Keel bolts

[Tom Disher]

Okay here goes for the umteenth time.I want to replace the washer under my keel bolts on a C30 (1979). The original bolts are in great shape, the nuts somewhat lesser. I figure I will cut the nuts, split and remove one at a time (boat in water) chase the thread, replace washer (stainless) and nut (galvanized/cadium plated). Any comments or suggestions.Bye the way, great forum, has been very helpful.Toms/v Simple Pleasures (hull 503)

 

[Tom Soko]

Why not SS nuts?

Tom,If you're going thru all that trouble, why not replace the nuts w/SS nuts, also? Harder to find, I'm sure, but maybe worth it in the long run? Just a thought.

 

[Bill]

DId the same thing

Hi,Did exactly the same thing a few weeks ago. I used plated lock nuts (purchased from the auto store. I found that by using a hammer and chisel I could get the nuts to turn and after they had started turning I could get them off with a stilson? wrench. A couple of bolts required the use of a nut splitter but again once the nuts were just about split open a few strukes with the hammer and chisel would start them turning. I had my engine out at the time so it was easy to change the nut under the engine as well.Used lots of anti seize when installing the new nuts and torqued them down to 60ftlbsBill

 

[Allen]

Another approach...

Tom,I, too, did this repair in 2001 only I used a propane torch and a BIG pair of vice grip pliers. Heat was key for me...the nuts turned easily. By the looks of them, I'd say they were original on my '77 C-30. Threads underneath were still good on the bolts.As for stainless, experts have said it's a bad idea to mix stainless nuts with mild steel bolts in a corrosive marine environment. With the bolts being "less noble" than the nuts, the bolts will corrode first leaving you with a major headache if you need to drill & reinstall new lag bolts.Stick with mild steel & plan on replacing every 5 years or so.Allen Schweitzers/v FalstaffC-30 Hull# 632