Jibe Talkin Proper jijbing techniques for a 30 footer
- Thread starter Royal Flush
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Broadly speaking you tack when going to the weather and Jibe while running off. If you don't have enough wind(boat speed) to tack you can wear ship, which is a maneuver when you fall off the wind and jibe around on the new tack.
Tacking is turning the bow through the eye of the wind; jibing is turning the stern through the eye of the wind. I use a number of different methods to jibe depending on whether I'm alone or have experienced crew, and how hard the wind is blowing. In moderate conditions, I get ready jibe when alone by slowly turning the boat's stern toward the wind and bringing it into a wing-on-wing position with the headsail now on the side of the new course (i.e., dead downwind). As I continue the turn, I grab the mainsheet tackle and begin to walk the main onto the other side of the wind. Once on the new course, I reset the sails accordingling. I do it the same with crew aboard to help, only they follow my lead as I turn the boat's stern through the wind (they've already brought the headsail onto the other side of the boat) by using the mainsheet to bring the main to a centered position so that they let it out in a controlled manner once the boat gets onto the other side of the wind. I tend not to jibe at all in winds over 20 kts preferring to tack through 270 deg to get the boat onto the new course.
jibing the easyway
first sheet your mainsail in flat dosent matter where the wind is then fall off until your stern crosses the breeze now you can let your main out and trim it up depending on your course
Oh I almost forgot about the jib. Dont just let it go so it can start flapping around and make a lot of noise wrap itself up around the head stay or worse get caught on something and rip. leave it sheeted where it was until it breaks on the other tack After the jib breaks and fills on the other tack. put your sheet around the winch on your new tack then let the other side go. finally adjust the jib on the new tack. You can do both sails simultaniously but always sheet the main in first. Also when you go about you can do the same thing with the jib dont let the jib sheet loose on the old tack until the jib fills on the new tack
first sheet your mainsail in flat dosent matter where the wind is then fall off until your stern crosses the breeze now you can let your main out and trim it up depending on your course
Oh I almost forgot about the jib. Dont just let it go so it can start flapping around and make a lot of noise wrap itself up around the head stay or worse get caught on something and rip. leave it sheeted where it was until it breaks on the other tack After the jib breaks and fills on the other tack. put your sheet around the winch on your new tack then let the other side go. finally adjust the jib on the new tack. You can do both sails simultaniously but always sheet the main in first. Also when you go about you can do the same thing with the jib dont let the jib sheet loose on the old tack until the jib fills on the new tack
Mainsheet
One trick that many use is to tie a stopper knot in the mainsheet so it does not allow the boom to go beyond the spreader. Limiting the angle can help in reducing potetial damage to the sail, goosneck etc.. A jibe is not a mistake if done under control and can be very useful when going down wind with Hunters having the swept back spreaders.
One trick that many use is to tie a stopper knot in the mainsheet so it does not allow the boom to go beyond the spreader. Limiting the angle can help in reducing potetial damage to the sail, goosneck etc.. A jibe is not a mistake if done under control and can be very useful when going down wind with Hunters having the swept back spreaders.
What works well for me is to fall off until the jib collapses. It's then easy to pull it across and let it pop out so the boat is wing and wing. This stabilizes the boat and eases the steering which is important to me when I'm single handing. I then pull the main all the way in, steer through the jibe and let the main out as soon as the wind flops the leech over.
I recommend a good sailing instructional like "The Annapolis Book or Seamanship" by John Rousmaniere.
Two main goals when jibing are to control the boom when it comes across and don't let the headsail fly out and wrap around the forestay. On lighter wind days you can simply grab a handfull of mainsheet tackle and pull the boom across by hand. Windier condtions will require a little more planning. You must control the boom's travel across to the other side with the sheet, but first center the traveller(so it doesn't slam across) before you start working the mainsheet. Remember to get the boom across as soon as possible so you can control its release to the new position. Let the wind bring the headsail across, just like you do when tacking. Unlike tacking, however, don't fully release the jibsheet. Rather let if out just far enough to allow the sail to pass through the foretriangle and be reset on the other side without wrapping the headstay.
Remember, control the boom and restrict the jibsheet's release, and it'll be a piece of cake.
Two main goals when jibing are to control the boom when it comes across and don't let the headsail fly out and wrap around the forestay. On lighter wind days you can simply grab a handfull of mainsheet tackle and pull the boom across by hand. Windier condtions will require a little more planning. You must control the boom's travel across to the other side with the sheet, but first center the traveller(so it doesn't slam across) before you start working the mainsheet. Remember to get the boom across as soon as possible so you can control its release to the new position. Let the wind bring the headsail across, just like you do when tacking. Unlike tacking, however, don't fully release the jibsheet. Rather let if out just far enough to allow the sail to pass through the foretriangle and be reset on the other side without wrapping the headstay.
Remember, control the boom and restrict the jibsheet's release, and it'll be a piece of cake.
