Keel bolts

[Best of Times]

I’ve read the thread from 2013 on bolt size and torque and almost ready to do this. No signs of leakage but first time pulling boat after buying and racing my 1984 25.5 last year.
Worried that the small “crack” or smile I see is new vs. old??
Do I really need to loosen and inspect or can I just go right to 132# with my torque wrench?
Thanks in advance!
Z

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Photo of keel to hull joint please. Are you sure bilge is dry?

 

[Best of Times]

Hi Dave
Totally dry. 5 bolts and one has a ground wire under it that looks sketchy. Thx for quick reply. Hoping to paint hull after fixing “crack”
Z

 

[dmax]

I would remove the nuts, inspect and clean the bolts - there can be hidden corrosion you can't see with the nuts on. This would be the better approach but you don't have to - you can just tighten them. The crack looks pretty significant, clean it out as deep as you can make sure the keel is solidly attached.

 

[Terry Cox]

You must consider temporary anything done from the outside. An abbreviated permanent repair requires doing the following IMHO:

1. Separate keel from hull.
2. Clean and fair both sides of stub joint.
3. Apply a liberal amount of 3M-5200 to keel surfaces.
4. Set hull back onto keel.
5. Torque keel bolts.
6. Re-torque keel bolts after 3M-5200 cures.
7. Bottom sealer and paint as appropriate for your waters.

P.S. Been there, done that.

 

[Best of Times]

Thanks for the advice. I’m gonna have to go the patch route for now Terry. If I was retired and stored it indoors with a lift system I might consider separating the hull. Let’s hope I can win a race before she falls off!
Z

 

[Terry Cox]

Thanks for the advice. I’m gonna have to go the patch route for now Terry. If I was retired and stored it indoors with a lift system I might consider separating the hull. Let’s hope I can win a race before she falls off!
Z

You're welcome. You should be okay for the short term, but would definitely have it in your future work plan. No need to have it stored indoors, nor unstep the mast. Just some outfit that can lift the boat off of the keel while a fabricator guy can clean up the stub and keel and make ready to rebed. We're only talking about a separation of an hour or two. Then placing the boat back onto the keel, torque the bolts and let the 3M-5200 cure. Easy peasy.

 

[Best of Times]

You didn’t happen to video your process did you? I just got back from seeing my sister in Tampa and had to go to the boat show. Was hoping to see the Z24 boat of year but it wasn’t there. What’s your thoughts on it?

 

[Terry Cox]

You didn’t happen to video your process did you?

Unfortunately, no. It's in my head, but I have not found a way to get it to a thumb drive. A reputable boat facility can provide you with the details. We did ours in 2004 and it has remained solid ever since. Hard to tell from your photo, but yours does not look very good. It appears that the stub joint has been compromised, normally not by regular use, but by some sort of strike or hard grounding. Water might not be leaking into the boat, but there may be water inside the stub joint, which is not good over the long haul.

 

[dlochner]

It may not be necessary to drop the keel, but you don't know that yet. Some excavating on the keel/hull joint is needed to determine how extensive or serious the problem may be.

Cracks along the keel/hull joint are pretty common, usually referred to as "[boat brand] smile." The issue could simply be a succession of poorly executed attempts to fix the smile. If that is all it is, then there may be no need to drop the keel.

Check the keelbolt and retorque the nuts. The proper torque is not necessarily the maximum torque for bolt size, it the amount pressure between the bolt head and nut and how much compression the hull can tolerate between the nut and bolt head. For example, Sabre recommends 90# of torque on the 1 ⅛" keel bolts on my boat, that is far lower than the max torque for a 1 ⅛" SS bolt. Over torquing can also gall the threads, a bad thing.

 

[Best of Times]

Thanks guys. Agree it needs more investigation. I’m docked in some shallow water and I did possibly ground a bit when I drifted shallow once when my jib line got pinched.
But the patching work seems like an old job that could have been done better. Trying to track down a prior owner.
Wondering if I should torque at 90vs 132#?

 

[dlochner]

Wondering if I should torque at 90vs 132#?

I would unless someone can find documentation from Hunter that says otherwise.

 

[Best of Times]

Prior owner just contacted me and said it was just a seam with sloppy caulking that makes it look bad. He’s going to check it out in person tomorrow to make sure. I’ll let you all know how this all washes out. Appreciate the community

 

[obxjeff]

The picture looks a lot worse than just a smile which a piece of paper can fit in, my thumb could fit in this and the core looks exposed? There is also a lot of water leaching out in several places. I hope I'm wrong but keel bolt torque should be the least of your concern,

 

[jssailem]

Let’s hope I can win a race before she falls off!

Here is a “Cautionary Saga” of what can happen. Early prevention of developing problems is what keeps boats afloat and owners happy.

A Cautionary Saga | WoodenBoat

www.woodenboat.com

 

[Best of Times]

Thanks J
I had a lucky penny on my deck after surviving my first 15-20 gusts.
I can’t find it now and your tale made me remember this. I wonder how many sailors are superstitious?