Is there an acceptable range of slop in the keel pivot bolt? When raised, my keel will slop back and forth in the housing. Does anyone have any pictures of the keel bolt assembly so I can better understand it's design? Thanks
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slop
hello benjamin contact CATALINA DIRECT 1-800-959-7245 buy an "OWNERS HANDBOOK" about $11.00 drawings and slop kits in it. john
hello benjamin contact CATALINA DIRECT 1-800-959-7245 buy an "OWNERS HANDBOOK" about $11.00 drawings and slop kits in it. john
Rework Hanger Brackets
Benjamin: If I remember correctly, I think that there was a rework hanger bracket kit that was made that had hangar brackets that were a little wider than the original ones. I did install these on my keel about 20 years ago. I think that I purchased the kit directly from Catalina. The idea was to custom machine the width of these to eliminate most of the side to side slop of the keel. I think that the hanger brackets are bronze or brass, and it was recommended that they be sanded to the right width. I had them milled instead. Sanding them would have taken forever. There was also a kit that had little fiberglass pads that were suppose to go somewhere in the slot. I installed these too, but ended up removing them because they didn't fit properly. If my keel is up, and a boat makes a wake that makes my boat rock side to side, the keel will still clunk a little within the slot. It's not a problem, but it is a little annoying. I guess it's just the price for all of the benefits of the swing keel. So you may do a lot of work like I did, and not be too much better off anyway. Aldo
Benjamin: If I remember correctly, I think that there was a rework hanger bracket kit that was made that had hangar brackets that were a little wider than the original ones. I did install these on my keel about 20 years ago. I think that I purchased the kit directly from Catalina. The idea was to custom machine the width of these to eliminate most of the side to side slop of the keel. I think that the hanger brackets are bronze or brass, and it was recommended that they be sanded to the right width. I had them milled instead. Sanding them would have taken forever. There was also a kit that had little fiberglass pads that were suppose to go somewhere in the slot. I installed these too, but ended up removing them because they didn't fit properly. If my keel is up, and a boat makes a wake that makes my boat rock side to side, the keel will still clunk a little within the slot. It's not a problem, but it is a little annoying. I guess it's just the price for all of the benefits of the swing keel. So you may do a lot of work like I did, and not be too much better off anyway. Aldo
Just don't want it to fall off!
Read too many horror stories. I'll probably install the kit from CD next year. Thanks
Read too many horror stories. I'll probably install the kit from CD next year. Thanks
Pics
Benjamin, I have some pics from when I worked on my keel. I'd be happy to send them along if you like. Email me at dave_hoppe@hotmail.com
Benjamin, I have some pics from when I worked on my keel. I'd be happy to send them along if you like. Email me at dave_hoppe@hotmail.com
Dave: Did you coat your keel?
Dave: When you worked on your keel, did you coat it with anything? I can keep bottom paint on my hull for several years, but I have to get some kind of coating on my keel before I can get it to hold paint year-to-year. Aldo
Dave: When you worked on your keel, did you coat it with anything? I can keep bottom paint on my hull for several years, but I have to get some kind of coating on my keel before I can get it to hold paint year-to-year. Aldo
Not an inexpensive fix
I have a 76 C22. Last time I hauled her to have the bottom redone I had the keel dropped. I had been having a "clunk" anytime I got on the boat. Not only was the keel pin worn and bent, the hole in the keel was darn near worn through to the top of the keel. Had to call in a mobile welding company to refrabicate and insert a sleeve to reduce wear.
I have a 76 C22. Last time I hauled her to have the bottom redone I had the keel dropped. I had been having a "clunk" anytime I got on the boat. Not only was the keel pin worn and bent, the hole in the keel was darn near worn through to the top of the keel. Had to call in a mobile welding company to refrabicate and insert a sleeve to reduce wear.
