jib sheet routing - roller furler-O'Day 25
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I found that it is important to mount the drum control line cleat somewhere aft of the Gennie winch on whatever side that you choose to have it. I screwed up and mounted mine on the combing just forward of the winch and after coming about on a Port tack on an extremely windy day, the sheet gets caught around the cleat sometimes as I am taking a wrap around the Starboard winch which is caused by the flapping of the sail. If I'd have mounted the cleat further back from the winch, this wouldn't happen but I may not have had enough line to mount it further back because of the required number of wraps that you're required to keep on the drum when the sail is out.
As far as the sheets go, I had mounted my tracks, cars, and winches on the combings years ago when I bought my boat new, and the location that I chose seems to work well with my CDI FF-2 Roller Furler. You probably have the pad eye single sheaves on your 25 which is kind of limiting to reefing a Gennie.
I am kind of new to learning all the terminology, but I believe I have a single block pulley on single sheave mounted to a 1" track that is about 40" long and starts just aft of my gennie winch on each side. I am finding that it is a simple system, kind of balky, but it is very difficult to adjust while under load, especially when flying the full 150 genoa. I have attached a picture of the boat. One of the questions I have is, does anyone out there use another system that they have had success with? Picture with current set up will be attached to next post. The picture was taken before installation of the furler and other restoration activities, but the set up remains basically the same.
Rich is right. Just head her up into the wind a little bit or slack off on the sheet and make your adjustment. Then adjust the sheave on the other combing for the same setting. A good rule of thumb is to draw an imaginary line from the center of the luff of the Genoa to the tack of the sail and down to where the sheave should be positioned on that same straight angle. You can pretty much eye ball it.
Revir,
I feel your pain (I always hear that said in the former president's polished southern drawl and see his practiced empathetic expression, but i diverge). My 26, which is set up much like yours, fouls often.
1. When i tack, the leach of the jib sail hangs on the shrouds, I have the jib sheets attached to the leach of the sail with snap shackles. I need to remove that and simply tie on the sheets, and/or put some sort of roller or pvc pipe on my shrouds that will let the sail glide across. Does anyone else have that problem? How did you solve it?
2. and, often, the jib sheet gets caught on the eye ring i have attached to my mast for the purpose of attaching the genoa pole/strut.. I use it to sail downwind alot. I guess i need to remove it, or make some sort of cover that allows the line to come across without catching on it.
3. The jib travelers that are mounted on my boat seem very far back, aft of my jib winches, and seem to be only suitable for the largest jib sail, the 150. And if i use a smaller jib, the jib sheet has to run straight to my winch. I have no spring block forward of my winch (yet).
4. Therefore, i have found that, for my boat, and maybe for yours, the larger jib, the 150 i guess it is, seems to sail best.
I am finding that i have a lot to learn about rigging, and can't seem to figure it out on my own. I sure wish i could make it to the Oday rendezvous this next month. That would be a great learning experience!!!!
Does anyone have a traveler mounted on the deck fore-ard of the jib winches?
Keith
I feel your pain (I always hear that said in the former president's polished southern drawl and see his practiced empathetic expression, but i diverge). My 26, which is set up much like yours, fouls often.
1. When i tack, the leach of the jib sail hangs on the shrouds, I have the jib sheets attached to the leach of the sail with snap shackles. I need to remove that and simply tie on the sheets, and/or put some sort of roller or pvc pipe on my shrouds that will let the sail glide across. Does anyone else have that problem? How did you solve it?
2. and, often, the jib sheet gets caught on the eye ring i have attached to my mast for the purpose of attaching the genoa pole/strut.. I use it to sail downwind alot. I guess i need to remove it, or make some sort of cover that allows the line to come across without catching on it.
3. The jib travelers that are mounted on my boat seem very far back, aft of my jib winches, and seem to be only suitable for the largest jib sail, the 150. And if i use a smaller jib, the jib sheet has to run straight to my winch. I have no spring block forward of my winch (yet).
4. Therefore, i have found that, for my boat, and maybe for yours, the larger jib, the 150 i guess it is, seems to sail best.
I am finding that i have a lot to learn about rigging, and can't seem to figure it out on my own. I sure wish i could make it to the Oday rendezvous this next month. That would be a great learning experience!!!!
