Jan 13, 2015

It's -16C here in London Ont. I have the car windows cracked open so ice doesn't form on the inside of them. It works when it's really cold. Not when it's -2C.
In my boat (The one I happen to be using.) I leave a small muffin fan running in the bilge 24-7. The draw is tiny. .02ah. It make a huge difference!
My solar charger keeps the battery topped up to the point that the fan will be running and the charger says the battery is full. It's a cheap charge controller that just has lights for charging and charged so it's not the most accurate or efficient.

DougM · Jan 14, 2015

With all the boats I have owned, I have never worried about condensation. They have either been winter stored inside a barn, or outside under a fitted cover. As far as air circulation, since there is no power available, I rely on the vent holes in the hatch boards and leave a forward hatch slightly cracked open, which theoretically will create a small amount of convection. I would imagine that if a boat sits in the water all the time, its a different story.

mitiempo · Jan 14, 2015

Temperature difference is the issue. As long as the interior boat temp is the same as the outside temp there is no condensation. When the interior temp increases due to either a heater or a solar hit there is a problem when the temp drops as the cooler air will not hold as much moisture. It has to go somewhere and condenses on cooler surfaces.

Keep the window cracked open?

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