We just bought a '77 shoal draft 27, and are quite happy with it. We are trying to figure out the best arrangement for sheeting the 110 jib. Currently, the sheet comes inside the capstay, and outside the 2 lower stays to a fairlead block on the aluminum rail at the edge of the deck. Will the boat point better with the fairlead farther inboard? If so, how can we do this? Any other suggestions on moving better to windward? Heeling less than 15 degrees, we are still unable to make good better than 65 degrees off the wind (per our GPS.) What kind of performance should we expect to windward?
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Well this will be controversial but...
I have an 82' 27 and it had a self-tacking club jib rigged when I bought it. The boat sailed well to windward when I tested it. The first few times I sailed the boat after buying it I left the self-tacking jib setup and windward sailing was fine. Soon after I took the self-tacker off and set up a regular 110% jib, I was so confident I'd want a regular setup I put the self-tacker in storage! I soon changed my mind, the boat was very poor to windward with the 110% and seemed slower all around. I have since put the self-tacker back on an love it, I can sheet it very close and even with the reduced canvas I feel it is faster. A self-tacking club jib is not for everyone but the lack of adjustable jib sheeting on an early 27 make it worth considering.
I have an 82' 27 and it had a self-tacking club jib rigged when I bought it. The boat sailed well to windward when I tested it. The first few times I sailed the boat after buying it I left the self-tacking jib setup and windward sailing was fine. Soon after I took the self-tacker off and set up a regular 110% jib, I was so confident I'd want a regular setup I put the self-tacker in storage! I soon changed my mind, the boat was very poor to windward with the 110% and seemed slower all around. I have since put the self-tacker back on an love it, I can sheet it very close and even with the reduced canvas I feel it is faster. A self-tacking club jib is not for everyone but the lack of adjustable jib sheeting on an early 27 make it worth considering.
Wind in the bay.
Michael: I think that we have the benefit or penalty of having more wind than we usually need in the SF Bay area. This could play a signicant difference between here and there. We also have a self tender on our H'31 and it is just fine most of the time. When we have those calm days 8-10 I wish I had a 130 roller too.
Michael: I think that we have the benefit or penalty of having more wind than we usually need in the SF Bay area. This could play a signicant difference between here and there. We also have a self tender on our H'31 and it is just fine most of the time. When we have those calm days 8-10 I wish I had a 130 roller too.
Windward HO
The 27 Hunter is a moderatly wide boat, and the sheeting block is at it's widest point on the toe rail, Now I don't know whats a capstay, unless you are refering to you upper shrouds??, but in any case you CAN'T go inside the upper, and outside the aft lower?? besides being very dificult to tack, the sail would chafe and shread on the shrouds, If you want to come more into the wind, you have to change to a cutter rig, flying a Yankee, sheeted totally inboard with the block set aft of the winches, but this means inner forestay, inermed shrouds, cabintop tracks and cars for the staysail, etc;all to aquire an additional 10 degrees, is it worth it?? I thought so.
The 27 Hunter is a moderatly wide boat, and the sheeting block is at it's widest point on the toe rail, Now I don't know whats a capstay, unless you are refering to you upper shrouds??, but in any case you CAN'T go inside the upper, and outside the aft lower?? besides being very dificult to tack, the sail would chafe and shread on the shrouds, If you want to come more into the wind, you have to change to a cutter rig, flying a Yankee, sheeted totally inboard with the block set aft of the winches, but this means inner forestay, inermed shrouds, cabintop tracks and cars for the staysail, etc;all to aquire an additional 10 degrees, is it worth it?? I thought so.
Another answer
I have a 155 jib on my h27 1979 style. Jib sheet leads to about one foot forward of winchs. Trim to just about touching rear stay. Should be about as close as boat will point keeping in mind not to exceed 15 degrees heel. In a chop keep it powered up so it dosn't stall and go sideways. Boy is it great on the reaches, keep up with everyone as long as the bottom is clean.
I have a 155 jib on my h27 1979 style. Jib sheet leads to about one foot forward of winchs. Trim to just about touching rear stay. Should be about as close as boat will point keeping in mind not to exceed 15 degrees heel. In a chop keep it powered up so it dosn't stall and go sideways. Boy is it great on the reaches, keep up with everyone as long as the bottom is clean.
Induce Heel
Heeling less than 15 deg. sends me a thought.I have found that in light airs shifting myself and/or others to the lee side adds a little speed, which increases apparent wind, which helps to point higher.An easy thing to check out !
Heeling less than 15 deg. sends me a thought.I have found that in light airs shifting myself and/or others to the lee side adds a little speed, which increases apparent wind, which helps to point higher.An easy thing to check out !
Michael: Re. club-footed jib
Got specs, drawings, and/or pictures of the setup? I'b be interested in looking into it... If so, thanks!
Got specs, drawings, and/or pictures of the setup? I'b be interested in looking into it... If so, thanks!
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