I would like to see this forum continue, but it seems everyone is using the mid-sized boat forum instead. Come on 310 owners!!
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Just to add to the thread...
I hear ya, Tim! I don't know why we 310 owners have a hard time keeping a good stream of discussions going here. I'm finishing a new set of cheap hatch boards for my boat. I'm going to put these on the boat this weekend when I winterize it. Then I'll be able to bring home my good teak boards and refinish them over the winter months. I think I'll keep the cheap boards and use them every winter to preserve the finish on my good ones. By the way- I'm going to use Honey Teak when I refinish my good boards.
I hear ya, Tim! I don't know why we 310 owners have a hard time keeping a good stream of discussions going here. I'm finishing a new set of cheap hatch boards for my boat. I'm going to put these on the boat this weekend when I winterize it. Then I'll be able to bring home my good teak boards and refinish them over the winter months. I think I'll keep the cheap boards and use them every winter to preserve the finish on my good ones. By the way- I'm going to use Honey Teak when I refinish my good boards.
Great Stuff Mark...
Thanks for the support and good luck with the Hatch boards. I noticed you are based in KY...where do you sail?? SOME day, I may be moving to that locale...hence the reason why I asked.
Thanks for the support and good luck with the Hatch boards. I noticed you are based in KY...where do you sail?? SOME day, I may be moving to that locale...hence the reason why I asked.
Since so much is common to so many
Catalinas, using the 310 portion of this site is a good starting point, but looking at all activity and answers would help out, too. Do you guys not have your own website?
Catalinas, using the 310 portion of this site is a good starting point, but looking at all activity and answers would help out, too. Do you guys not have your own website?
Hatch Boards and Honey Teak
Mark, Just to prepare you, Honey Teak may not be quite as simple as advertised, at least it wasn't when I used it. I'm very happy with the end result but it took a great deal of work in my case. And after all the effort when I reviewed their web site and read that "so simple even a child can do it" statement--well let's just say that my experience didn't support that statement. It turned out OK and has lasted very well; so far. If you want more details, let me know. Regards, Gary C310 #230
Mark, Just to prepare you, Honey Teak may not be quite as simple as advertised, at least it wasn't when I used it. I'm very happy with the end result but it took a great deal of work in my case. And after all the effort when I reviewed their web site and read that "so simple even a child can do it" statement--well let's just say that my experience didn't support that statement. It turned out OK and has lasted very well; so far. If you want more details, let me know. Regards, Gary C310 #230
I was affraid it wouldn't be as easy as they said
Gary, Thanks for you input. I'd appreciate any advise you have to offer. I've been cautiously opptimistic about the difficulty with using the Honey Teak. They say that it is simple, but yet the instructions are a little complicated. I'm not too worried about how difficult it is because I brought my boards home for the winter to refinish them. I'll be happy as long as the finish looks good and holds up well. I've heard people say that it still looks like new on their boat after several years. For the price of the stuff it better hole up well! What was difficult about it, getting it mixed or applying it to the wood?
Gary, Thanks for you input. I'd appreciate any advise you have to offer. I've been cautiously opptimistic about the difficulty with using the Honey Teak. They say that it is simple, but yet the instructions are a little complicated. I'm not too worried about how difficult it is because I brought my boards home for the winter to refinish them. I'll be happy as long as the finish looks good and holds up well. I've heard people say that it still looks like new on their boat after several years. For the price of the stuff it better hole up well! What was difficult about it, getting it mixed or applying it to the wood?
