Keel Attached

[NYSail]

Hello all,My previous boat (1977 Cal 34 III) had a dropped in lead balast glassed into the keel so I am new to the bolt-on type.I see the keel bolts, however was wondering how they build up the strength of the hull where the keel is attached. What type of problems occur with the keel / hull connection? Should the joint between the keel and hull be faired out with epoxy? What type of maintenance is needed?Opinions and advise appreciatedThanksGreg1986 P36-2

 

[Blue Eyes]

keel joint & fuel filter

Hi Greg,I've been away from this board for a while dealing with repairs caused by a collision last August (T-boned by a Tartan 4100 during a race). Boat's going back in this week.Last year I used 3M 4200 to seal and fair out the keel joint. It held up great and survived 2 soft groundings. I've was warned against epoxy becacuse a grounding is more likely to crack the joint or damage the hull.If I recall correctly, you installed a Racor 500 filter in your36-2. If this is correct, where did you put it. I have a Racor 120 mounted on the starboard side of the eengine compartment that I would like to replace with a larger filter but the 500 in the same spot would be a tight fit and significantly block engine access. Any cruise plans this year?Brad

 

[NYSail]

Fits

Brad,The Racor 500 fits perfectly in the engine compartment, starboard side above the engine. Good point for service and not blocking any access. I will take a picture and post Wednesday for you to see. I had a siphon break there before for the engine cooling, but moved that higher up as the original location was just above the water line....higher is better so I ran the hose behind the stairs all the way up on center and then back into the engine compartment again to exit the exhaust.Do you have an anti-freeze overflow tank/reservoir? I do not, but am going to add one this season and am looking for ideas.We are making plans to do a few cruises to Conn. Love to get to Block this year, but I think that will wait until next...but you never know wher the wind will blow us. Any plans for you this year? Maybe the Long Island Sound?Greg

 

[Blue Eyes]

Photo would be great

My siphon break is still in the engine compartment - maybe I'll move it as you have done. The subtank for my cooling system is mounted in front of the engine under the seat - near the seacock. I'll try to get a picture for you. Manual says to mount it at the same level as the water tank. My engine is a 3HM35F. I can scan the pages from the service manual if you need them.

 

[NYSail]

Pictures

of the overflow would be great...thanks! I will get and send pictures todayGreg

 

[NYSail]

Pictures

of the overflow would be great...thanks! I will get and send pictures todayGreg

 

[NYSail]

Gives more

room also as compared with mine that has the hose coming over the engine. I will have to get one like that.....Thanks for the Pictures and advise Amere.Amere, have you been out yet? any plans for western sound sailing this summer? Maybe this summer I will see you out there....Greg

 

[Ariel]

Standard plumbing pipe

Greg,I replaced the sink drain piping some years ago for the same reason, to move it away from the top of the engine. I got the pipe and fittings from one of the big box stores, probably HD.By the way. A word of caution about relocating the exhaust anti-siphon away from the engine. Make sure that you run a tube from the valve back to the bilge or somewhare that you can see the outlet. If and when the valve sticks or gets a piece of salt or sand lodged in it you will see the trickle of water. We have had the valve stick open twice and once jamb so that water was pulled back into the engine. The return loop only has to be higher than the heat exchanger to prevent water from being sucked back from the muffler. Next to the sink, in the engine compartment is more than adequate.Dave

 

[Blue Eyes]

The drain setup was on the boat

when I bought it but you should find it any place that has plumbing supplies. Last year I replaced the drain fittings in the bottom of the sink because they were getting a little corroded - that and a new faucet (all standard items bought at HD) made the sink look great - which is nice because it is the first thing you see upon entering the cabin. I did have a leak at the starboard sink drain connection that was caused by forward pressure against the sink drain hose by the anti-siphon hose. This was solved by the relocation of the anti-siphon hose.I replaced the anti-siphon valve with a Vetus Airvent. The instuctions indicate it should be a minimum of 16" above the WL. It also recommends regular maintenance by disassembling and cleaning the valve and spraying with teflon spray before refitting.My Pearson info contained a notice cautioning that the tube running back to the bilge must terminate 12"above the bilge/sump area. I believe the notice was sent to owners because a problem arose in a boat where the tube terminated "underwater" in the bilge. I suppose this could prevent the valve from operating properly.

 

[Gregg]

Wing Keel

I have a P36-2 with a fin keel which has become a bit of a problem with Lake Michigans diminshing water level. Does anyone know of a source for the P36-2 wing keel as a replacement?

 

[NYSail]

A New Keel

can be designed specifically for your boat. There are a few companies out there, however I cannot recall the names. Do a google search as well as a search of the archives on tthis list as I recall reading about keel replacement here a while backGood luckGreg

 

[Maine Sail]

Mars Metal

Mars Metal is the company you want for a shorter keel. They will sell you a kit to add a bulb to your keel and cut it shorter. This is in most cases NOT a DIY job..LINK HERE:http://www.marsmetal.com/