My 1994 Hunter 30T has been leaking mysteriously...hauled it to check and determined water coming from the keel/hull area....removed nuts from keel bolts and resealed with 5200...while retorqueing, a few are moving with the bolt! Seem to be stripped. This looks bad...solution(s)? Hunter Tech Svc is in vacation for a week.
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Break Out Another Thousand!
Not trying to be cute here, there isn't going to be a cheap fix. It's probably going to have to be dropped and this is pretty much not a do it yourself deal. Sorry!
Not trying to be cute here, there isn't going to be a cheap fix. It's probably going to have to be dropped and this is pretty much not a do it yourself deal. Sorry!Not sure but
Maybe someone with experience in doing this will reply. I believe Catalina sells long lag bolts for this application. You could try this as a supplement to your existing bolts.
Maybe someone with experience in doing this will reply. I believe Catalina sells long lag bolts for this application. You could try this as a supplement to your existing bolts.
Are you sure that is where the leak is
coming from the keel bolts? Do you have a void above the keel. My Hunter 28 did. To test for leaks pump all the water out and towel dry. Spray foaming bubbles cleaner in the area. Any leaks will show up as water moves the foam. I think all keel bolts leak a little. I would not worry about it. Do you think that 5200 under the washers is going to stop water from coming in? It might slow it down. Even is you drop the keel and seal it real good it might leak again in a couple of years. I have seen lots of keel bolts that look like trouble to get the nuts off. I am sure you have to work hard to get them off. I don't thinks it is not worth it. You own a production saliboat. Just enjoy the boat. It will never be perfect.
coming from the keel bolts? Do you have a void above the keel. My Hunter 28 did. To test for leaks pump all the water out and towel dry. Spray foaming bubbles cleaner in the area. Any leaks will show up as water moves the foam. I think all keel bolts leak a little. I would not worry about it. Do you think that 5200 under the washers is going to stop water from coming in? It might slow it down. Even is you drop the keel and seal it real good it might leak again in a couple of years. I have seen lots of keel bolts that look like trouble to get the nuts off. I am sure you have to work hard to get them off. I don't thinks it is not worth it. You own a production saliboat. Just enjoy the boat. It will never be perfect.
W A I T ! ! ! ! !
This may not be too serious orrrrrrrrr it could be very critical. I would take JOHN's suggestion and check the Catalina site. They have detailed info for replacing keel bolts. I would use that info for what it is...INFO, because you dont own a Catalina. Then my next step would be to do NOTHING until you talk to Hunter Tech service. Your conversation with them will be more meaningful since you read the Catalina info first and have a basic understanding. Best of luck. Tony B
This may not be too serious orrrrrrrrr it could be very critical. I would take JOHN's suggestion and check the Catalina site. They have detailed info for replacing keel bolts. I would use that info for what it is...INFO, because you dont own a Catalina. Then my next step would be to do NOTHING until you talk to Hunter Tech service. Your conversation with them will be more meaningful since you read the Catalina info first and have a basic understanding. Best of luck. Tony B
Sounds like either
your keel bolts are broken (the bolts shouldn't turn when you are torquing the nuts) or Hunter drills and taps your iron keel, and the threads are stripped. Either way, you have problems, and as a previous poster said: Break Out Another Thousand. You need to get this on the hard to tighten the hull - keel joint, then as a minimum, you need to install new keel bolts. If Hynter uses a lead keel, you can use Lag Bolts (ala Catalina). However, I believe that your keel is iron (check with a magnet). If this is the case, you will need to drill and tap your keel, then install a treeaded rod / nut combination. To make certain that your keel is snug to the hull, the boat must be sitting on the keel that is on the hard (or perhaps a cradle) with at least 75% of the weight supported by the keel. Once new bolts are in, chip the hull - keel joint, back it with a sealant (5200 will work, but you may want to use 4200), fair in teh joint, and tape over the fairing with glass tape / resin. It's probably best to leave this to an expert, so BOAT. Steve Alchemist C-320
your keel bolts are broken (the bolts shouldn't turn when you are torquing the nuts) or Hunter drills and taps your iron keel, and the threads are stripped. Either way, you have problems, and as a previous poster said: Break Out Another Thousand. You need to get this on the hard to tighten the hull - keel joint, then as a minimum, you need to install new keel bolts. If Hynter uses a lead keel, you can use Lag Bolts (ala Catalina). However, I believe that your keel is iron (check with a magnet). If this is the case, you will need to drill and tap your keel, then install a treeaded rod / nut combination. To make certain that your keel is snug to the hull, the boat must be sitting on the keel that is on the hard (or perhaps a cradle) with at least 75% of the weight supported by the keel. Once new bolts are in, chip the hull - keel joint, back it with a sealant (5200 will work, but you may want to use 4200), fair in teh joint, and tape over the fairing with glass tape / resin. It's probably best to leave this to an expert, so BOAT. Steve Alchemist C-320
What street? Do you take a check?
Waffle, not that you would care to, but if you looked at a drawing of the H34 keel mounting method you would note that only the front and rear bolts, as seen from inside the boat, are connected to the keel. The four 'winged-out' bolts between them are connected to corresponding T-brackets that are somehow connected to the ballast. The T-brackets are receded into the hull on either side of the keel. I filled the factory slop covering the recesses during 'new boat commissioning' and faired smooth. So if water is entering from the keel bolts, that's the least of your problems. The boat has already been destroyed.
Waffle, not that you would care to, but if you looked at a drawing of the H34 keel mounting method you would note that only the front and rear bolts, as seen from inside the boat, are connected to the keel. The four 'winged-out' bolts between them are connected to corresponding T-brackets that are somehow connected to the ballast. The T-brackets are receded into the hull on either side of the keel. I filled the factory slop covering the recesses during 'new boat commissioning' and faired smooth. So if water is entering from the keel bolts, that's the least of your problems. The boat has already been destroyed.
Fred, yours may not leak
that is one heck of a restore job! With the cost of time and material you could have got a new H 33 but it would not be buill as well. No, I believe your keel bolts don't leak.
that is one heck of a restore job! With the cost of time and material you could have got a new H 33 but it would not be buill as well. No, I believe your keel bolts don't leak.
Hunter's spin
I have spoken with Hunter! They advise: The keel is cast iron, drilled, tapped, and bolts set with epoxy. Hopefully the "loose" bolts happened when removing the nuts for rebedding...they advised treading the bolt back down as far as possible and add the nut...if the bolt can be backed out all the way, put epoxy in the hole and retread, add nut and torque as recommended. If this does not work e.g. the bolts are really stripped, depending on how many (in my case only two as it turns out) do you best to seal them up with 5200 and live with it; or if more than two, then get out the big bucks or dumpster
I have spoken with Hunter! They advise: The keel is cast iron, drilled, tapped, and bolts set with epoxy. Hopefully the "loose" bolts happened when removing the nuts for rebedding...they advised treading the bolt back down as far as possible and add the nut...if the bolt can be backed out all the way, put epoxy in the hole and retread, add nut and torque as recommended. If this does not work e.g. the bolts are really stripped, depending on how many (in my case only two as it turns out) do you best to seal them up with 5200 and live with it; or if more than two, then get out the big bucks or dumpster
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