Does anyone have a photo or diagram of how to rig the outhaul for the 1st reef? The diagram in the manual makes no sense, at least not to me, because I can't see how the eye splice end is terminated. Also, do I need to rig a second outhaul for the second reef, or do I detach the outhaul from the first reef? I also need to know the proper way to attach the topping lift to the boom end. I see no obvious attachment point other than just looping it around the aluminum end fitting, which doesn't look real squared away to me. I am very confused.
- Status
Not sure...
No one replied to you, and I think it's because the question is a little confusing. I'll take a shot at it just to get you going, though I don't have a 33.5--I have a 336. There is no "outhaul" for a jiffy reefing system, just a reefing line which also functions as the outhaul. That's probably what you mean, I just want to be clear. The reefing line on most boats runs like this: 1. Tied to a bail (padeye looking thing) on the boom, directly below the leech cringle. I like a buntline hitch for the knot. 2. Up through the leech cringle, down to a block at or near the end of the boom. ( Most modern boats have the block at the end of the boom and the reefing line is lead inside the boom. Older, or retrofitted jiffy reefing systems have a block on the side of the boom and the line is led forward outside the boom.) 3. Through the block and probably inside the boom forward to an exit block just behind the gooseneck. For a true "jiffy" reefing system, the line is then led down to a block on deck and then back to the cockpit to a winch or some other control. When you reef, you first go forward and hook the luff cringle to the ramshorns at the gooseneck, then you pull on the jiffy reefing line to secure the leech. If you have two reef points there are two reefing lines. As for the topping lift, most booms have a hole for a shackle on top at the aftmost point. A topping lift is generally a halyard line, so it has a small eye sewn in the end through which you place screw shackle, which you then attach to the boom. There is some possibility that you have "single line" reefing, which is a variation of jiffy reefing whereby the single reefing line attached near the end of the boom is also used to pull down the luff. A giveaway for this arrangement is the fact that there are no ramshorns, but probably there are one or more fiddle blocks at the base of the mast. If you have this, you're going to need a diagram. Paul sv Escape Artist
No one replied to you, and I think it's because the question is a little confusing. I'll take a shot at it just to get you going, though I don't have a 33.5--I have a 336. There is no "outhaul" for a jiffy reefing system, just a reefing line which also functions as the outhaul. That's probably what you mean, I just want to be clear. The reefing line on most boats runs like this: 1. Tied to a bail (padeye looking thing) on the boom, directly below the leech cringle. I like a buntline hitch for the knot. 2. Up through the leech cringle, down to a block at or near the end of the boom. ( Most modern boats have the block at the end of the boom and the reefing line is lead inside the boom. Older, or retrofitted jiffy reefing systems have a block on the side of the boom and the line is led forward outside the boom.) 3. Through the block and probably inside the boom forward to an exit block just behind the gooseneck. For a true "jiffy" reefing system, the line is then led down to a block on deck and then back to the cockpit to a winch or some other control. When you reef, you first go forward and hook the luff cringle to the ramshorns at the gooseneck, then you pull on the jiffy reefing line to secure the leech. If you have two reef points there are two reefing lines. As for the topping lift, most booms have a hole for a shackle on top at the aftmost point. A topping lift is generally a halyard line, so it has a small eye sewn in the end through which you place screw shackle, which you then attach to the boom. There is some possibility that you have "single line" reefing, which is a variation of jiffy reefing whereby the single reefing line attached near the end of the boom is also used to pull down the luff. A giveaway for this arrangement is the fact that there are no ramshorns, but probably there are one or more fiddle blocks at the base of the mast. If you have this, you're going to need a diagram. Paul sv Escape Artist
92 335
Geoff, If you'll post your email address, I'll take a digital picture of my 92 335 this weekend that shows the outhaul setup on the reefing lines and the topping lift and send it to you. I could decribe it, but as the old saying goes about the picture and the thousand words... Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Geoff, If you'll post your email address, I'll take a digital picture of my 92 335 this weekend that shows the outhaul setup on the reefing lines and the topping lift and send it to you. I could decribe it, but as the old saying goes about the picture and the thousand words... Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Reefing for Hunter 33.5
Geoff, I also own a 1992 Hunter 33.5. I have two reef points on my main and always sail with 2 reef lines installed. Each reef line has one end tied to the moveable bails (you should have two) which slide in an extruded "track" on the bottom of the boom. Each reef line then is led through a grommet seqn into the leech of the main and then back around a block at the aft end of the boom. (My boom has 4 blocks built into the aft end of the boom-your's should probably be the same). Each reef line is then led through the mast to the forward end and exits through rope clutches. I havee then led each of the two reef lines to turning blocks at the base of the mast and aft (under the sea hood) to rope clutches installed on the cabin top. My rig differs from those delivered on "base" boats from the factory in that I have installed a second set of four sheet stoppers (rope clutches) and a winch on the port aft end of the cabin top. This permits me to lead both reefing lines, the bom vang, main sheet and 3 halyards to the aft end of the cabin top so that they are accessible without leaving the cockpit. Great setup for basd weather-like reefing which I did yesterday. Let me know if you need more information, such as how to install rope clutches on cabin top, hardware specifications, etc. Mike Wallach
Geoff, I also own a 1992 Hunter 33.5. I have two reef points on my main and always sail with 2 reef lines installed. Each reef line has one end tied to the moveable bails (you should have two) which slide in an extruded "track" on the bottom of the boom. Each reef line then is led through a grommet seqn into the leech of the main and then back around a block at the aft end of the boom. (My boom has 4 blocks built into the aft end of the boom-your's should probably be the same). Each reef line is then led through the mast to the forward end and exits through rope clutches. I havee then led each of the two reef lines to turning blocks at the base of the mast and aft (under the sea hood) to rope clutches installed on the cabin top. My rig differs from those delivered on "base" boats from the factory in that I have installed a second set of four sheet stoppers (rope clutches) and a winch on the port aft end of the cabin top. This permits me to lead both reefing lines, the bom vang, main sheet and 3 halyards to the aft end of the cabin top so that they are accessible without leaving the cockpit. Great setup for basd weather-like reefing which I did yesterday. Let me know if you need more information, such as how to install rope clutches on cabin top, hardware specifications, etc. Mike Wallach
Michael
Thanks for the info. I have also had good info. passed along from Gary. I think I will add the second set of clutches on the port side that both of you use. I do have the two movable bails on the underside of my boom, and wondered what they were for. Once you determined the correct position did you put set screws in them? I don't have a spinnaker, and never intend to, but being able to lead the topping lift aft, and the boom vang, is very appealing. Therefore, another clutch set with three levers would work for me. It will mean having to unstep the mast to install the turning blocks, so it will be a winter project. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the info. I have also had good info. passed along from Gary. I think I will add the second set of clutches on the port side that both of you use. I do have the two movable bails on the underside of my boom, and wondered what they were for. Once you determined the correct position did you put set screws in them? I don't have a spinnaker, and never intend to, but being able to lead the topping lift aft, and the boom vang, is very appealing. Therefore, another clutch set with three levers would work for me. It will mean having to unstep the mast to install the turning blocks, so it will be a winter project. Thanks for your help.