Hatch Boards and Honey Teak
In my case the hatch boards were about a year old and had not been previously treated with any finish or oil. Originally I'd hoped I could do the job at the boat to save making temporary hatch boards--and I'm glad I didn't try that. So, I made temps and took the boards home. It was a nice, So. CA Spring weekend with temps in the upper 70's. Mixing wasn't too bad once you get the hang of it (the supplied mixing cups help). First coat of Honey went on OK, waited approx 1 hr and applied second, and then third, exactly to the instructions. Waited appropriate time and put on first coat of clear. Started getting bubbles; looked like a bad case of warts all over. Called Honey Teak and discussed this with them (at least they answered the phone on a weekend!). Was told "no problem"; and advised to mist my hands with water and to "caress" the finish to work out the bubbles since it was still in the wet stage. Well, despite my attempts at this gentle massage technique, the bubbles persisted, but were not quite as bad. At this point I just about aborted the project and started over with new teak; but I didn't. Also at this point I sent Honey Teak a detailed email inquiry to find out what went wrong or how to fix this--never got a reply and I really didn't feel like talking to them further. Over the next several days I coated the boards with 4-6 coats of the clear on each side; letting each coat cure a day and then wet-sanding with 600 grit between each coat. The bubble problem became less and less, but I still ended up by wet sanding with 1200 grit followed by a polish job with an electric buffer and 3M medium grit rubbing compound (like you'd do on a car). They did come out looking very nice and have held up well so far (approx 3 years; and they get direct afternoon sun daily). Would I term this a "simple" job a child can do--I think not. I have a feeling that the material I happened to receive might have been partly to blame--perhaps it was just about out of date, but that is only a guess and speculation on my part. If you do use this product, be sure to sand all edges and give them a generous edge break. I did that, but not enough and those edges are showing wear and are going to need touch up first. Personally, having gone through this experience, I'd explore other materials. One would be Bristol finish. Or, I've heard good things about a different type of product--Penofin (www.penofin.com). You put on light coats and wipe off the excess. You may need to treat the boards once or twice a season, but I'm told it only takes minutes (a maintenance task rather than a project). I'm told it provides UV protection and doesn't mildew like some oils tend to. Penofin does offer a Marine Oil Finish and you may have to search a bit to find it. Good Luck and hope this information is helpful. You may want to post this in the technical section of the C310 site. Regards, Gary C310 #230
In my case the hatch boards were about a year old and had not been previously treated with any finish or oil. Originally I'd hoped I could do the job at the boat to save making temporary hatch boards--and I'm glad I didn't try that. So, I made temps and took the boards home. It was a nice, So. CA Spring weekend with temps in the upper 70's. Mixing wasn't too bad once you get the hang of it (the supplied mixing cups help). First coat of Honey went on OK, waited approx 1 hr and applied second, and then third, exactly to the instructions. Waited appropriate time and put on first coat of clear. Started getting bubbles; looked like a bad case of warts all over. Called Honey Teak and discussed this with them (at least they answered the phone on a weekend!). Was told "no problem"; and advised to mist my hands with water and to "caress" the finish to work out the bubbles since it was still in the wet stage. Well, despite my attempts at this gentle massage technique, the bubbles persisted, but were not quite as bad. At this point I just about aborted the project and started over with new teak; but I didn't. Also at this point I sent Honey Teak a detailed email inquiry to find out what went wrong or how to fix this--never got a reply and I really didn't feel like talking to them further. Over the next several days I coated the boards with 4-6 coats of the clear on each side; letting each coat cure a day and then wet-sanding with 600 grit between each coat. The bubble problem became less and less, but I still ended up by wet sanding with 1200 grit followed by a polish job with an electric buffer and 3M medium grit rubbing compound (like you'd do on a car). They did come out looking very nice and have held up well so far (approx 3 years; and they get direct afternoon sun daily). Would I term this a "simple" job a child can do--I think not. I have a feeling that the material I happened to receive might have been partly to blame--perhaps it was just about out of date, but that is only a guess and speculation on my part. If you do use this product, be sure to sand all edges and give them a generous edge break. I did that, but not enough and those edges are showing wear and are going to need touch up first. Personally, having gone through this experience, I'd explore other materials. One would be Bristol finish. Or, I've heard good things about a different type of product--Penofin (www.penofin.com). You put on light coats and wipe off the excess. You may need to treat the boards once or twice a season, but I'm told it only takes minutes (a maintenance task rather than a project). I'm told it provides UV protection and doesn't mildew like some oils tend to. Penofin does offer a Marine Oil Finish and you may have to search a bit to find it. Good Luck and hope this information is helpful. You may want to post this in the technical section of the C310 site. Regards, Gary C310 #230
Advice from an old wood butcher!
If you are not applying your finishes in a temprature controlled environment, I always recommend applying unthinned finishes in the evening when the temps are going down. If you apply heavy-bodied finishes during the part of the day when temps are rising you will get outgassing from the wood pores and the bubbles may not flow out due to the surface tension of heavy bodied material or due to a quick surface cure.
If you are not applying your finishes in a temprature controlled environment, I always recommend applying unthinned finishes in the evening when the temps are going down. If you apply heavy-bodied finishes during the part of the day when temps are rising you will get outgassing from the wood pores and the bubbles may not flow out due to the surface tension of heavy bodied material or due to a quick surface cure.
Coating Environment
Chris, Thanks for the tip--that could have been a factor. That day the temps were constant and fairly mild as I recall. Also, I was doing the job in the garage out of the direct sunlight. If it was a factor I wish that Honey Teak would have advised as such in their instructions. Perhaps those reading this will benefit. Regards, Gary
Chris, Thanks for the tip--that could have been a factor. That day the temps were constant and fairly mild as I recall. Also, I was doing the job in the garage out of the direct sunlight. If it was a factor I wish that Honey Teak would have advised as such in their instructions. Perhaps those reading this will benefit. Regards, Gary
Bubbling finish...
Gary, Thanks for the details. I'll be wary of the bubble problem when I refinish my boards. I hope I don't have the same problem. I'll report the results here when I get mine finished. I've copied your post so I can add it to our website.
Gary, Thanks for the details. I'll be wary of the bubble problem when I refinish my boards. I hope I don't have the same problem. I'll report the results here when I get mine finished. I've copied your post so I can add it to our website.
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