Does anyone have a traveler mounted on the deck fore-ard of the jib winches?
Keith
Keith,
I'd tie the sheets to the Gennie with Buntline hitches. For chafe protection, you could try inserting 1/2" PVC and caps with holes in the center. I need to try this one myself. You would need to thread the caps on the stays, but maybe the PVC can be cut down the center to make it easy to put on and take off at the end of the season. They could be held in place with a little tape. When I brought my Gennie to Thurston Sails to be converted to fit the roller furler, they sewed a special pocket for my leech line that opens and closes over the line and small clam cleat. The pocket had come un-sewn and was getting caught in my stays. So I ordered a sail repair kit from an outfit in MS and fixed it last week. So I'm going to need to add chafe protection to my stays also. I think that you can purchase these at Worst Marine for an arm and a leg.
Joe
Thanks Joe,
I went to lowes yesterday and bought some 3/4 " pvc pipe with caps, i am going to put about three to five feet of that on the outboard shrouds and I hope that this allows the sheet to slide across without getting caught. The 1/2" would slide over the shroud turnbukles, unless you made those nifty velcro tape turnbuckle locks. Then you need the 3/4 ".
I like to be able to shackle my sheets off and on because i leave my sheets on the boat, but remove the jib. When i remove the jib i just hook the snap shackle to a ring on my pulpit, and leave the line running aft to the cockpit on the boat.
Keith
We sail an 1978 O'day 25, and last season was our first with her, and an old 160 genoa that got caught about 75% of the time on the spreader boot while tacking.
This season we installed a new CDI FF4 and North 135% Genoa, and I also bought a little pack of Harken jib rollers from West Marine for around $20, I think. Best money I ever spent- they snap over the outer side stay and sit just above the spreader. The new sail never gets caught anymore up there on the spreader. Before if it got caught the only way to free it was to tack back, or keep going around until the sail was blown off the spreader. This year we are having much greater success. I would highly recommend it.
Wes
Are you releasing the sheet early enough when you tack? And get the sheet off the winch faster and let it go. The sail shouldn't be sliding across the shrouds and the mast. The sails won't last long doing that.
You've have to get a block mounted for your smaller jib (100?). It's useless without it. The problem is finding the right place to mount it. Is it the original stock sail? I could take some measurements from mine.
Up here too the 155 is the sail used most. It's one of the reasons I didn't go with roller furling. Plus the money I saved not buying the roller gear me get an asymmetrical spinnaker.
Rich
Rich wrote " Are you releasing the sheet early enough when you tack? And get the sheet off the winch faster and let it go. The sail shouldn't be sliding across the shrouds and the mast. The sails won't last long doing that."
I will look at that. I have a difficult time getting the sheet loose quick enough and getting it to feed smoothly so that i can winch in the leeward, after a tack
I usually wait till the mainsail and jib begin to luff during the tack. Do i loose the sheet earlier?
thanks
keith
I will look at that. I have a difficult time getting the sheet loose quick enough and getting it to feed smoothly so that i can winch in the leeward, after a tack
I usually wait till the mainsail and jib begin to luff during the tack. Do i loose the sheet earlier?
thanks
keith
Keith,
I have some white plastic tube type turnbuckle covers on all my stays and that I've had for years now. I don't know what they cost today, but they weren't too expensive when I bought them. Let me know how you make out with those Keith. When Wayne made his, he stuck a stainless steel washer somewhere in the center of the pipe so that the pipe would roll easy. He has it set up so that the pipe is always on the stays, even through the winter. I take my stays off my mast along with my spreaders and store them down my cellar for the winter. So I'd rather cut these pipes down the center and take them off at the end of the season. The caps can stay on the stays.
Joe
No, you are releasing at the right time. Maybe watch when you're bringing the boat around and don't let the wind fill the headsail until the sheet is free. Just takes a little practice. Make sure the sheet is free to run. Only coil your lines in a figure 8. Never in a round O coil. I'm anal about this on my boat. Flake the sheet on the seat if you want.
I've had my boat out a few times now. I'm finding it a very easy sailing boat. Tracks nice.
Rich
I've had my boat out a few times now. I'm finding it a very easy sailing boat. Tracks nice.
Rich
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