I have an O'day 34 with a very noticeable crack in my keel joint. I'm trying to determine the best method for repair. Do I just clean it out,fill with some 5200 and re-tighten the bolts, and repaint or do I need to do something more? The port side joint is very clean and could be filled with very little work, however the starboard side joint is not even in that the lead has a decent size bulge at the seam. This worries me a little, what do you think?
Keel Joint Repair
- Thread starter No More Ice
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No More Ice,
I would study the archives in detail.
I doubt that just 5200 is best approach. There may be water inside the keel so I would drill a coupe of holes in bottom to drain any water inside laminate and next to ballast.
Get an opinion from "Main Sail', one of the moderators on this forum.
Again, what ever approach you decide on, I think several holes to drain any fluids are in order.
Ed K
26
I would study the archives in detail.
I doubt that just 5200 is best approach. There may be water inside the keel so I would drill a coupe of holes in bottom to drain any water inside laminate and next to ballast.
Get an opinion from "Main Sail', one of the moderators on this forum.
Again, what ever approach you decide on, I think several holes to drain any fluids are in order.
Ed K
26
No More Ice
About 3 years ago I dropped the keel on our O'Day 35 lead keel because it continued to weep from the joint after the rest of the bottom had dried out. When we dropped the keel it gave me chance to inspect all the threaded stainless rods that go down in the keel. Glad I did as I found only one bolt with only a single partial thread loss from corrosion. Now I know the state of the threads. The joint was sealed with 5200 with a complete coating over the entire mating surface. As it came from the factory it only had a zig-zag pattern of sealant down the keel. Second thing I found was the keel bolts were not torqued to 160 ft-lbs (spec from Rudy at D&R Marine). Third it gave me chance to replace all the square washers and nuts in the bilge as some were showing corrosion even thought stainless. I was having as much problem from bilge water corrosion as anything. Starting then I also make sure the bilge is dry and encapsulate the bolts and washers with epoxy as Don Casey has described in other places. When I pull now I inspect the joint for weepage, groove and recoat the joint if any cracks in the bottom paint with 5200, knock of the encapsulate and insect the bolts and washers for corrosion, retorque the bolts and given all is well re-encapsulate and go sailing.
Good Winds
DaveM
About 3 years ago I dropped the keel on our O'Day 35 lead keel because it continued to weep from the joint after the rest of the bottom had dried out. When we dropped the keel it gave me chance to inspect all the threaded stainless rods that go down in the keel. Glad I did as I found only one bolt with only a single partial thread loss from corrosion. Now I know the state of the threads. The joint was sealed with 5200 with a complete coating over the entire mating surface. As it came from the factory it only had a zig-zag pattern of sealant down the keel. Second thing I found was the keel bolts were not torqued to 160 ft-lbs (spec from Rudy at D&R Marine). Third it gave me chance to replace all the square washers and nuts in the bilge as some were showing corrosion even thought stainless. I was having as much problem from bilge water corrosion as anything. Starting then I also make sure the bilge is dry and encapsulate the bolts and washers with epoxy as Don Casey has described in other places. When I pull now I inspect the joint for weepage, groove and recoat the joint if any cracks in the bottom paint with 5200, knock of the encapsulate and insect the bolts and washers for corrosion, retorque the bolts and given all is well re-encapsulate and go sailing.
Good Winds
DaveM
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