Keel Work Pics
Dave - read your response -re: Keel Pivot Slop. I would like to see the pics, as I am concerned also. If possible, email to tehorton@hotmail.com Thanks- Ramsey Horton
Dave - read your response -re: Keel Pivot Slop. I would like to see the pics, as I am concerned also. If possible, email to tehorton@hotmail.com Thanks- Ramsey Horton
You'll never know until you check
Benjamin: You won't really know what the condition of the pin is, and what the hole through the keel looks like, until you drop the keel from the boat. My pin looked like new, and the hole in my keel had very little clearance around the pin. My keel will clunk a little if a wake hits the boat from the side, and the keel is up. My boat has been in brackish water probably for 20 of the last 23 summers. I must tell you that I am very serious about the zincs. I have 2 sets of zincs near (and to the rear of) the pin. I actually think that the problem of the keel pin and hole is one of galvanic corrosion, and not wear. I think that the keel and pin are eaten away, but that's my opinion. I replace one of the two sets of zincs each year. I use the dome shapped zincs that are about 2 1/2 inches in diameter, and have threaded stainless steel rods that run through the keel with nuts on each end to fasten them. I can't advise you on how to check this on the trailer. I had my boat on slings when I did this and lowered the keel onto a car floor jack to inspect the pins and the hole in the keel. You should inspect yours next spring. It's better to know the condition of it rather than worry about it. Aldo
Benjamin: You won't really know what the condition of the pin is, and what the hole through the keel looks like, until you drop the keel from the boat. My pin looked like new, and the hole in my keel had very little clearance around the pin. My keel will clunk a little if a wake hits the boat from the side, and the keel is up. My boat has been in brackish water probably for 20 of the last 23 summers. I must tell you that I am very serious about the zincs. I have 2 sets of zincs near (and to the rear of) the pin. I actually think that the problem of the keel pin and hole is one of galvanic corrosion, and not wear. I think that the keel and pin are eaten away, but that's my opinion. I replace one of the two sets of zincs each year. I use the dome shapped zincs that are about 2 1/2 inches in diameter, and have threaded stainless steel rods that run through the keel with nuts on each end to fasten them. I can't advise you on how to check this on the trailer. I had my boat on slings when I did this and lowered the keel onto a car floor jack to inspect the pins and the hole in the keel. You should inspect yours next spring. It's better to know the condition of it rather than worry about it. Aldo
Coating the keel
While I am sure there are other methods, I think a good proceedure for coating the keel after bringing it down to bare metal, is to first coat it with Petit's 6980 which is a very good rust prevention coating able to stand up underwarter. Following this, I think faring with a good two part material, such as that 3M product whose name escapes me, is appropriate. Finally, coat the whole thing with a gel coat barrier, like Interlux 2000. At least two coats. This gel coat barrier, which is the same thing you use on fiberglass, is an excellent water barrier to keep water from rusting out the keel and it is an excellent barrier preventing the copper in antifouling paint from corroding the iron keel. However, depending on the particular gel coat barrier used, you will need to apply anti-fouling to the gel coat barrier within a certain time period. Outside of these limits, you will have to sand the barrier coat before applying anti-fouling paint otherwise the anti-fouling may come off too easily. Further, on the C-22, when the keel is lifted, the aft part may press too hard against the keel trunk which will crack the barrier coat and the 6980 causing rust to form. So, if possible without ruining a smooth suface, it may be good to apply more barrier coats to this part of the keel.
While I am sure there are other methods, I think a good proceedure for coating the keel after bringing it down to bare metal, is to first coat it with Petit's 6980 which is a very good rust prevention coating able to stand up underwarter. Following this, I think faring with a good two part material, such as that 3M product whose name escapes me, is appropriate. Finally, coat the whole thing with a gel coat barrier, like Interlux 2000. At least two coats. This gel coat barrier, which is the same thing you use on fiberglass, is an excellent water barrier to keep water from rusting out the keel and it is an excellent barrier preventing the copper in antifouling paint from corroding the iron keel. However, depending on the particular gel coat barrier used, you will need to apply anti-fouling to the gel coat barrier within a certain time period. Outside of these limits, you will have to sand the barrier coat before applying anti-fouling paint otherwise the anti-fouling may come off too easily. Further, on the C-22, when the keel is lifted, the aft part may press too hard against the keel trunk which will crack the barrier coat and the 6980 causing rust to form. So, if possible without ruining a smooth suface, it may be good to apply more barrier coats to this part of the keel.
Aldo Re
id you coat your keel?
No, I didn't do anything to the keel. It was in reasonable shape, paint-wise. I plan on doing the entire bottom this winter-spring, so I'll drop it again and sand-blast it for coating and painting. Don't know what I'll use yet for coating and painting. Dave, 14447
id you coat your keel?No, I didn't do anything to the keel. It was in reasonable shape, paint-wise. I plan on doing the entire bottom this winter-spring, so I'll drop it again and sand-blast it for coating and painting. Don't know what I'll use yet for coating and painting. Dave, 14447
Attachments
POR-15 coating
Late winter of 2001 I dropped the keel on my '86 when I was re-doing the bottom. I used the POR-15 system on the keel which entailed grinding all the paint off, using "Metal-Ready" prep, POR-15, primer and then ablative bottom paint. POR-15 is popular in the auto restoration field for use on metal to stop rust. It also has applications in the commercial marine field. I had never talked to anyone who had used it on a sailboat's cast iron keel but decided I would give it a try anyway. I haven't pulled the boat out of the water (salt) since I put it in spring of 2001. I'm real curious to see what it looks like when I do get a look at it. Has anyone else had experience with POR-15?
Late winter of 2001 I dropped the keel on my '86 when I was re-doing the bottom. I used the POR-15 system on the keel which entailed grinding all the paint off, using "Metal-Ready" prep, POR-15, primer and then ablative bottom paint. POR-15 is popular in the auto restoration field for use on metal to stop rust. It also has applications in the commercial marine field. I had never talked to anyone who had used it on a sailboat's cast iron keel but decided I would give it a try anyway. I haven't pulled the boat out of the water (salt) since I put it in spring of 2001. I'm real curious to see what it looks like when I do get a look at it. Has anyone else had experience with POR-15?
Re: POR-15 coating
Terry, Let us know how the POR-15 held up when you pull your boat. When do you plan on inspecting it? Dave, 14447
Terry, Let us know how the POR-15 held up when you pull your boat. When do you plan on inspecting it? Dave, 14447
POR-15 coating
Probably won't pull it out of the water before late winter. I'm kind of surprised someone else hasn't tried this coating on a cast iron keel before. If it works anywhere near as advertised, and I've been told, the expense and effort should be well worth it.
Probably won't pull it out of the water before late winter. I'm kind of surprised someone else hasn't tried this coating on a cast iron keel before. If it works anywhere near as advertised, and I've been told, the expense and effort should be well worth it.
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