Keel
- Thread starter Rodsails
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I would look here: Index of /wp-content/export/Miscellaneous
And you will find an excel spreadsheet with bolt size and torque. Keel_bolt_specs.xls
I am not an expert, but this is the best info I have found.
Paste of what is in the sheet.
And you will find an excel spreadsheet with bolt size and torque. Keel_bolt_specs.xls
I am not an expert, but this is the best info I have found.
Paste of what is in the sheet.
| Keel bolt sizes | Socket size | Torque |
| 3/8" | 9/16" | 21 foot pounds |
| 1/2" | 3/4" | 45 foot pounds |
| 3/4" | 1-1/8" | 132 foot pounds |
| 1" | 1-1/2" | 325 foot pounds |
| 1-1/4" | 1-7/8" | 546 foot pounds |
| Models | Number of studs & size | |
| H336 | 5 x 3/4", 1 x 1/2" and 1 x 3/8" | |
| H340 | 2 x 1" and 3 x 1-1/4" | |
| H356 | 2 x 1/2" and 6 x 1" | |
| H37.5 | 7 x 1" and 1 x 3/8" | |
| H37.6 | 7 x 1" | |
| H40.5 | 3 x 1" | |
| H410 | 7 x 1" and 1 x 1/2" | |
| P42 & H43 | 7 x 1" and 1 x 1/2" | |
| P450,P456 & H460,466 and 46 | 7 x 1" | |
| H49 | 9 X 1" (some keels have 9 x 1" plus 1 x 3/4" aft) | |
If you are paying the yard to do the work, I'd love to know what they estimate the cost to be?
I am buying a '89 Legend 37 and the aft end of the keel is 'smiling'. Eventually I might have to drop the keel too.
For now, I'm going to torque the bolts, pull off the old fairing compound, grind out the smile and do the usual 5200 sealing and re-fair it. My yard is estimating 4 hours. I upped that to probably 8. We will see.
I am buying a '89 Legend 37 and the aft end of the keel is 'smiling'. Eventually I might have to drop the keel too.
For now, I'm going to torque the bolts, pull off the old fairing compound, grind out the smile and do the usual 5200 sealing and re-fair it. My yard is estimating 4 hours. I upped that to probably 8. We will see.
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There are several important issues with keel bolt torque. The tensions in the chart are for the bolts, they do not account for the material between the bolt head and the nut and they do not specify whether the torque is recommendation is for a dry bolt or a lubricated bolt.
Lead and fiberglass is much softer than steel excessive tension on the keel bolts can cause distortions in the lead and can crush the fiberglass in the keel sump. The torque values in the chart may be fine for the bolts, but excessive for the lead in the middle.
In contrast to the numbers above, Sabre recommends 90 ft/lbs of torque on the 1 ⅛" keelboats on my boat. It is the same torque they recommended on my prior boat with ⅞" bolts. Both boats have lead keels. Both keels have remained securely attached. I believe the lower values are due to the compression of the lead at higher torque values which may weaken the keel and to avoid galling of the SS bolt and nut.
The yard here estimated $7500.00 put the boat on the hard, pull the mast, pull the keel & reassemble. I set the cradle up when we stored last fall to be able to drop the keel . I plan to just drop the keel 4" clean up the bedding, still out to court if I use 5200 or Sikaflex
My bolts are 1-1/4" x 1-7/8" Just can't imagine crushing lead & fiberglass that tight to that spec. But when I started this project last year I had a 6' breaker bar and it took everything I had to even break one of the bolts loose for inspection. I'm currently waiting to also hear back from Hunter
Anecdotal information, with no guarantees....
when we had our keel dropped and re-bedded, I asked the yard GM how they arrived at the correct torque. Based on years of experience with reading the specs......... they would check it, but the basics were to have a strong young(ish) guy wielding a 4' handle on the 'breaker bar'. Of course this guy is working in the confines of a typical sailboat interior where it can be challenging to get a full shoulder into the strain.
After having all the bolts torqued up over 20 years ago, never a leak since. Of course this involved all new sealant on a joint fully cleaned off and de-greased.
Like other facets of the ship-wright trade, there is a combination of experience, knowledge, and common sense involved.
i.e. it all sounds casual and easy, but there is quite a bit more to it than is apparent at first glance.
when we had our keel dropped and re-bedded, I asked the yard GM how they arrived at the correct torque. Based on years of experience with reading the specs......... they would check it, but the basics were to have a strong young(ish) guy wielding a 4' handle on the 'breaker bar'. Of course this guy is working in the confines of a typical sailboat interior where it can be challenging to get a full shoulder into the strain.
After having all the bolts torqued up over 20 years ago, never a leak since. Of course this involved all new sealant on a joint fully cleaned off and de-greased.
Like other facets of the ship-wright trade, there is a combination of experience, knowledge, and common sense involved.
i.e. it all sounds casual and easy, but there is quite a bit more to it than is apparent at first glance.
Well , I'm still out to court on which bedding compound to use lots of opinions out there, 5200, 4200, Sika 291i, Hard compound and etc.
I like the idea of Sika 291i. seems to have the most elastic stays flexible and their web site gives full details of how to do it. I put some in my smile about 5 years ago and it's still there. I'm still listening if anyone has additional input
I like the idea of Sika 291i. seems to have the most elastic stays flexible and their web site gives full details of how to do it. I put some in my smile about 5 years ago and it's still there. I'm still listening if anyone has additional input
Our yard did the keel repair without dropping the mast. Maybe a couple of hours to lift and hang the boat, clean up the stub joint and re-bed with 3M-5200. No idea on torque settings.
I had ours done right. So I know all the info you need.
Dropping the keel is not advisable, but you can just drop it a few inches to do all the work needed.
Jim...
PS: I can describe what is needed, since in refused to drop my keel.