Jib Halyard Swivel problem?

[Two Sails]

Recently my jib fuller has been acting up, making it extremely difficult to furl the jib - like it is binding. I’ve found the only way it will furl effectively is to release the clutch on the jib halyard, allowing the jib to lower a couple inches - I can then typically furl it in. After a sail today, with the jib furled, I flew my drone up to the jib halyard swivel for a closer inspection. This seems to be a genoa reefing furler, which slides on the aluminum foil encasing the forestay. From the picture, it looks as though it is not swiveling properly allowing the halyard to become wrapped around the forestry. I’m thinking the best course of action is to take down the jib, clean and inspect the swivel. Anyone have other recommendations? I suppose it is a good opportunity to replace the halyard too - it is 10+ years old.

 

[JoeWhite]

The head swivel must not be more than 6" below the top of the headstay attachment. In your photo it appears that that distance is about 24". You can fix this problem by adding a pendant to the tack of the jib and rais the jib about 18". You can create your own pendant extension from a line.
Haro.

 

[Calif. Ted]

If you put a pennant on the foot of the sail so you can move the sail further up it will increase the angle and possibly eliminate the halyard wrap. Sometimes a halyard restrainer of some type will be necessary, yours may be one.

 

[Two Sails]

Interesting - this Hunter is completely stock with original sails and rigging. I assumed the upper limit of the swivel is as shown in the picture, but I can certainly see how raising it should resolve the problem. I really like the idea of the pennant and it would be nice to raise the jib a foot or so. Thank you both for the input.

 

[jssailem]

Two Sails look at the mast to the right of yours in your image. They have the sail in the correct position. The upper swivel is at the top of the furler.
Looks like the sail was made a little short. You can add line to the bottom but not the top. In your case the halyard wrapped is adding friction to the furler. That makes it difficult to furl your sail.

Bring the sail down. Wash out the upper bearings with a dab of dish soap and water. Flush well. Attach the sail to the upper swivel. Raise the swivel and sail to the top. Add line to the bottom of the sail to attach the tack to the bottom swivel. While your there and have the soap and water available on the bow, flush the dirt and grime from drum bearings.

Test your handy work.

 

[dmax]

As everyone has said, the swivel needs to be higher. Another thing you can do to prevent halyard wrap is to include a sheave or padeye to increase the angle to the swivel like in this picture - I have a padeye and have had no wrap problems:

 

[jssailem]

Dmax. the Mast Head sheave is a good idea of for a Mast head rig.
In "Two Sails" situation he has a fractional rig with the sheave exit block for the furler swivel nicely placed like the mast head sheave block.

He just needs to raise the sail to move the furler swivel up to the height of the mast sheave. As a guide while on deck he can mark the halyard to remind him when the swivel has reached the proper height.

@Two Sails, your halyard does not look that bad. You can replace it if you like, but the upper section looks to be in serviceable shape. The lower part of the halyard maybe in need of replacement. Winter is a great time for this task. Buy your line, and then attach the old to the end of the new with a sewn butt join. Then haul up the new and down the old. Some folk use tape. I find that tape can cause issues. A sewn butt join is just better, in my experience.

Replace the halyard with like diameter or slightly smaller so that is smoothly goes through the mast sheaves, when it is time. Also study the knot being used. You will want to use the same "halyard hitch" to secure the shackle. halyard-hitch-knot

 

[sailcapt340]

Two Sails,
Do you or when was the last time you greased the swivel? There is an upper and lower grease “notch” on the swivel. Using a good waterproof grease, you just squeeze in enough to see it ooze out a little. Spin it a few times and you should be good for the season.
Not being able to raise it fully leads me to think its binding up there and a little grease would help on the inside of the swivel and the roller bearings in there.
From enlarging your photo it looks dry in there. Mine has a small amount of “blue” grease around it. Yours doesn’t look like mine.
Also the same applies to the furler on the deck. There are noticeable “notches”, top and bottom, that you squeeze the grease in.
You received all great advice. Lower it, wash it out and grease.
Hope this can help you.

 

[sailcapt340]

Looking further….I believe these are the notches you are looking for.

 

[jssailem]

Sailboat equipment has different maintenance requirements based on materials. The use of grease in furlers is not a universal recommendation. Open furlers like the Harken units with their use of Delrin bearings recommends flushing with water (see below). Profurler systems have closed systems so you can not get into them.

• Harken equipment is designed for minimal maintenance, but some maintenance is required to give the best service and to comply with the Harken limited warranty.
• In general, the most important aspect of maintenance is to keep your equipment clean by frequently flushing with freshwater.
• In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts may show discoloration around holes, rivets and screws. This is not serious and may be removed with a fine abrasive.
• With the exception of winches, do not use grease unless specifically recommended in the instruction sheets.
• Many Harken products are provided with specific instruction sheets that detail maintenance procedures. Instruction sheets are available at no charge by contacting Harken or a Harken distributor.
• Furling System: Keep furling units clean by flushing frequently with fresh water.
• Periodically clean the lower unit and the halyard swivel with detergent and fresh water to remove deposits of salt and dirt. Lubrication is not required.

Recommendation: Use water perhaps a little soap to help dislodge salt or dirt as the least invasive technique. Introducing grease to the bearings (if open as in the image) leads to grease spatter on the sail. Grease, petroleum based, will degrade the resins in the sail cloth and act as a magnet for dirt.

If you must lube your system then a dry lubricant that is not harmful to sails would be my choice. One option is https://www.mclubemarine.com/sailkote/.

We all have our favorite concoctions to keep our boat working at her prime. These thoughts are mine and are not meant to alter what your manufacturer recommends.

 

[JoeWhite]

Yes, flush with tap water. Grease attracts dust and increases friction.

 

[Ward H]

My Furlex does have notches marked for applying grease. As always, read your manual.

 

[Sailfanatic]

Just to cover the base, you should not ease the jib halyard before furling the jib, or you will experience the halyard wrap shown in the picture. If that has been a practic3e, that may be the only problem to address. You should release tension on the halyard after the sail is furled, and reset tension before subsequent un-furling the sail

 

[Two Sails]

Thanks! I just pulled everything down (in advance of now tropical storm Ida) and have the upper swivel down with the drum as I pulled the head sail down altogether. I’m going to use the opportunity to clean both the upper swivel and drum bearings, clean the jib sheets and furling line and reassemble. Will add the pendant.

 

[Two Sails]

Just to cover the base, you should not ease the jib halyard before furling the jib, or you will experience the halyard wrap shown in the picture. If that has been a practic3e, that may be the only problem to address. You should release tension on the halyard after the sail is furled, and reset tension before subsequent un-furling the sail

Not the general practice - no. I only did it to allow it to furl as it would not otherwise. I believe the halyard wrap was already there, causing the friction - I just didn’t notice it at the time.

 

[Two Sails]

Rised the jib another 8“ and added a pendant, closing the gap between the drum shackle and jib tack. So far, no more halyard wrap - knock on wood. Jib furling is now much easier. Thank you all for your input!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@Two Sails

As I keep looking back at the original photo, you may still have a problem. The black top plastic bearing affixed to the top of the furling extrusion is too near the mast and goes over the forestay stud.

First the black bearing is too close to the mast and will rub against the mast when turned by the jib sheets and/or furling line causing some difficulty when pulled

The second could be the top of the furling extrusion could be up or against the bottom of the forestay top stud. If so damage can occur and I have seen the damage a time or two of a mast failure due to a forestay break.

Suggest that be looked at with about 4-6 inches of the top extrusion being removed