I want to replace the jib halyard. Any recommendations as to diameter and quality of line?Approxiately what should be the price?
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Running rigging line
Mike, You'd want to get a braided line specifically for running rigging which is a low stretch Polyester like "New England Ropes StA-Set X". They sell it by the foot and it runs from $0.45 up, depending on the diameter. Just measure the diameter and length of your old halyard and do some price comparisons. Unless you buy a halyard that's all made up with the shackle on it, figure an extra 12" for the shackle eye splice. I do all my own eye splices on three strand rope, which is very simple for me to do, as I've been doing them for years. Three strand rope requires hardly anything more than black electric tape, to keep the strands together, a knife or heavy duty scissors, and a lit candle to seal the finished strands. The braid is a little more complicated and requires some good directions, a fid for the diameter of the rope, and a fid pushing tool, along with the tape and knife. I usually install a Palm and Needle whipping just below the braided eye splice and I know for certain that the splice will never come apart. If you can get an unspliced halyard real cheap, it may be worth your while to pay someone in the store to splice on the shackle for you. Check with Rudy Nickerson at D&R Marine and find out what he gets for the Jib Halyard. Rudy has all the O'Day gear and parts, and I know for a fact that he also does line splicing at his store. Joe
Mike, You'd want to get a braided line specifically for running rigging which is a low stretch Polyester like "New England Ropes StA-Set X". They sell it by the foot and it runs from $0.45 up, depending on the diameter. Just measure the diameter and length of your old halyard and do some price comparisons. Unless you buy a halyard that's all made up with the shackle on it, figure an extra 12" for the shackle eye splice. I do all my own eye splices on three strand rope, which is very simple for me to do, as I've been doing them for years. Three strand rope requires hardly anything more than black electric tape, to keep the strands together, a knife or heavy duty scissors, and a lit candle to seal the finished strands. The braid is a little more complicated and requires some good directions, a fid for the diameter of the rope, and a fid pushing tool, along with the tape and knife. I usually install a Palm and Needle whipping just below the braided eye splice and I know for certain that the splice will never come apart. If you can get an unspliced halyard real cheap, it may be worth your while to pay someone in the store to splice on the shackle for you. Check with Rudy Nickerson at D&R Marine and find out what he gets for the Jib Halyard. Rudy has all the O'Day gear and parts, and I know for a fact that he also does line splicing at his store. Joe
halyard thoughts
Mike, just a few thoughts. 1. make sure that your sheaves at the mast top are set up for line and not wire. The sheaves should not have a "v" shape but more of a "U" shape. 2. fpr an O'Day 23 no need to go thicker than 5/16 in. 3. high tech halyards will allow you to tension the jib and flatten it out when it is windy without it stretching but is not necessary if you do not want to spend the $$. if all you do is daysail, then sta set x would be a good middle of the road , not too expensive choice. I replaced my running rigging this spring and went with samson warpspeed for the jib halyards ( almost NO stretch made with a spectra core) and Samson's xls extra for the main halyard. I got both halyards from ebay and did my own splices. I saved almost 1/2 of what it would have cost from a rigger
Mike, just a few thoughts. 1. make sure that your sheaves at the mast top are set up for line and not wire. The sheaves should not have a "v" shape but more of a "U" shape. 2. fpr an O'Day 23 no need to go thicker than 5/16 in. 3. high tech halyards will allow you to tension the jib and flatten it out when it is windy without it stretching but is not necessary if you do not want to spend the $$. if all you do is daysail, then sta set x would be a good middle of the road , not too expensive choice. I replaced my running rigging this spring and went with samson warpspeed for the jib halyards ( almost NO stretch made with a spectra core) and Samson's xls extra for the main halyard. I got both halyards from ebay and did my own splices. I saved almost 1/2 of what it would have cost from a rigger
Stick with OEM
I agree with the comment to be sure you know your boats rigging before you substitute lines. My Oday 23 halyards are wire/braided rope combo, with the wire doing all the work over the mast sheaves and the rope run to the cockpit where it is easy on the winch/hands. I make my own double braid splices for other working lines too; once you get the tools, its just craftsmanship. But I go with Original Equipment equivalents for standing and key running rigging, usually buying from Rudy at D&R. He has them made up just right. Check his website for parts and prices for your boat. He knows the different generations of 23's. I have always found his prices competitive, and the sizes are what is engineered for your boat...unless you are the advanced sailer looking to research changes on your own.
I agree with the comment to be sure you know your boats rigging before you substitute lines. My Oday 23 halyards are wire/braided rope combo, with the wire doing all the work over the mast sheaves and the rope run to the cockpit where it is easy on the winch/hands. I make my own double braid splices for other working lines too; once you get the tools, its just craftsmanship. But I go with Original Equipment equivalents for standing and key running rigging, usually buying from Rudy at D&R. He has them made up just right. Check his website for parts and prices for your boat. He knows the different generations of 23's. I have always found his prices competitive, and the sizes are what is engineered for your boat...unless you are the advanced sailer looking to research changes on your own.
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