Just finished my $20 pvc hand rails

[Joe]

those do look good...

but the fun easy part is over.... now its time for install.

I wish all I ever had to do was create and build, and have someone else do the install for me... cuz if there are any headaches in the project, thats where i will find them, during the install....

That's my next question, also. Thank you centerline... So, Kito, what is your installation strategy for these beautiful creatures.
I'm guessing use the existing holes on the deck to mark pilot holes in the pvc... but will it hold a self tap, or do you need to thread and insert studs?

 

[kito]

The original teak rails were just wood screwed into the cabin top with the screw heads plugged. It held up for 35 years so don't see a need to change. The cabin top on my H30 has 3/8" thick fiberglass with 1/2" plywood core. The existing screw holes in the top are going to be drilled out and filled with epoxy. I am going to relocate the new rail slightly to start in a fresh area. Each rail will be predrilled with 11 screw clearance holes and counterbores for the screw head plugs (going to make pvc plugs with my plug cutter). It's just a matter of starting at one end, tap drill into the roof, screw it down and work my way down the length. It was suggested that I through bolt them on. I really don't want to make this more difficult than it needs to be. I will see how this goes first. I can always though bolt it later if needed.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Kito,

Great bench work pal. They will look great. I remember all the dust sticking when I changed my topside wood with a PVC type (Sensibuilt). It took forever to get it all up, those routers throw it everywhere.

I do hope you are going to thrubolt with countersinks & plugs for attaching to the cabin top.

If attaching from below with wood screws I would think twice. PVC threads are softer & not as strong as wood. handrails are very important & the attachments need be secure. You may decide to do every other one but, if I were doing this, I would feel more secure knowing I'm thrubolted at least on both ends & a middle location. The tensile strength should be fine in this design for strength. Way to go!

Just wanted to add my thoughts on bolting pal.

CR

 

[kito]

Thanks for your comments CR. Glad to hear others are using pvc board. Did you use a white board or a colored board?. Just wondering if left white how the color is holding up. There will be no threads in the pvc....only clearance holes for the screw. Like I said earlier, the original teak rails were screwed from the top and into the thick fiberglass/plywood top with 11 bronze wood screws and were still rock steady after 35 years. After I install all the wood screws and find they are not biting like I want, I will just drill though and through bolt it. At least the wood screws will have marked my drilling location. I just really don't want to add 22 acorn nuts to my cabin roof for my head scrape on. I kind of like Joe's idea of installing threaded inserts and use SS machine bolts too. I can coat the outer threads with epoxy and screw into the roof and run my machine bolts into it without coming through the inside. At least the insert will have a larger thread to grip into the roof. Just curious, has anyone been saved from going into the drink by hanging onto the cabin top rails? Seems like that's what the life lines are for.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Kito,

Good news on the bolting, great minds think alike. The PVC I used was for a teak look on deck. The material I bought was for decorative decking plus 1" x 12" x however long fascia boards. It's now sold from "Outdoor Flooring Co." (@ 717.336.7900 Ohio).

The only thing I didn't like was the cut edge brush-on finish. It didn't match the coloring, but, I'm sure they have the right tint now. I know they make a clear finish coat you might be able to use. If I were you, I would look for a clear spray or brush-on finish to seal the cut edges.

Here's what my wood looked like. It was the closest to teak I could find but, PVC. Never use a product called Plasteak".

CR

 

[kito]

That looks fantastic CR. I wish Lowes or HD carried that in stock. I would have went that route. I am determined to stay within my budget on this project. I will see how my teak crib boards and frame sand and clean up. They are original and the grain is standing fairly proud of the softer wood. I will go your route if they can't be saved. Certainteed recommends applying a thin coat of silicone over the cut surfaces to resist water if it's not painted. This stuff is pvc but not as dense as pvc pipe is. Probably for weight reasons.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Kito,

Thanks pal.

For your wood, see if you can take it down enough first. When I used to varnish, I used a two part stripper called Snappy Teak. This stuff was a dream. A two-part cleaner & bleacher that brought the teak when dry to look like sandlewood without sanding away your wood.

A very light sanding at the end & with the first coat of varnish, every stroke was like instant gratuitous SEX. I tried alot of others but, this I thought was the best.
If want to try this, You may have to mail order it if you can't find it locally.

CR

 

[Sumner]

... Like I said earlier, the original teak rails were screwed from the top and into the thick fiberglass/plywood top with 11 bronze wood screws and were still rock steady after 35 years.....

No reason for these to not be the same. I'll bet they will be plenty strong,

Sumner
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================

Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links[/FONT]

 

[Sumner]

....When I used to varnish, I used a two part stripper called Snappy Teak.....