line stoppers on port side
Geoff, Glad to hear that I gave you a project to keep you occupied for the winter. No, I did not put set screws in the bails on the aft end of the mast. I positioned them under the respective reef point at the leech end of the mainsail, and they "self align" when the reef line is tightened. As for the rope clutches, I purchased mine from Garhauer. They match those installed by Hunter, and are reasonably priced. You can get them in from 1 to 4 clutch sets, and they can be added to (or reduced in number) after you receive them if your needs change before installation. If your mast collar is like mine, you do not have to remove the mast to add turning blocks. The collar is predrilled with eight or so holes to receive the threaded shaft of a turning block. The mast collar has slots on its underside which will receive the nuts which come with the turning blocks, and prevent the nuts from "turning" due to their shape. Simply unscrew the nut from the threaded shaft, slip the nut into the desired slot and screw the nut onto the shaft by rotating the turning block with the nut held in place by the shape of the slot which it has been received in. The turning blocks are available from Z Spar, which is located in Florida and which supplies masts and booms to Hunter. Let me know if you need a phone no. for them (Ihave it in my office. The rope clutches and turning blocks (you will have to add these under the sea hood to lead the sheets, etc. from the base of the mast to the rope clutches) are fastened to the deck by drilling through the fiberglass deck and through an aluminum plate which Hunter has glassed into the deck for that very purpose. Use an appropriate sized drill and tap for 1/4-20 threaded fasteners, which are then bolted into the aluminum. Be sure to use lots of sealant to minimize the chance of leakage. While you are at it, I would recommend adding a second self-tailing winch "mirror-imaged" to the one on the starboard side to receive the lines that you will lead to the second set of rope clutches. Let me know if you need more information. I'll try to get photos (I don't own a digital camera, but will have a friend take some) and will post in an adendum to this message. Good Luck! Mike Wallach
Geoff, Glad to hear that I gave you a project to keep you occupied for the winter. No, I did not put set screws in the bails on the aft end of the mast. I positioned them under the respective reef point at the leech end of the mainsail, and they "self align" when the reef line is tightened. As for the rope clutches, I purchased mine from Garhauer. They match those installed by Hunter, and are reasonably priced. You can get them in from 1 to 4 clutch sets, and they can be added to (or reduced in number) after you receive them if your needs change before installation. If your mast collar is like mine, you do not have to remove the mast to add turning blocks. The collar is predrilled with eight or so holes to receive the threaded shaft of a turning block. The mast collar has slots on its underside which will receive the nuts which come with the turning blocks, and prevent the nuts from "turning" due to their shape. Simply unscrew the nut from the threaded shaft, slip the nut into the desired slot and screw the nut onto the shaft by rotating the turning block with the nut held in place by the shape of the slot which it has been received in. The turning blocks are available from Z Spar, which is located in Florida and which supplies masts and booms to Hunter. Let me know if you need a phone no. for them (Ihave it in my office. The rope clutches and turning blocks (you will have to add these under the sea hood to lead the sheets, etc. from the base of the mast to the rope clutches) are fastened to the deck by drilling through the fiberglass deck and through an aluminum plate which Hunter has glassed into the deck for that very purpose. Use an appropriate sized drill and tap for 1/4-20 threaded fasteners, which are then bolted into the aluminum. Be sure to use lots of sealant to minimize the chance of leakage. While you are at it, I would recommend adding a second self-tailing winch "mirror-imaged" to the one on the starboard side to receive the lines that you will lead to the second set of rope clutches. Let me know if you need more information. I'll try to get photos (I don't own a digital camera, but will have a friend take some) and will post in an adendum to this message. Good Luck! Mike Wallach
REMOVING SEA HOOD ON 33.5
Michael, I want to know the how to remove the sea hood and if the aluminum plate is easy to spot. I need to add turning blocks for the topping lift and reefing lines.
Michael, I want to know the how to remove the sea hood and if the aluminum plate is easy to spot. I need to add turning blocks for the topping lift and reefing lines.
- Status