Uh......... what is it about "how do I jibe my boat?" that you don't understand?
Good Replies Everyone....I'm going to practice some Jibing this weekend.
We ran into some 20 knot winds this weekend durring the last hour of our sail with a 150 genoa and a full main. Our 30 foot boat took off like a rocket and it was quite an exillarating experience. We choose not to jibe without firsthand knowledge.
-M
We ran into some 20 knot winds this weekend durring the last hour of our sail with a 150 genoa and a full main. Our 30 foot boat took off like a rocket and it was quite an exillarating experience. We choose not to jibe without firsthand knowledge.
-M
When there is a lot of wind I have avoided jibeing. I also rig a preventer and when jibeing in high winds use it to let the mainsail down. Unintentional jibes are not too frequent on a lake but in the sea with large waves the waves can set the stern over enough to jibe. I always rig a preventer at sea. My preventer is just a couple of pulleys like a boom vang that I attach on the leeward side. Instead of the boom swinging wildly I tighten it up so that between the mainsheet and the preventer the boom is pretty well fixed in position. The preventer also flattens the sail.
He's probably doing a chicken gybe and tacking through 270˚ or so instead of actually gybing the boat. While this is a great idea in heavy winds... doing it as a normal matter of course is a real PITA..
My buddy was spooked and really wanted to avoid Jibing under 20 knot winds.
I was wondering, how to control the jibe and if it was safe under controlled conditions or whether to strongly avoid it until aftyer I'm well seasoned.
That's all. M
I was wondering, how to control the jibe and if it was safe under controlled conditions or whether to strongly avoid it until aftyer I'm well seasoned.
That's all. M
Gybing
Learn what you have to do from here and books and watching or going on someone else's boat and just learn to do it on your boat. Start in light winds and build up your skills.
You CAN do it.
Heck, we all did...
No kidding, but when will that be? Unless you learn this , you'll never get there.
Learn what you have to do from here and books and watching or going on someone else's boat and just learn to do it on your boat. Start in light winds and build up your skills.You CAN do it.
Heck, we all did...
Actually gybing can be quite controlled if you do it right and have the proper equipment. In winds over about 15 make sure you do the following. Center traveler, release vang. Ease main out and steer down to a broad reach. Ease genoa, it will start to collapse when it goes behind eased main. Pull genoa around. Turn down to dead downwind and start hauling main in as fast as possible. Slowly steer boat to a by the lee position. Release main sheet before it starts to go over. When main is over steer up to a reach, sheet, and sheet jib accordingly.
Big no-no's. Don't get in way of boom or main tackle. Don't let traveler slam over. Don't sheet the main in before you fall off or you will round up. Don't grab main sheet to help it, and make sure vang is off. With a little practice, it becomes easier.
Big no-no's. Don't get in way of boom or main tackle. Don't let traveler slam over. Don't sheet the main in before you fall off or you will round up. Don't grab main sheet to help it, and make sure vang is off. With a little practice, it becomes easier.
Hi Mac,
There are a lot of great comments in here, and I'd like to chime in with a few of my own. Every sailor should learn how to gybe, and well. It's one of the fundamentals of competently operating a sailboat. Why? Well, there are just certain times where tacking doesn't make sense. No sea room, risk of collision with another vessel, etc.
There are some dangers to gybing 'wrong' - this is typically when most serious injuries and equipment damage occurs on a sailboat. This problem usually involves not controlling the mainsheet and traveller, and allowing the mainsail to gybe with too much available slack. With a fair bit of wind and too much slack in the mainsheet or traveller, a 30 footer will have enough power in the mainsail as it crosses for the boom to crack a person's skull and send them overboard, unconcious, perhaps with a serious spinal injury just for good measure. Thus the name, 'boom'. So skip that part.
The good news is that done right, gybing is a pretty smooth and easy process. It's best to practice in light and then moderate wind to get the timing right, and then work your way up into higher winds slowly as you gain confidence and smoothness.
Another shortcut to please avoid, is the advice above, 'On lighter wind days you can simply grab a handfull of mainsheet tackle and pull the boom across by hand.' Please, for your sake, don't get into this habit. This may be ok when racing a small dinghy with a hankerchief for a sail, in light air, but on a 30 foot keelboat, it's best not to move the main by through the eye of the wind by hand as a matter of policy. If your arm is up above your shoulder and you get hit by a puff while you're doing this, you can very easily blow out your shoulder's rotator cuff, which can be a serious, lifelong injury.
Not a great habit to get into tempting fate on this one, either.
Start off by practicing 'the gentle gybe'. This breaks the maneouver into segments, and helps you keep everything under control, which is the key.
After advising the crew to prepare to gybe, you steer the boat gradually down to a run.
The crew is ready to sheet in the main, and to release the leeward jib sheet.
The crew takes up slack on the windward jib sheet and puts a few turns in the winch to prepare it for use.