If the teak still had some old varnish or Cetol (or a product like it) did you scrap that all off first or will it remove it also?

Thanks,

Sumner

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================

Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links[/FONT]

 

[patrickfarley]

Just had to say it looks great

 

[BobM]

Just in case you want to paint. I put plastic trim on my house due to rot which occurred previously. My trim is a dark brown, and dark colors are not recommended due to the significant expansion of these materials due to temperature. I found Sherwin Williams Superpaint was recommended for plastic trim and used it. No problems through six years in MA even with lots of direct sunlight. I do have to say that I am concerned that you may have problems with your very ling hand rails. Over a ten foot span from what I see the expansion can easily be a half inch. Maybe your boat will match that better than my house lol.

 

[kito]

Thanks for the info BobM. Didn't think about the thermal expansion. I figured expansion was not an issue since it is used for exterior windows and door trim. You would think there would be waviness and buckling going on with that much expansion. This is basically an experiment I am doing. I wouldn't recommend one trying this until I report back in about a year Since the rails will be drilled with clearance holes for the wood screw, maybe I need to drill them oversized to leave some room for expansion. Btw, when you painted yours did you have to scuff up the surface and prime first?. I heard SW Duration paint worked well too. Just needs to be a 100% acrylic latex paint.

 

[woodster]

Thanks for the info BobM. Didn't think about the thermal expansion. I figured expansion was not an issue since it is used for exterior windows and door trim. You would think there would be waviness and buckling going on with that much expansion. This is basically an experiment I am doing. I wouldn't recommend one trying this until I report back in about a year Since the rails will be drilled with clearance holes for the wood screw, maybe I need to drill them oversized to leave some room for expansion. Btw, when you painted yours did you have to scuff up the surface and prime first?. I heard SW Duration paint worked well too. Just needs to be a 100% acrylic latex paint.

with the amount of fasteners you will be using i don't think expansion will be a problem ...that 1/2 inch he is talking about is an over all thing ...you will be dividing the load with the fasteners that will be about 1/16 of an inch or less between fasteners probably about twice what wood would do in this application

an after thought ...you have removed most of the bulk of the board by making the hand holds thus reducing the bulk you won't have as much to expand and contract

 

[pateco]

I used PVC Board to replace my Companionway door. So far very Happy with the results/

Here is what it looked like before we got the boat.

PO Fixed with plywood before we picked it up in Baltimore.

Used the old pieces as a template.

Checked the fit.

Trimmed and Completed.

Check out the rest of our restoration at the link in my signature

 

[Walter Bostic]

picture

I got 2 113" long hand rails out of a 1" thick pvc board I bought at Lowes. It cuts and routes very nice. I was wanting to paint them black but dark colors are not recommended by CertainTeed. I may just leave white or paint a light tan with acrylic latex paint. I won't be able to mount them until I paint the cabin top first with Kiwigrip. I think they will work just fine though. I clamp it down to the table to test the strength of the hand hold area and seems very sturdy. They are about 2.5 wide with the cut out about 1.25. I cut the cutouts with just an upcut HSS spiral bit in one pass. Cuts like butter.

"Would be great to see a picture of the hand rails installed.

 

[kito]

"Would be great to see a picture of the hand rails installed.

I am anxious to see how they look mounted too. I may temporarily mount one this weekend and take a picture. I just don't want to intall them before I Kiwigrip my deck. That will be probably March or April. My anti-skid will be white so wondering how white rails on white deck will look. I would prefer a contrast.

 

[Sumner]

...My anti-skid will be white so wondering how white rails on white deck will look. I would prefer a contrast.

How about a long oval grey area under the handrails or other contrasting color?

Sumner

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]============================

Our Endeavour 37

Our MacGregor 26-S Pages

Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links[/FONT]

 

[kito]

Funny you said that. I was just thinking about maybe taking my Kiwigrip to Lowes and see if they would tint my white to a very light grey color. Not sure if they tint paint not bought there though. I guess I could buy a quart of grey Kiwigrip and mix it with my gallon of white. I want a real light grey anyway.

 

[The Garbone]

Have you put down kiwi grip before? I would install the rails and trace out and mask off the spots the rails come in contact with the deck.

When I did our kiwigrip I masked off (mummified with newsprint) my handrails and just kiwi gripped around them.

 

[kito]

Have you put down kiwi grip before? I would install the rails and trace out and mask off the spots the rails come in contact with the deck.

When I did our kiwigrip I masked off (mummified with newsprint) my handrails and just kiwi gripped around them.

No, haven't used it or seen it applied before. Is it too rubbery and textured to mount the rails on? I was going to use MS's butyl tape on all the rail mounting surfaces to fill up the gaps and seal the screws.