Does anyone have any experience removing the nuts on the keel bolts and taking the backing plates off to recaulk under the backing plates? Seems like it should be possible while the boat is on the hard and the keel supported. The caulk under the backing plates on my O'Day 34 (1984) is coming out and I fear that bilge water (via the mast) is getting under the backing plates and working it's way into the keel. I have a small damp spot on the port side of the keel that has been repaired by a yard once already. I only have this issue when I leave the mast up during the winter (even shrink wrapped) because water comes into the bilge via the mast.
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Been there
Sandy Pulled the bolts and the square washers 3 years ago. As long as it is on the hard just take off nuts a pair at a time and reinstalling before removing any others. When the nuts are off use a putty knife to get under and lift the square washers. Clean out the caulking, clean and dry the hole around the bolt and around the washer as well as the washer with a stainless steel wire brush. If there is any sign of rust then your keel bolt is probably corroding and sometime you will need to drop the keel and clean it and reseal the joint. I did and found half a thread corroded away on one bolt. Use 3m 5200 around the keel bolt and under the washer, reseat the square washer and round washer. Put anti-sieze on the keel bolt and screw the nut back on and torque to 160 ft-lbs. Then do the next pair. I got the torque from Rudy at D&R Marine. Mine is an 89 O'Day 35 which I believe is the same lead keel and keel bolt arrangement. Also as suggested by Don Casey in one of his articles on Sailnet a few years ago. Search Sailnet.com archives for "keel bolts". I encapsulated the whole bolt washer down to glass area around the washer with thickened epoxy so that I am not concerned about bilge water getting down in the bolts. It is not hard to knock it off with a chisle and hammer to inspect the bolts for rust. I am at dave@towndock.net if any of this is not clear. Goodwinds, Dave M s/v DAMWEGAS
Sandy Pulled the bolts and the square washers 3 years ago. As long as it is on the hard just take off nuts a pair at a time and reinstalling before removing any others. When the nuts are off use a putty knife to get under and lift the square washers. Clean out the caulking, clean and dry the hole around the bolt and around the washer as well as the washer with a stainless steel wire brush. If there is any sign of rust then your keel bolt is probably corroding and sometime you will need to drop the keel and clean it and reseal the joint. I did and found half a thread corroded away on one bolt. Use 3m 5200 around the keel bolt and under the washer, reseat the square washer and round washer. Put anti-sieze on the keel bolt and screw the nut back on and torque to 160 ft-lbs. Then do the next pair. I got the torque from Rudy at D&R Marine. Mine is an 89 O'Day 35 which I believe is the same lead keel and keel bolt arrangement. Also as suggested by Don Casey in one of his articles on Sailnet a few years ago. Search Sailnet.com archives for "keel bolts". I encapsulated the whole bolt washer down to glass area around the washer with thickened epoxy so that I am not concerned about bilge water getting down in the bolts. It is not hard to knock it off with a chisle and hammer to inspect the bolts for rust. I am at dave@towndock.net if any of this is not clear. Goodwinds, Dave M s/v DAMWEGAS
Caulk the Mast Grooves
While you're at it, have you sealed the sail track slot and the pair of slots on the forward surface of the mast where it passes through the boot? I had the same problem the 1st time that my 35 wintered on the hard. Early in storage I found that an amazing amount of water had slid down the mast and into the bilge. (Scary too, it case that it would have frozen there!) I sealed the abovementioned 3 openings, pumped the bilge -- problem gone.
While you're at it, have you sealed the sail track slot and the pair of slots on the forward surface of the mast where it passes through the boot? I had the same problem the 1st time that my 35 wintered on the hard. Early in storage I found that an amazing amount of water had slid down the mast and into the bilge. (Scary too, it case that it would have frozen there!) I sealed the abovementioned 3 openings, pumped the bilge -- problem gone.
Thanks Dave
Dave, Thanks for the help. I knew I couldn't be the only boat owner that ever needed to do this job, but the guys at the yard ( THE major yard in our area) seemed to suggest that this was "the coming of the end of the world." Their estimate for removing the bolts and doing just what you described was in excess of 7,000.00 and they would not do the one without my being prepared to completely removing the keel (additional estimate of 5,000.00 up depending on what they find when it is off). Overkill in my view at this point. I see no evidence of rust anywhere, as yet, and hope to do the procedure as a preventive measure. What did you use to measure the 160 pressure turn on the finished bolt? I have always had the yard check the bolts every couple of years and been told they were at specks. Also, I thought the 5200 was strictly for "never to be removed" seals. I had been told to run a bead of 4200 around the plates without removing them. I was afraid this type of stop-gap seal would not be enough, thus my original question. I have done business with Rudy also and found him a great help. He and D&R biuld my new rudder two years ago and did a splendid job for what seemed to me a very reasonable price. I love my O'Day and would like to keep her sailing in great shape at least a few more years. My glass is in great shape, in fact you can't find a hairline anywhere on deck, and it has just undergone a refit, except engine, in the last two years. Thanks Again Sandy
Dave, Thanks for the help. I knew I couldn't be the only boat owner that ever needed to do this job, but the guys at the yard ( THE major yard in our area) seemed to suggest that this was "the coming of the end of the world." Their estimate for removing the bolts and doing just what you described was in excess of 7,000.00 and they would not do the one without my being prepared to completely removing the keel (additional estimate of 5,000.00 up depending on what they find when it is off). Overkill in my view at this point. I see no evidence of rust anywhere, as yet, and hope to do the procedure as a preventive measure. What did you use to measure the 160 pressure turn on the finished bolt? I have always had the yard check the bolts every couple of years and been told they were at specks. Also, I thought the 5200 was strictly for "never to be removed" seals. I had been told to run a bead of 4200 around the plates without removing them. I was afraid this type of stop-gap seal would not be enough, thus my original question. I have done business with Rudy also and found him a great help. He and D&R biuld my new rudder two years ago and did a splendid job for what seemed to me a very reasonable price. I love my O'Day and would like to keep her sailing in great shape at least a few more years. My glass is in great shape, in fact you can't find a hairline anywhere on deck, and it has just undergone a refit, except engine, in the last two years. Thanks Again Sandy
Thanks Jon
Thanks Jon for the idea. I had not sealed them, but will this weekend! I do have a new mast boot on and could never figure out how so much water could be getting down the mast to start with since I have a very well maintained and, I thought, sealed mast. Sandy
Thanks Jon for the idea. I had not sealed them, but will this weekend! I do have a new mast boot on and could never figure out how so much water could be getting down the mast to start with since I have a very well maintained and, I thought, sealed mast. Sandy
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