The crew advises you they are ready. You are now on a run, and after receiving the command to gybe the foresail, the crew releases the forsail on the leeward side, and gybes the foresail (hardening the windward jib sheet) so that you are now running wing on wing.
The helm is maintaining a steady course relative to the wind.
Then you give the command 'Ready to Gybe the Mainsail'
Once the crew is ready, the mainsheet trimmer responds that they are ready.
The skipper gives the command to 'harden the main.'
It is important not to steer the stern of the boat through the eye of the wind until the main is centered.
At this point the mainsheet is hardened as the boat's stern is gently brought through the wind in a very minor course alteration. The skipper calls 'gybe ho' as the mainsail - gently - crosses the eye of the wind. At this point the mainsheet is quickly slackened - under control - to avoid the boat rounding up to weather if it is windy.
Once you have mastered a 'gentle gybe' and can consistently do it under control, then move onto gybing smoothly from a reach to a reach, rather from a run to a run. At this point, you would delay gybing the foresail until after the moment after the main has crossed the eye of the wind.
In really strong winds, or with too much sail up for the conditions, gybing safely may become difficult as the boat tends to want to sail to weather as the mainsheet is hardened, but if this is the case, it's long overdue time to put another reef in the main.
The main take-away here should be that the point of gybing safely is to stay clear of the boom, make sure your sheets are clear to go to work, and make sure that there is no extra play in the traveller or mainsheet - avoid uncontrolled force during the gybe. Lots of practice and working on smooth timing will allow you to gybe more quickly, in stronger winds.
There are a lot of great comments in here, and I'd like to chime in with a few of my own. Every sailor should learn how to gybe, and well. It's one of the fundamentals of competently operating a sailboat. Why? Well, there are just certain times where tacking doesn't make sense. No sea room, risk of collision with another vessel, etc.
There are some dangers to gybing 'wrong' - this is typically when most serious injuries and equipment damage occurs on a sailboat. This problem usually involves not controlling the mainsheet and traveller, and allowing the mainsail to gybe with too much available slack. With a fair bit of wind and too much slack in the mainsheet or traveller, a 30 footer will have enough power in the mainsail as it crosses for the boom to crack a person's skull and send them overboard, unconcious, perhaps with a serious spinal injury just for good measure. Thus the name, 'boom'. So skip that part.
The good news is that done right, gybing is a pretty smooth and easy process. It's best to practice in light and then moderate wind to get the timing right, and then work your way up into higher winds slowly as you gain confidence and smoothness.
Another shortcut to please avoid, is the advice above, 'On lighter wind days you can simply grab a handfull of mainsheet tackle and pull the boom across by hand.' Please, for your sake, don't get into this habit. This may be ok when racing a small dinghy with a hankerchief for a sail, in light air, but on a 30 foot keelboat, it's best not to move the main by through the eye of the wind by hand as a matter of policy. If your arm is up above your shoulder and you get hit by a puff while you're doing this, you can very easily blow out your shoulder's rotator cuff, which can be a serious, lifelong injury.
Not a great habit to get into tempting fate on this one, either.
Start off by practicing 'the gentle gybe'. This breaks the maneouver into segments, and helps you keep everything under control, which is the key.
After advising the crew to prepare to gybe, you steer the boat gradually down to a run.
The crew is ready to sheet in the main, and to release the leeward jib sheet.
The crew takes up slack on the windward jib sheet and puts a few turns in the winch to prepare it for use.
The crew advises you they are ready. You are now on a run, and after receiving the command to gybe the foresail, the crew releases the forsail on the leeward side, and gybes the foresail (hardening the windward jib sheet) so that you are now running wing on wing.
The helm is maintaining a steady course relative to the wind.
Then you give the command 'Ready to Gybe the Mainsail'
Once the crew is ready, the mainsheet trimmer responds that they are ready.
The skipper gives the command to 'harden the main.'
It is important not to steer the stern of the boat through the eye of the wind until the main is centered.
At this point the mainsheet is hardened as the boat's stern is gently brought through the wind in a very minor course alteration. The skipper calls 'gybe ho' as the mainsail - gently - crosses the eye of the wind. At this point the mainsheet is quickly slackened - under control - to avoid the boat rounding up to weather if it is windy.
Once you have mastered a 'gentle gybe' and can consistently do it under control, then move onto gybing smoothly from a reach to a reach, rather from a run to a run. At this point, you would delay gybing the foresail until after the moment after the main has crossed the eye of the wind.
In really strong winds, or with too much sail up for the conditions, gybing safely may become difficult as the boat tends to want to sail to weather as the mainsheet is hardened, but if this is the case, it's long overdue time to put another reef in the main.
The main take-away here should be that the point of gybing safely is to stay clear of the boom, make sure your sheets are clear to go to work, and make sure that there is no extra play in the traveller or mainsheet - avoid uncontrolled force during the gybe. Lots of practice and working on smooth timing will allow you to gybe more quickly, in stronger winds.
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