just a thought, for those of you who have replaced the keel pin, just how much vertical play is there in the keel when the new pin is in place and there is no wear in the system. in looking at older 22s it seems that a quick easy method for possibly determining problems before purchase and without the expense of a lift would be to simply slowly jack the keel up a bit to determine how much play is in there. i presume that an elongated keel hole or worn pin would show up with excessive play. does this sound ok and if so how much play would be ok and when would you think there was a problem? (numbers would be good. 1/16th" 1/4".....)basicly i accept the replacement of the pin but i would like to avoid a boat with the keel hole elongated. thanks in advance
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J
jacob samuelsson
checking the pin
Matt Checking the pin for elongation by jacking it up while the keel is in the retracted position would give you an idea of how wide the hole may have become widthwise but would not tell you how worn it is on a vertical plane.(as when the keel is in it's down working position)I think critical wear would occur in this vertical position.My advice ....Drop the keel and inspect .Just my opinion!!!
Matt Checking the pin for elongation by jacking it up while the keel is in the retracted position would give you an idea of how wide the hole may have become widthwise but would not tell you how worn it is on a vertical plane.(as when the keel is in it's down working position)I think critical wear would occur in this vertical position.My advice ....Drop the keel and inspect .Just my opinion!!!
C
Charlie on
pivot pin hole
MAtt, When I bought my '86 c22 it was in really good shape except for what I thought was "wobble" in the keel, left to right. When I removed the hangers and lowered the keel I found the 1 inch diameter pivot pin (replaced by PO) was in a hole in the keel that measured 1 3/4 x 1 1/4. I wound up at a local machine shop (extensive work to the keel) bored out and a new S.S. bushing pressed in slip fit to the pin. It was a lot of work removing the keel while the boat was on the trailer transporting and refinishing the keel. It was worth it. Continuously maintaining the keel is a hedache. Good Luck
MAtt, When I bought my '86 c22 it was in really good shape except for what I thought was "wobble" in the keel, left to right. When I removed the hangers and lowered the keel I found the 1 inch diameter pivot pin (replaced by PO) was in a hole in the keel that measured 1 3/4 x 1 1/4. I wound up at a local machine shop (extensive work to the keel) bored out and a new S.S. bushing pressed in slip fit to the pin. It was a lot of work removing the keel while the boat was on the trailer transporting and refinishing the keel. It was worth it. Continuously maintaining the keel is a hedache. Good Luck
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mike
Depends upon how worn is the keel hole
I replaced my keel pin this past summer in my '75. There was a lot of slop and clunking. The old pin had been worn down almost 1/4" on the topside. I inspected the keel hole, but didn't measure it with a ruler. The keel hole appeared in good condition, not elongated. I placed the new pin inside of the hole and checked the clearance, which seemed to be 1/4" when the pin was pulled tight to one side. When I replaced the keel pin, I added extra nylon spacers on each side of the pin to eliminate the side to side play. It works fine. Also, replace your keel cable while you're doing the job. Make sure you place the cable aft of the turning ball. All of this can be purchased at Catilina Direct. There is a good diagram on page 4.13.2 of their C22 handbook.
I replaced my keel pin this past summer in my '75. There was a lot of slop and clunking. The old pin had been worn down almost 1/4" on the topside. I inspected the keel hole, but didn't measure it with a ruler. The keel hole appeared in good condition, not elongated. I placed the new pin inside of the hole and checked the clearance, which seemed to be 1/4" when the pin was pulled tight to one side. When I replaced the keel pin, I added extra nylon spacers on each side of the pin to eliminate the side to side play. It works fine. Also, replace your keel cable while you're doing the job. Make sure you place the cable aft of the turning ball. All of this can be purchased at Catilina Direct. There is a good diagram on page 4.13.2 of their C22 handbook.
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Ted
Should be NO play . . .
I recently serviced my swing keel, so I know it is in good shape. I just tried to lift the front of the keel to check the play as you suggested. The keel does not move at all; the boat lifts. Any visible movement of the keel should be taken as keel wear that needs to be corrected. I know that the bushings are a tight fit with only a few 1/1000 THs play. So any play would be signs of wear. If you are going to inspect a boat, bring a scissor jack and make the check. I would not actually lift the boat, as it is not designed to be lifted by the keel. Regards, Ted
I recently serviced my swing keel, so I know it is in good shape. I just tried to lift the front of the keel to check the play as you suggested. The keel does not move at all; the boat lifts. Any visible movement of the keel should be taken as keel wear that needs to be corrected. I know that the bushings are a tight fit with only a few 1/1000 THs play. So any play would be signs of wear. If you are going to inspect a boat, bring a scissor jack and make the check. I would not actually lift the boat, as it is not designed to be lifted by the keel. Regards, Ted
A
Aldo
Check for Zincs
Matt: I have written about this several times in the past. If you read the books that originally came with the C-22s, they tell you that you should put zincs onto your keel if you keep it in salt water. I actually have 2 sets of zincs on my keel near and aft of the pin. I always put a fresh set of zincs on mine every spring, and scrape of the set off that I am leaving on from the year before. I actually believe that the cast iron gets eaten up by galvanic corrosion caused by the silicon bronze pin. I looked at mine a few years ago after reading some of the horror stories on this fourm. It looked like new. I would say that I had less than 1/64th inch of clearance between the pin and the keel. I think that's pretty good for almost 20 summers in the water. I could be wrong, have any of you that had elongated holes in your keels, regularly replaced your keel zincs? I would look for zincs on the keel if I was looking for another C-22. I think your idea of trying to take the weight off the keel and then trying to move it is OK. You might consider going inside the boat and taking the slack out of the keel cable. You may need someone else to help you with this, because it may not actually go far enough to lock. Then go under the boat and jack the keel up, and try to wiggle the keel around, side to side and front to back. At worst, you would probably make the seller think that you really know what to look for, and might give put yourself in a better barganing position, as long as you don't break anything. Aldo
Matt: I have written about this several times in the past. If you read the books that originally came with the C-22s, they tell you that you should put zincs onto your keel if you keep it in salt water. I actually have 2 sets of zincs on my keel near and aft of the pin. I always put a fresh set of zincs on mine every spring, and scrape of the set off that I am leaving on from the year before. I actually believe that the cast iron gets eaten up by galvanic corrosion caused by the silicon bronze pin. I looked at mine a few years ago after reading some of the horror stories on this fourm. It looked like new. I would say that I had less than 1/64th inch of clearance between the pin and the keel. I think that's pretty good for almost 20 summers in the water. I could be wrong, have any of you that had elongated holes in your keels, regularly replaced your keel zincs? I would look for zincs on the keel if I was looking for another C-22. I think your idea of trying to take the weight off the keel and then trying to move it is OK. You might consider going inside the boat and taking the slack out of the keel cable. You may need someone else to help you with this, because it may not actually go far enough to lock. Then go under the boat and jack the keel up, and try to wiggle the keel around, side to side and front to back. At worst, you would probably make the seller think that you really know what to look for, and might give put yourself in a better barganing position, as long as you don't break anything. Aldo
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