Jib Halyard Question

[entmejia]

A PO completely removed the jib halyard on my 240. The manual doesn't show the halyard routing, and I can't seem to find any pictures either. With a CDI roller furling, it's not needed to raise the jib, but it would be handy and safer to use for mast raising instead of using the forestay. Can anyone explain how/where it is routed? Also, it's listed as being 70+ ft long, with two bare ends. If so, how does it attach to the gin pole loop? It seems you would need a shackle at one end. Thanks!

 

[BrianW]

You could use the spinnaker halyard for raising the mast. Yes, you need a shackle on the end you connect to the mast raising pole. That shackle needs to be larger than the mast halyard exit opening on the mast to keep it from slipping through. BrianW

 

[entmejia]

Thanks, but no spinnaker halyard either. The only thing exiting the mast are the shrouds, the topping lift cable and the forestay.

 

[twalker H260]

You should have two halyard exits at the top of the mast - one above and one below the forestay. The one above is for a spinnaker and the one below is for the jib. You can use rigid or flexible electricians snakes to run the line down to the halyard exit by the mast step. On the 260 the jib halyard exit is near the mast step on the port side. I believe it is similar on the 240.

You can also try tying a light ball of cloth or paper on a messenger line and then using a shop vac at the halyard exit opposite the one you put the messenger line into. This method doesn't always work but can make it easier in some cases.

Factory halyards have and shackle at the hoisting end to attach to the gin pole.

 

[jblersch]

Here are some photos I had of my 240 jib halyard (the red line) - maybe that will help.

 

[entmejia]

If I am visualizing this correctly, at one end there is a shackle that is typically attached to the jib head, from there, the line runs over the pulley below the forestay anchor point, through the interior of the mast and exists at the base of the mast. From there the line terminates in a plain end that can be cleated, hauled on to raise the jib, etc.... However, If I pull on the shackled end to raise the mast, what keeps the other end from pulling through the mast? If I cleat the loose end, and then pull on the shackled end, how would that raise the top of the mast? It would seem to just transmit the pulling force to the cleat.

 

[jblersch]

Yep, that's right. I keep the shackled end secured to the mast foot during the season since I only use it to raise and lower the mast. The mast-raising system is really pretty nifty - there are good instructions and diagrams in the manual I have. You can get the PDF here:

http://www.marlow-hunter.com/export/Owners-Manuals/240 260 Owner's Manual.pdf

With the mast down, you insert the gin pole into the hole at the base of the mast. Fasten the shackle end of the jib halyard to one eyelet of the gin pole. Then run your main sheet from the other eyelet of the gin pole to the anchor locker. Cleat off the other of end the jib halyard; I do it twice - once by my winch and then again at the stern just for safety. Then to raise the mast just heave-ho on your main sheet that has been attached to the anchor locker.

I don't know if Im explaining it very well - it's a nice system and relatively easy to use. hope that helps.

Jeff

 

[isaksp00]

Tie a stopper knot (figure 8) in the free end to ensure it doesn't get pulled into the mast.

 

[nola2172]

Per what jblersch said, when raising the mast, the jib needs to be tied down very tightly (we run ours through the sheet stopper and then also wrap it around a cleat). The mainsheet (connected to the other end of the gin pole and to the u-bolt in the anchor locker) is what does the moving. So, when you pull in the mainsheet, the distance between the anchor locker and top of the mast decreases, bringing the mast up, and when you let out the mainsheet, the distance increases, letting the mast down.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

First, Hunter always on the small boats the jib halyard designated as the red line. From the photos, I will comment on a few things.

First, I would take that shackle where it is attached on the mast step and move it backwards to the rear hole to help insure the jib halyard does not interfere with the furling jib. I would then leave it as pictured as to the routing.

Secondly, I would raise the sail on that CDI #2 furler further up. Then secure the base with a longer down haul if needed. This way, it gets the sail higher into the wind. Yes it does help. Secondly, it gets the jib higher away from the bow rail which helps to keep it from interfering with the jib.

as a former dealer who sold many 240's, this is the way I set up the boats for my customers and never once was there any issue.

As for the mast raising, insure the mast raise pole is seated all the way into the mast. Attach the jib halyard to the top loop at the other end of the pole. Raise it until the mast raise pole barely touches the top section of the hole in the mast and no more. Then attach the mainsheet with cam cleat down in the anchor locker. You have the mast side supports on the the 240 mast to keep it from going sideways when raising or lowering but on the 23.5, there are wires that have to be attached. Raise the mast and never put your hands on the middle of the mast raise pole or you will bend it and then the mast will fail or fall. When it is up and pinned to the hole on the rear of the chain plate, use your foot with shoe of course to release the cam cleat. Never use your hand or you could very well injure that hand as the line is under a lot of tension. In addition, if you have to leave the mast up partially during the raising or lowering to unstag lines or whatever, always hold onto that line in the event the cam cleat should fail or someone steps on the line releaseing it from the cam cleat. Bettery yet for security, tie if off .

 

[entmejia]

Thanks, lots of good info as usual. Hopefully it will cut down on the trial and error part, especially the error. Built and installed the new mast crutch today, will make the new gin pole this weekend out of schedule 40 aluminum pipe. Then on to some CDI repair and rigging by a rigger in Pensacola. Basically just trying to get everything as near to ideal as possible - and as easy to set up as possible.